Red Clutch Pads

All over the concrete.

As far as any actual leaking, none it's sealed up well. Had a cracked tank a couple months ago, new one is fine.

I'm gonna have to buy a 1\4" sheet of some high friction.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#clutch-lining/=17j2m58

But before I do that I am gonna check my woodruff key... even though I can see the plate spinning and when I check the pucks they are glazed smooth. What can cause such a loss in spring pressure? The small cog key maybe idfk.
 
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I have to say the comments about the minimal separation causing less clutch pressure seem backwards, to me. Surely having the flower nut adjusted to give very minimal separation actually increases the pressure (slightly)?
The other, main way to increase the pressure on the pads is to increase the clutch spring preload by adjusting the clutch spring preload nut. It's in the hole under the cable stop (where you can also add some grease if necessary). Unscrew the flower nut to relieve the pressure, then unscrew the cable stop and use a flat screwdriver in the hole to turn the preload nut, pushing it around.. forward, I think.

I'm pretty sure I set it correctly - took the spring off my 3rd bolt and sealed that 3 bolt panel back normal, issue remains.
 
the red ones suck compared to the black ones. if you're making any real power you need to throw away any stock clutch pads and make your own.
 
the red ones suck compared to the black ones. if you're making any real power you need to throw away any stock clutch pads and make your own.

I realized my pads were burned up and glazed and starting to slip a couple weeks ago, figured hi-temp would be an upgrade but they aren't grippy at all. Gonna drive slippin until some stock black pads arrive.

I hope nothing else is wrong, if I move my flower nut 1 more notch it's gonna be locked solid. My motor isn't super powerful, but it works hard.
30t, 24", 41mph

Last time I made clutch pads I used this, unless there is a more affordable material.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#clutch-lining/=17j2m58

I buffed the plate with a 3 stage sanding. 80 grit 220 grit 2000 grit, that's just what I have always had around and it has increased grippiness - I certainly intend to get my clutch operating maximum potential faster than the pads can seat.

My first thought is how quickly can I upgrade that internal spring, or is there any premade lower ends around, I like to follow the broken in process with upgrades as it breaks and breaks in.

Tuning notes change depending on the angle of the sun and what's been done.
 
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I just had an interesting thought.

What can handle a high heat, high pressure, constant friction environment?

My mind went first to weed. A weed clutch would be awesome. it'd Waste a quarter ounce, but that'd be fun to burn up.

But then I thought solid gold, that'd theoretically work... but gemstones. That WOULD work.

Diamonds would be preferred.
Quartz is in my budget.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/166926629/25-pcs-each-size-2-mm-3-mm-4-mm-round?
il_570xN.1132802506_1gvw.jpg


I am gonna seat gems in my old pads and try it out on payday
 
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........My mind went first to weed. A weed clutch would be awesome......

Now your previous reply to my reply makes more sense. ;) Haha ;)

Have you increased the clutch pressure via main clutch spring preload by turning the preload nut?
It has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the three bolt panel that holds your clutch cam!

It is coloured dark grey here (same as the main spring) and is on the right hand end of the main spring, immediately inside the right hand bearing.

images (5).jpg


This is where all the clutch pressure comes from.

_20170509_211217.JPG
 
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Now your previous reply to my reply makes more sense. ;) Haha ;)

Have you increased the clutch pressure via main clutch spring preload by turning the preload nut?
It has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the three bolt panel that holds your clutch cam!

It is coloured dark grey here (same as the main spring) and is on the right hand end of the main spring, immediately inside the right hand bearing.

View attachment 76715
I havent - everything in that pic is gray lol

Clutch preload nut is which one?

behind the clutch ring or inside it or the nut behind the flower nut and plate?
 
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I havent - everything in that pic is gray lol

Clutch preload nut is which one?

behind the clutch ring or inside it
I have cropped the diagram to point it out better. Sorry I can't edit photos any better than that on my phone. You can take the cable stop out of the crankcase and insert a flat head screwdriver down the hole to hold the nut still while you push the bike forwards, or backwards. (I thought you would push the bike backwards but you'll find out anyway when you do it.)
 
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