Rear sprocket bolt torque
- Thread starter Ahmet
- Start date
Purple Haze
Active Member
In theory that would work, but in practice it won't, due to the spokes. You'll have to snug them up, then adjust as necessary to make the sprocket run true. Kinda like trueing a rim. The easy way out is to install a sprocket adaptor that clamps to the hub. Trueing a wheel is an art unto itself, practice, practice, and patience.
Ahmet
Member
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- Sep 23, 2019
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Oh, man!
DistantWolrld101
Well-Known Member
Here is something i learned to make it a bit easier,
if you have zip ties but the zip ties in the sprocket all around then tighten the sprocket down half way snug
remove the zip ties except top bottom left right and the four corners, then tighten again but allow the ability to still remove the zip ties
once it is tight enough but still remove the zip ties remove the ties
now look at the 4 areas where the ties where and check the difference in space(the gap difference) if one side has a bigger gap move it accordingly until ALL sides have the same gap difference then tighten down and as you tighten keep and eye on the gap distance
once the sprocket is tight and all the gap distance are the same i like to look at the 3 metal plates on the back and tighten them down till there flush with each other/flat with each other then i pick the tire up and spin it loosely in my hand to make sure the sprocket doesn't have a wobble if there is a wobble i check with a marker on the bike and tighten that spot and check again
Or get a sprocket adapter or a mag-wheel and save the hassle but i think you get the most fun out of learning :3
if you have zip ties but the zip ties in the sprocket all around then tighten the sprocket down half way snug
remove the zip ties except top bottom left right and the four corners, then tighten again but allow the ability to still remove the zip ties
once it is tight enough but still remove the zip ties remove the ties
now look at the 4 areas where the ties where and check the difference in space(the gap difference) if one side has a bigger gap move it accordingly until ALL sides have the same gap difference then tighten down and as you tighten keep and eye on the gap distance
once the sprocket is tight and all the gap distance are the same i like to look at the 3 metal plates on the back and tighten them down till there flush with each other/flat with each other then i pick the tire up and spin it loosely in my hand to make sure the sprocket doesn't have a wobble if there is a wobble i check with a marker on the bike and tighten that spot and check again
Or get a sprocket adapter or a mag-wheel and save the hassle but i think you get the most fun out of learning :3
LewieBike
Well-Known Member
As a bike mechanic I really think these sprockets are bad for wheels, especially if you're trying to make your bike go as fast as possible.
There is just not enough strength in a standard sized low flange stamped steel hub with cheap, chromed carbon steel 14 gauge spokes with the lack of proper tensioning.
These "rag-joint' sprocket mounts kill cheap wheels.
I've witnessed 5 different Walmart and Amazon purchased bikes with these sprockets attached to and all of them suffered broken spokes and poor wheel true after a couple weeks to a few month's use. The only way I could see these lasting is if the bikes were ridden very gently, not over 20 mph and not accelarated fast or started from a dead stop on the engine alone.
This is how I built my HT engined bike's rear wheel, and this is on a rather anemic 48cc engine that I run very gently....
There is just not enough strength in a standard sized low flange stamped steel hub with cheap, chromed carbon steel 14 gauge spokes with the lack of proper tensioning.
These "rag-joint' sprocket mounts kill cheap wheels.
I've witnessed 5 different Walmart and Amazon purchased bikes with these sprockets attached to and all of them suffered broken spokes and poor wheel true after a couple weeks to a few month's use. The only way I could see these lasting is if the bikes were ridden very gently, not over 20 mph and not accelarated fast or started from a dead stop on the engine alone.
This is how I built my HT engined bike's rear wheel, and this is on a rather anemic 48cc engine that I run very gently....
