Red Clutch Pads



crassius

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Jul 23, 2012
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those are usually said to be better than the black ones (at least there are no fine metal wires to screw up the hub bearings) - if one doesn't trim them to fit the holes nicely, they can make debris all over inside of clutch housing
 

DuctTapedGoat

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those are usually said to be better than the black ones (at least there are no fine metal wires to screw up the hub bearings) - if one doesn't trim them to fit the holes nicely, they can make debris all over inside of clutch housing
Well I dropped them in.
Had to reshape slightly, however it's not helping my slipping clutch.

I mean, it's a little better but it's still slipping when I start or accelerate quickly. I got the flower nut tight as hell, tighter than I even want it and the cable with plenty of slack to drop the plate entirely and it's still slipping...

It'll fire eventually, so I can get around for a few days but I am not digging it not cranking over immediately.
 
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Frankenstein

In memory of Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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Jun 24, 2016
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Well I dropped them in.
Had to reshape slightly, however it's not helping my slipping clutch.

I mean, it's a little better but it's still slipping when I start or accelerate quickly. I got the flower nut tight as hell, tighter than I even want it and the cable with plenty of slack to drop the plate entirely and it's still happening.
They are new, you might even have a slight amount of lube on the plates, mine required 3 adjustments over a week while the pads seated.

Just slip the crap out of them a few times, then adjust the flower nut again. Repeat (with actual riding time between) until you have a well adjusted clutch.

Are you sure your flower nut moves far enough out when squeezing the lever? If the clutch arm for whatever reason fails to push it out enough then you won't get enough pressure behind the clutch when the lever is released. This can occur if the clutch arm slips on its post (not a common thing buy happens) or if the clutch post is worn down where it meets the bucking bar, I've had that happen specifically to me once and it makes adjusting the clutch correctly impossible.

Actually the slip from being unable to adjust caused me to meticulously remove the clutch and all the pads and buy new pads to try to solve my problem. The real solution was taking a clutch cover and arm from an old motor.
 

gary55

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Nov 27, 2012
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3,956
Well I dropped them in.
Had to reshape slightly, however it's not helping my slipping clutch.

I mean, it's a little better but it's still slipping when I start or accelerate quickly. I got the flower nut tight as hell, tighter than I even want it and the cable with plenty of slack to drop the plate entirely and it's still slipping...

It'll fire eventually, so I can get around for a few days but I am not digging it not cranking over immediately.
Sounds like you have done all you can to get the most grab from the spring. I would spray the livin crap out of the assembly with carb or brake cleaner, put a drop or two of lite chain lube on the bearings, grease the gear, and see if this got rid of any contamination on the plates. I'd go through the whole schpell of wiping off any excess oil or grease, but I'm sure with as much work you do to your bike you know that. By the way did this slipping start after you changed to the thinner head gasket?
 

DuctTapedGoat

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Sounds like you have done all you can to get the most grab from the spring. I would spray the livin crap out of the assembly with carb or brake cleaner, put a drop or two of lite chain lube on the bearings, grease the gear, and see if this got rid of any contamination on the plates. I'd go through the whole schpell of wiping off any excess oil or grease, but I'm sure with as much work you do to your bike you know that. By the way did this slipping start after you changed to the thinner head gasket?
They are new, you might even have a slight amount of lube on the plates, mine required 3 adjustments over a week while the pads seated.

Just slip the crap out of them a few times, then adjust the flower nut again. Repeat (with actual riding time between) until you have a well adjusted clutch.

Are you sure your flower nut moves far enough out when squeezing the lever? If the clutch arm for whatever reason fails to push it out enough then you won't get enough pressure behind the clutch when the lever is released. This can occur if the clutch arm slips on its post (not a common thing buy happens) or if the clutch post is worn down where it meets the bucking bar, I've had that happen specifically to me once and it makes adjusting the clutch correctly impossible.

Actually the slip from being unable to adjust caused me to meticulously remove the clutch and all the pads and buy new pads to try to solve my problem. The real solution was taking a clutch cover and arm from an old motor.
Alright so everything I have heard suggests brake cleaner, once it stops raining I'm headed to AutoZone. I dunno what else to get while I'm there yet.

Well a lot has happened today. I did a light buff on top and where the pads ride when I changed them out. It mellows out once I'm moving but it's just slick. It's gotta be some grease in a pocket back there. I slipped it once during a red light on a 10 mile ride, it's burning out internal clutch flavored donuts just to get moving.

I haven't got the head gasket yet, I think it was sanding the head and Arctic Silver, now it is so tight and compressing correctly causing my clutch to actually work harder. It must've been leaking like a stuck pig. I want that power back in the system, I was gonna pop the plate and clean from there, but I'll try and get it from the surface with brake cleaner first.

I buy a new engine every year because I Engine Brake on my coaster brake bike, so my clutch pads get double use time and the engine wear is increased dramatically. It's that or my boots, and those are 100$ every 6 months. I drive in L.A, brakes are too important not to use and safety is too important to ignore. Red lights, people in cars, pedestrian crosswalks, gotta keep up sonewhere. I don't even idle most red lights, which is why the clutch is kinda new priority with interesting causes and variables.

I did not know about the arm, I only ever had pin issues, if I pull the plate and clean I will swap the arm and cover too to be thorough. It might be my spring on the 3rd bolt even, it's been gapped that way with no issues which means I need a new spring and have to mess with the cover anyways.

I'm gonna get carb cleaner for spotting leaks on time at AutoZone too, that warped head cost at least 2$ worth of Arctic Silver on the first test, carb cleaner is way cheaper.
 

FurryOnTheInside

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Sep 23, 2013
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I have to say the comments about the minimal separation causing less clutch pressure seem backwards, to me. Surely having the flower nut adjusted to give very minimal separation actually increases the pressure (slightly)?
The other, main way to increase the pressure on the pads is to increase the clutch spring preload by adjusting the clutch spring preload nut. It's in the hole under the cable stop (where you can also add some grease if necessary). Unscrew the flower nut to relieve the pressure, then unscrew the cable stop and use a flat screwdriver in the hole to turn the preload nut, pushing it around.. forward, I think.
 

Street Ryderz

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Oct 14, 2016
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3,564
I have to say the comments about the minimal separation causing less clutch pressure seem backwards, to me. Surely having the flower nut adjusted to give very minimal separation actually increases the pressure (slightly)?
The other, main way to increase the pressure on the pads is to increase the clutch spring preload by adjusting the clutch spring preload nut. It's in the hole under the cable stop (where you can also add some grease if necessary). Unscrew the flower nut to relieve the pressure, then unscrew the cable stop and use a flat screwdriver in the hole to turn the preload nut, pushing it around.. forward, I think.
It does add pressure to the outer plate!And you dont need to take the flower nut off or even losen it all you need to do is disconect the clutch cable,remove the cable lug from the case insert a thick flat screw driver in to the notch in adjuster and roll the bike forward until the desired tension is obtained!
 

DuctTapedGoat

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Dec 10, 2010
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So brake cleaner definitely cleaned behind there - cleaned my pads and plate too, still it's maxed out tight and keeps slippin.

I made plates out of raw fibrous clutch material once, and I think I will again. This material just glazes.

Next is to check the 3 bolt plate.
 
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