Rear wheel resistance

SixFootPhife

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Hey all—

I’ve been losing my £#!%ing mind trying to get my rear sprocket aligned but I’m here now to ask about rear wheel resistance.

I took this video showing how (un)easily my rear wheel rolls once it’s connected to the engine. This vid is with the clutch all the way in.

Is this normal? Half of me thinks it is, half of me wants it to be abnormal so at least I’ll have a problem to deal with other than this rebellious sprocket.

Phife
 

motoredjosh

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grease the bearings, doesnt seem to bad to me, plus it takes time for bearings to break in or your axle lock nut is too tight
 

DieselTech

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Hey all—

I’ve been losing my £#!%ing mind trying to get my rear sprocket aligned but I’m here now to ask about rear wheel resistance.

I took this video showing how (un)easily my rear wheel rolls once it’s connected to the engine. This vid is with the clutch all the way in.

Is this normal? Half of me thinks it is, half of me wants it to be abnormal so at least I’ll have a problem to deal with other than this rebellious sprocket.

Phife
Looks fine to me. You got a little tiny bit of sprocket runout, I'd run it & break things in a bit.
 

SixFootPhife

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Looks fine to me. You got a little tiny bit of sprocket runout, I'd run it & break things in a bit.
What do you mean by sprocket runout? Everything’s broken in—first build was on a 700c bike, I wanted more torque so i swapped it to this cheapo cruiser but the engine/chain/et al have 5 or 6 tanks of running time on em
 

DieselTech

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What do you mean by sprocket runout? Everything’s broken in—first build was on a 700c bike, I wanted more torque so i swapped it to this cheapo cruiser but the engine/chain/et al have 5 or 6 tanks of running time on em
If you watch your video in slow motion, you can watch the top side of the chain start to slack down/get ever so slightly loose then, then the top of chain will straighten out as the wheel is being turned. Basically the sprocket is ever so slightly off center of your axle center line.
 

SixFootPhife

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If you watch your video in slow motion, you can watch the top side of the chain start to slack down/get ever so slightly loose then, then the top of chain will straighten out as the wheel is being turned. Basically the sprocket is ever so slightly off center of your axle center line.
Ah, yeah i know about that just didn’t know the term. That’s what I’ve been fighting with.

Didn’t have the issue on the old wheel, and i didn’t *think* i had the issue on this wheel but i took it out one day and i could feel the jerkiness/runout pretty much right away.

At this point I have completely removed the sprocket and reinstalled it probably 4 or 5 times trying to get it trued. I’ve tried tightening ever-so-slowly and constantly checking and even 3D printed a little alignment wheel to go over the axle and guide the sprocket.

I am a handy dude but i just can’t get it rolling smooth again and it’s driving me outta my mind!!

P.s. thanks your feedback tho lol
 

DAMIEN1307

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I am a handy dude but i just can’t get it rolling smooth again and it’s driving me outta my mind!!
Do a double check on your truing proceedures and see if they Jive with this tutorial on the correct installation of the rear sprocket...Thats the best I got for ya on this.

Place washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them so
the assembly is loosely held together with light pressure
on the spokes. All nuts need to have the same amount of
thread protruding.

Align sprocket and center hub so the gap is even all
round. Use a block of wood and a hammer against the
teeth to tap the sprocket into position, if necessary.
(Image right shows misaligned sprocket).

Tighten the nuts and bolts 2 full turns in a criss–cross or
star pattern and check the hub alignment again and
adjust if necessary Tighten the nuts and bolts another
full turn moving in a star fashion across the sprocket.

Repeat this process twice more, checking the alignment
as you go. The nuts should now be tight enough to hold
the sprocket firmly against the spokes but have some
flexing in the drive direction.

Spin the wheel and check that the sprocket runs true. Run out of more than 1.5mm may cause the chain to bind
and even jam or jump off the sprocket. Correct any side-to-side wobble by tightening the nuts where the
sprocket is further from the spokes to pull the sprocket back into alignment, and slacken the nuts on the
opposite side a fraction, if necessary. If there is a gap between the two rubbers, tighten all the nuts evenly,
until the rubbers are just touching. NOTE: Do not over tighten the nuts, the rubbers give some degree of
shock absorption, so If over-tight this will not happen. If there is still some run-out, use a large shifting
spanner to bend the section of sprocket giving trouble. You do not need to use much force to do this.

Place the wheel in the bike frame and install it as indicated in the bicycle instruction manual. At this time leave
the axle retaining nuts finger tight, they will be tightened later when the drive chain alignment is set. Check the
wheel and sprocket run true and adjust if necessary. Make any further adjustments as necessary.
 

DieselTech

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Ah, yeah i know about that just didn’t know the term. That’s what I’ve been fighting with.

Didn’t have the issue on the old wheel, and i didn’t *think* i had the issue on this wheel but i took it out one day and i could feel the jerkiness/runout pretty much right away.

At this point I have completely removed the sprocket and reinstalled it probably 4 or 5 times trying to get it trued. I’ve tried tightening ever-so-slowly and constantly checking and even 3D printed a little alignment wheel to go over the axle and guide the sprocket.

I am a handy dude but i just can’t get it rolling smooth again and it’s driving me outta my mind!!

P.s. thanks your feedback tho lol
Is the center hole in the sprocket true? Like maybe the center hole got punched/cutout offcenter from the factory.
 

noah9988

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That's about how much resistance mine has. I wouldn't worry about it, just make sure everything stays lubed up.
 
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