Rag clamp install

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by javelina1, Aug 13, 2009.

  1. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    anyone have a detailed picture, showing their rag clamp installation? I see in the picture sections, all the beautiful bike shots, but nothing close up on the rag clamp, showing details.

    From this shot, I can see how the spacer and the half moon backing plates are installed. My question is: http://www.thatsdax.com/INSTALL_INSTRUCTIONS.html

    How does the sprocket mount? congave up facing the outside? or congave in, facing the spokes?

    How do the 5 hole & 4 hole moon backing plates fit on the opposite side? spacer next to the spokes, then the moon backing plate, and then the sprocket? Or spacer next to the spokes, sprocket, and then the moon backing plate?



  2. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    there is no right way
    you face the sprocket the way that gives you a straight chain line and clears your tire or frame
    rubber (cut to fit on inside)
    5 hole & 4 hole moon backing plates
    nuts and washers
  3. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    thanks for the info.
  4. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    mbferret gave you good advice!

    Whatever gives the straightest chain line. You by no means want that chain comming off while you ride!
  5. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I have never got it on the first try...
    every wheel seems to be different, some dish in, some out
  6. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    makes sense, thanks for the help. I understand the whole chain line alignment. I did the old eyeball alignment, (before torqing down). and it looks like I need to go with the sprocket "bowl" facing in towards the spokes.

    I'm hoping to fire up this bad boy this weekend.
  7. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    The rag clamp install on my bike....

    Attached Files:

    • b5.jpg
      File size:
      29.2 KB
  8. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I have found that the spokes will be buried in the rubber when the bolts are tight enough not to shift...ie, the rubbers touch
    if too loose, can induce wobble, and can break spokes

    remember also, warnings from bill are from my own costly mistakes !!!
    I only know how to fix what I have broken (which is just about every part LOL):cool2:
  9. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    good info. I've got to add some loctite to these bolts tomorrow. They're torq'd down a little bit more than snug. The chain line is awesome at this point though. I can snug them up a little more.

    I do plan to pickup a #41 chain soon. Also, have picked up a Honda foam air filter, (oil soak), to cut a temp air filter with. Until I decide what I'm going to build for it long term. Hate running that motor in the AZ desert, with the OEM cleaner....

    so far, this China Girl is :punk:
  10. biken stins

    biken stins Member

    May as well zip tie your spokes .
  11. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    yep, did that (thanks). torque'd down the rag clamps with blue loctite too. Had a good 8 mile ride today. (will increase the length after break-in). :D
  12. javelina1

    javelina1 Member

    after torquing down the bolts, (so that the "rags" pinch the spokes and themselves together), I'm starting to get some chain rub on the rear tire. I'm running a 2.24" rear tire. Note, I only notice the chain rub when I let off the throttle, and begin braking. When the rear sprocket is under load, no rub).

    So I'm thinking of dumping the rear tire, and doing this:

    - go to Lowe's and buy the #41 chain. (the stock 415 just stretches like a mother anyways). So I want to swap the chain anyways....

    - head over to the local Performance Bike shop and pick up one of these for my new rear tire. (going from a 2.24 to 2.00"). http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1035155_-1_23000_20000_23014
  13. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I would go with more of a road profile
    the knobbies will feel squirley in a turn