ok i got a cranbrook it has the brake you peddle backwards to stop with ok my problem is my rear hub wants to come loose or unbolt its self from the brake arm and drop bearing on the ground and i get wheel wobble from that from side to side it is like somebody loosins the bolts beside the the hub wher the chain fits on it always has a lot of space in it i wish i could explain it better than what i am anybody got a clue what im talking about respond please this is the third rim and rear end i've gone through.......
Brakes rear coaster brake hub keeps coming loose
- Thread starter wbuttry
- Start date
somewhere on this site told you can take the shoes out of the coaster brake and make it like a free wheel and it should stop the bolts on the brake arm from coming loose anybody no any truth to that rumor and if so could you elaberate more on it i dont understand the whole coaster brake thing and why my axle un screws its self from the rear end
motorpsycho
Active Member
If you take the brake shoes out, it will not be like a free wheel. it will act the same as it does with a coaster brake, it just won't stop.
You'll still be able to push the pedals backwards, and they will stop, but the rear wheel will not stop spinning....you will have no brakes at all.
To me, from what you described, it sounds like you don't have the bearings adjusted right.
There are 2 nuts that screw onto the axle (on the side with the sprocket). The innner nut is what the bearings ride against on the inside of the hub (cone). The outer nut acts like a jam nut. You tighten the inner nut to get the bearings adjusted right (not too tight, not too loose) and then you tighten the outer nut so it jams against the inner nut. You want to loosen the inner nut slightly and tighten the outer nut against it so they jam together. You have to do this in such a way so that your bearings are still adjusted right. This will keep the inner nut from coming loose. When/if you slide the axle assembly out of the hub, the brake arm and dust cover should stay connected to the axle. You only have to take off the 2 nuts on the side that has the sprocket to get the axle out.
I think what's happening is that the 2 nuts on your axle are not jammed together, so when you pedal backwards to stop, they want to loosen up.
Also, is your brake arm attached to the frame? If the brake arm is just floating there and not connected to anything, it will want to spin when you try to use the brake. If the brake arm spins when you try to brake, it will cause your axle to rotate backwards, which will loosen the 2 nuts on the sprocket side. Eventually they will loosen up enough for bearings to fall out.
You'll still be able to push the pedals backwards, and they will stop, but the rear wheel will not stop spinning....you will have no brakes at all.
To me, from what you described, it sounds like you don't have the bearings adjusted right.
There are 2 nuts that screw onto the axle (on the side with the sprocket). The innner nut is what the bearings ride against on the inside of the hub (cone). The outer nut acts like a jam nut. You tighten the inner nut to get the bearings adjusted right (not too tight, not too loose) and then you tighten the outer nut so it jams against the inner nut. You want to loosen the inner nut slightly and tighten the outer nut against it so they jam together. You have to do this in such a way so that your bearings are still adjusted right. This will keep the inner nut from coming loose. When/if you slide the axle assembly out of the hub, the brake arm and dust cover should stay connected to the axle. You only have to take off the 2 nuts on the side that has the sprocket to get the axle out.
I think what's happening is that the 2 nuts on your axle are not jammed together, so when you pedal backwards to stop, they want to loosen up.
Also, is your brake arm attached to the frame? If the brake arm is just floating there and not connected to anything, it will want to spin when you try to use the brake. If the brake arm spins when you try to brake, it will cause your axle to rotate backwards, which will loosen the 2 nuts on the sprocket side. Eventually they will loosen up enough for bearings to fall out.
so that would also let the rear end unthread even with no brakes correct and on the bearing mesh im not sure how to do it i did have the cone snugg and the jam nut tightened aginst it but it turned both nuts at the same time and the torque arm it is tied down with a bunge strap so it cant move maybe i didnt adjust it correctly when i took off the torque arm to put the sprocket on it i got it on and bent it around so it doesnt hit the bolts on the sprocket so that parts fine it just wants to un thread it's self where can i get a single speed free wheel 26 in rim with every thing in it so i dont have this problem with thick spokes.
gearhead222
Member
You migh try proper grammer n spelling it makes it much easier to understand and reply to if you know what I mean I guess that texting is trashing the english languish I have a Cranebrook also and I had my bike shop remove the races and add extra bearings to the rear wheel also had a machine shop rebend the coaster brake bracket so i could keep the coaster brake you can also add after market brakes to the front and rear wheels you really need them with a motoized bike thanx and i hope this helps gearhead222.
