Rag Joint Question

DistantWolrld101

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Aug 11, 2018
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389
I'm Having a durr moment, on a OCC Stingray 20" Chopper

i have the sprocket holes drilled so it can go through the small holes but my question is

1. does it go sprocket,Spacer,spokes,Spacer,metal plates or sprocket,spokes,Spacer,metalplates

2. also since i had to drill the holes bigger if it goes sprocket, Spacer,Spokes,Spacer,Metaplates am i able to cut the first one also to fit into all the holes?
 


JerboaJohn

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Jul 29, 2018
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1,272
U had it right - sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, plate...
why did you have to drill? couldn't fight the bolts thru everything? haha now you see why alignment and mounting is a pain with the stock setup.
as long as the mounting holes are equal size and distance, you'll be fine
 

DistantWolrld101

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Aug 11, 2018
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389
U had it right - sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, plate...
why did you have to drill? couldn't fight the bolts thru everything? haha now you see why alignment and mounting is a pain with the stock setup.
as long as the mounting holes are equal size and distance, you'll be fine

This is the sprocket not drilled and without the rubbers(drilled or cut to fit on)

they all tilt outwards and i can't make them point straight no matter how much i turn the sprocket or try to force them
Untitled.png
 
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DistantWolrld101

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Also i have 4 Rubbers/Spaccers because of multiple kits a pair of thick ones and a pair of thin ones should i use the thick ones or thin ones or mix match.

i would guess thick ones for more protection and because its a chopper and it helps with the offset so the chain don't rub on tire?
 

JerboaJohn

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ah I can see the dilemma. if you have a file or stone grinder bit, you can lengthen the holes outward 1/8". the rubber spacer is not truly balanced itself, but weighs not much so no worry if you extend the holes on it, but the sprocket needs care. find something or use a washer to give you something to trace a line the same distance at the outer of each hole the same. I say 1/8" bcs it's easy to get carried away and have 1 or couple farther out and that's a can of worms.
Or, if you can draw a bolt circle with radius you know will work, you can drill your own holes and cut the rubber
 

DistantWolrld101

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Aug 11, 2018
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ah I can see the dilemma. if you have a file or stone grinder bit, you can lengthen the holes outward 1/8". the rubber spacer is not truly balanced itself, but weighs not much so no worry if you extend the holes on it, but the sprocket needs care. find something or use a washer to give you something to trace a line the same distance at the outer of each hole the same. I say 1/8" bcs it's easy to get carried away and have 1 or couple farther out and that's a can of worms.
Or, if you can draw a bolt circle with radius you know will work, you can drill your own holes and cut the rubber

i was going to my hardware store with the bolt and everything have them use there drill press on it so i get a straight cut

i need a few american bolts and washers,nuts etc replaces the mounting studs on the back of engine, already did the front and intake.
 

LewieBike

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May 21, 2014
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That's a high flange hub, these sprockets don't work well with high flange hubs. The recommendation of filing into the hubs to get the bolts to pass squarely is not a great idea. You could weaken the hub where the spokes pass through and have the spoke pull through the cut in areas.

Let's take a look at the rear wheel on my bike...



A little hard to see but I drilled 4, 7/32" holes into the smallest diameter of the sprocket, because my bike uses old Schwinn LeTour high flange hubs which have 8 holes in the hub flange itself. I cut my rubber sprocket adapter rings into 8 separate pieces and directly mounted "1/4-20 bolts through the hub holes, skipping every other of the 8 holes. And after thread tapping the sprocket holes for 1/4"-20 bolts I mounted the bolts through the hub holes into the spocket. It's an analogy of a cush drive used on older Honda small motorcycles, it absorbs some of the torque and shock of the engine drive and also centers the sprocket tightly to the left side of the hub's bearing casting.

This is a very easy way to adapt an otherwise rag joint sprocket to a bike with a incompatible ( large spoke flange..) rear hubshell and it doesn't break spokes and is better at transferng power through all the spokes in the wheel.
 

DistantWolrld101

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Aug 11, 2018
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389
I got it to work it took a little bit of editing but i got it to work.

I dremeled the 44t sprocket holes 1/8th of a inch out then i cut both Rubber Spacers into 3 3 hole pieces then i put the bolts through the small holes and start on the left and right of the metal plate all the way around allowing me to insert the middle bolt then i went all around two more times till they where fully tighten.

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg
 
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