Rear Wheel Hub Bearing heat

Do you have any picture from when you did the coaster brake?
Sadly no.
We'll see now, won't we? GW's motorized, this is a brand new bike that was cleaned and regreased at the bike shop using Park Hi Temp bearing grease. They replaced the crank bearings with a cassette set:) BTW, it would be interesting to see what other people say about rear coaster brake hub warmth. I've already priced a quality double wall rim at the shop, but it was completely stripped and would have required painting. Never checked the 49cc rear hub for heat, but it had over 1000 miles on it before it was stolen. I would have installed a rear brake, but there no gussetted hole in the rear cross tube like there was on my Canebrook Beach Cruiser-Gearhead437
If it was ran tight for any time it could have damaged bearings.
 
Just double checked today and ran both the cone nut and locknut on one side back about a flat. Definitely too loose, as I could hear the bearings sticking and unsticking to the grease. Turned back to the original adjustment. If these bearings crater, I will either buy a double wall rim or another hyper cruiser for parts. FWIW, and I know that this will stir the hornets nest up again, but I've ridden my 49cc Grubbee several times with the rear rim locked due to the chain getting seized between the drive sprocket and the case. I used to Windsurf when I was younger (and dirtbiked), so I have a pretty good sense of balance. I did wipe out once on my 49cc due to overinflating the tires and hitting oily pavement and scrubbed the road rash out myself afterwards. Put 4000 miles on a nice Honda ACE 750 motorcycle before selling it, although I always wore lots of protective gear. Still wear gloves and a helmet:) Ready for the wet noodles;)
 
Just double checked today and ran both the cone nut and locknut on one side back about a flat. Definitely too loose, as I could hear the bearings sticking and unsticking to the grease. Turned back to the original adjustment. If these bearings crater, I will either buy a double wall rim or another hyper cruiser for parts. FWIW, and I know that this will stir the hornets nest up again, but I've ridden my 49cc Grubbee several times with the rear rim locked due to the chain getting seized between the drive sprocket and the case. I used to Windsurf when I was younger (and dirtbiked), so I have a pretty good sense of balance. I did wipe out once on my 49cc due to overinflating the tires and hitting oily pavement and scrubbed the road rash out myself afterwards. Put 4000 miles on a nice Honda ACE 750 motorcycle before selling it, although I always wore lots of protective gear. Still wear gloves and a helmet:) Ready for the wet noodles;)
I don't care how good you think your sense of balance is; it won't help you any to stay up right. What will help is knowing how to roll when you go down. Speed is the biggest factor when taking a spill. Other important factors are road incline/decline, road curvature, road surface material, and current traffic/operator's reaction.

When a wheel locks up unexpectedly, you may only have ¹/¹°°° of a second to react. Here's a thread of when the rear axle on the LandRider broke. Fortunately I had just taken off and was only going 5 mph on a flat, straight paved road with no traffic on it. I didn't try to fight to stay upright, I tucked and rolled. All I got was some scrapes and bruises.

Thread 'Broken Rear Axle' https://motoredbikes.com/threads/broken-rear-axle.45015/

Others and I have repeatedly warned you of the dangers of coaster brakes. Just like we've warned many about fenders and irresponsible reckless riding on the public roadways; only to hear them later say they wished they'd listened to what we warned them about.

In your case unlike many others, money isn't an issue on building a safe ride. Which is hard to understand why you wouldn't want to build something safer.
 
"Tuck and Roll" is something that's learned from having many falls/accidents as a kid, skateboards and bicycles
I wouldn't know how to teach someone to "Tuck and Roll" in an accident -
except don't try and stop the fall with your hands, but just go with it.

Head first accident, an instinct hopefully will kick in making you turn your head and dip your shoulder. Sure you hit the ground hard, But the impact is minimized as your body momentum will roll
That's why it's called "Tuck and Roll"
 
"Tuck and Roll" is something that's learned from having many falls/accidents as a kid, skateboards and bicycles
I wouldn't know how to teach someone to "Tuck and Roll" in an accident -
except don't try and stop the fall with your hands, but just go with it.

Head first accident, an instinct hopefully will kick in making you turn your head and dip your shoulder. Sure you hit the ground hard, But the impact is minimized as your body momentum will roll
That's why it's called "Tuck and Roll"
You want to transition into a sideways roll; instead of a head to tail roll. This offers your head and spine the best protection.
 
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