??? Rack Mount Engine Bumper ???

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by occchopperfl, Jun 12, 2010.

  1. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member


    Any suggestions on how to fabricate an Aluminum Engine Bumper?

    (to protect the engine if bike tips over)

    Does anyone make it?

    (Ive seen one on a Hummer Bike on one of the forums)

    Thank you. :)

  2. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    Shouldn't he difficult. Post a pic of both sides of your rig, note the dimensions of the engine and the rack, and I'll post a dimensioned sketch.
  3. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

  4. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    Well, according to the dimensions given on that site, it is 9 1/8 inches (approx.) wide, by 10 inches long. So, a pair of angled out struts on each side from the mounting vertical supports would easily support a side bar on each side outside the engine footprint. Put a pair of horizontal stiffeners, one ahead of the engine and one behind it, and lock the "bumper" frame together, it ought to work just fine.

    The mounting plate in the photos looks to be about 12" long by 9" wide. To do any kind of finished drawing I'd need to have the dimensions of that plate, and the assembled width dimension of the kit on the bike.

    Here's a rough sketch of what I envisage. The one by one square tubing could be either aluminum or steel, whichever is easier for you. If I were doing it, I'd be tempted to pull those side tubes forward maybe 3 inches, and back about the same, and put pannier bag mounting clips on them.

    Attached Files:

  5. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member


    Nice Sketch!

    As soon as I get it, ill shoot pics, get dimensions and post it all.

    Can you post your updated pannier bag version? Sounds interesting!

    Thank you.
  6. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member


    Attached Files:

  7. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    By the way, I drew that quick and dirty, so the joints in the first sketch are simple miters, the second simple butt joints. Since I do not have a welder, and no longer even a brazing torch, if I were making one of those I'd actually use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to make my cuts, forming tabs to drill and bolt the individual pieces together into the frame. If you do that, dry fit it completely, make sure all of your bolt holes and hardware are aligned, then disassemble it, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, and use red loctite on final assembly, bolts tightened to about 10-15 pounds torque. Let it cure a day, and it isn't coming apart, I promise you that.