Wheels Redoing wheels...

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by PhoobarID, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    I went ahead and ordered the HD Freewheel hub and Sturmey-Archer Front Drum hub when the local bike shop told it it would be anywhere from $25-$40 to relace my wheels. After waiting a week...they finally got back to me and said because they have to buy new spokes and do the labor...the cost is going to be anywhere from $150-300 dollars for both of them with no time frame to get the work done.

    I'm almost tempted to go pick up my parts and learn to do it myself...but would like to have the bike on the road before I hit retirement. I could have spent less than this ordering the wheels complete...but thought the savings going local would be worth it. Now...I feel like I'm being taken for a ride...but don't know anyone locally or online I would trust to be able to do the job right without spending more than what I could have bought them complete online.

    Any suggestions are more than welcome.

  2. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    My suggestion is to wait until you get the hub, then do the calculations for spoke length yourself. Once you figure the length out, I'd order 13 gauge spokes from www.holmeshobbies.com since most bicycle shops can't get anything thicker than 14 gauge. Once you get them, look at an example wheel and lace them up yourself... definitely making sure to start with the valve hole in the rim. Just tighten the nipples down until the threads of the spokes are hidden by the nipples. From that point, turn half a turn all the way around.... remembering where you started!! Eventually, one of the full revolutions around... you'll decide that it's tight enough. Just compare the tension at the intersection of two spokes to the same point on an already complete rim.

    It's really not too difficult, particularly with an example rim to follow if you're using the same 3-cross pattern or whatever. And if you can't get it perfectly true, I'm sure they wouldn't charge more than $20 to true the wheel. Lacing the wheel is what costs so much because it's so time consuming for 36+ spokes.

    Do It Yourself!!! It's worth your time.
  3. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    That's the one thing I have had for a month. Ordered the hubs long before I was able to get the wheel into the store.

    I've got a buddy of mine who has done this before...so will have him help me get the drum brake set up for me. Personally...want to use 12 ga or bigger...since I like the extra measure of safety.

    Having looked on the site you mentioned...couldn't figure out what to order...but they did have a good selection at a decent price.

    Can you give me info for the spokes/nipples I would need from this info:

    Sturmey-Archer X-FD front hub.

    Aluminum alloy Hub shell with 70mm drum brake
    Cartridge bearings and internal brake shoes for consistent all weather performance
    70mm drum brake
    Includes cable and mounting hardware

    Item Specifications
    Color Silver
    Weight 770g
    Intended Use Road
    Hub Drilling 36spokes
    Hub/Brake Compatibility Drum
    Front Wheel Type Road
    Front Hub Spacing 100mm
    Front Axle Type 9x1
    Skewer Included NA, Bolt-On
    Defined Color Silver
    Product Dimensions: 8.2 x 4.6 x 4.5 inches ; 2.5 pounds

    Any info you can provide would be appreciated.
  4. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    There are calculators that do that stuff for you. I'll leave that bit up to you to research, because if I suggest one and it doesn't work out perfectly for you... I don't want to take the blame. Use multiple spoke calculators if you need to. I don't know if I'd remember the one I used or not. If you need help identifying exactly how a variable should be measured, then ask. For example... flange diameter and hub width are measured from center of spoke hole to center of opposing spoke hole (if looking down the axle) and from center of hub to center of flange. You'll get the hang of it. Measuring the ERD is perhaps the most difficult part, and I would most definitely *NOT* use the manufacturer's ERD, particularly if it's a Sun rim. Those jokers were off by about 6 cm on a 700c wheel, if I remember correctly. Just measure from inside of rim to inside of rim on the opposing side.

    And the reason that I suggested 13g spokes is because you'll have to drill wider holes in the hub & rim for anything larger than that. Heck, you could possibly have to drill for 13g spokes, but I doubt it. That's typically the limit... yet bike shops can't even get 13g spokes.
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2012
  5. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    One more tip is to make sure that the axle actually fits the frame you're working with.

    That's a biggy!!!
  6. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    I had no idea there was any sort of calculator for finding the spoke size. Feel more than happy to send me URL's and I'll get them going.

    That does make sense...especially when you mentioned it. Never knew this was how it was done.

    I got 12 gauge spokes originally due to my size and never had any problems with them. Will 13 gauge serve me just as well on the front wheel?
  7. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Checked the hub when I got it on the forks I'm using on the Jag.
  8. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

  9. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    HOT DOG!!! Thank you for the sites. Will be giving them a look this evening.
  10. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    If you want to PM Me your e-mail address I can mail you a copy of a wheelbuilding book, I cant for some reason attach it to a PM (maybe its too much data)
  11. MotoMagz

    MotoMagz Member

  12. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    That was pretty good. Will be looking at all these calculators more in depth as soon as I come off of lay off from work within the next week or so.
  13. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Wanted to let everyone know I just got back BOTH wheels done from the bike shop. They were able to use my steel rims/12 ga spokes/nipples without needing to get any other parts. Total cost $80 for labor.

    Means tomorrow...will be getting it all put together and praying that everything works better than it has in the past several years.