DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Just got my order of red hi-temp racing clutch pads.
Installing and testing tomorrow.
those are usually said to be better than the black ones (at least there are no fine metal wires to screw up the hub bearings) - if one doesn't trim them to fit the holes nicely, they can make debris all over inside of clutch housing
They are new, you might even have a slight amount of lube on the plates, mine required 3 adjustments over a week while the pads seated.Well I dropped them in.
Had to reshape slightly, however it's not helping my slipping clutch.
I mean, it's a little better but it's still slipping when I start or accelerate quickly. I got the flower nut tight as hell, tighter than I even want it and the cable with plenty of slack to drop the plate entirely and it's still happening.
Sounds like you have done all you can to get the most grab from the spring. I would spray the livin crap out of the assembly with carb or brake cleaner, put a drop or two of lite chain lube on the bearings, grease the gear, and see if this got rid of any contamination on the plates. I'd go through the whole schpell of wiping off any excess oil or grease, but I'm sure with as much work you do to your bike you know that. By the way did this slipping start after you changed to the thinner head gasket?Well I dropped them in.
Had to reshape slightly, however it's not helping my slipping clutch.
I mean, it's a little better but it's still slipping when I start or accelerate quickly. I got the flower nut tight as hell, tighter than I even want it and the cable with plenty of slack to drop the plate entirely and it's still slipping...
It'll fire eventually, so I can get around for a few days but I am not digging it not cranking over immediately.
Sounds like you have done all you can to get the most grab from the spring. I would spray the livin crap out of the assembly with carb or brake cleaner, put a drop or two of lite chain lube on the bearings, grease the gear, and see if this got rid of any contamination on the plates. I'd go through the whole schpell of wiping off any excess oil or grease, but I'm sure with as much work you do to your bike you know that. By the way did this slipping start after you changed to the thinner head gasket?
They are new, you might even have a slight amount of lube on the plates, mine required 3 adjustments over a week while the pads seated.
Just slip the crap out of them a few times, then adjust the flower nut again. Repeat (with actual riding time between) until you have a well adjusted clutch.
Are you sure your flower nut moves far enough out when squeezing the lever? If the clutch arm for whatever reason fails to push it out enough then you won't get enough pressure behind the clutch when the lever is released. This can occur if the clutch arm slips on its post (not a common thing buy happens) or if the clutch post is worn down where it meets the bucking bar, I've had that happen specifically to me once and it makes adjusting the clutch correctly impossible.
Actually the slip from being unable to adjust caused me to meticulously remove the clutch and all the pads and buy new pads to try to solve my problem. The real solution was taking a clutch cover and arm from an old motor.
It does add pressure to the outer plate!And you dont need to take the flower nut off or even losen it all you need to do is disconect the clutch cable,remove the cable lug from the case insert a thick flat screw driver in to the notch in adjuster and roll the bike forward until the desired tension is obtained!I have to say the comments about the minimal separation causing less clutch pressure seem backwards, to me. Surely having the flower nut adjusted to give very minimal separation actually increases the pressure (slightly)?
The other, main way to increase the pressure on the pads is to increase the clutch spring preload by adjusting the clutch spring preload nut. It's in the hole under the cable stop (where you can also add some grease if necessary). Unscrew the flower nut to relieve the pressure, then unscrew the cable stop and use a flat screwdriver in the hole to turn the preload nut, pushing it around.. forward, I think.