Reed valve with extended intake

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Just made a payment to Rock Solid for the thermal spacer. Tomorrow I will order the weber carb and reed valve, jajuars cdi, a pull start and a centrifugal clutch from JNM. I want to ask them if their chain tensioner will work for the right side tensioner since SBP still doesn't have their tensioner for the right side listed and I want to get the order out.
Fabian if I put the pull start and the centrifugal clutch on do I need to get a longer bottom bracket cartridge? If so do you know what size?
Also can I just get the 9 tooth sproket and the 48 tooth to get better low end power? I have not been on a bike in over 45 years and I do not really understand all you were talking about and I am rapidly running out of money.
 
Fabian if I put the pull start and the centrifugal clutch on do I need to get a longer bottom bracket cartridge? If so do you know what size?

You "may" have to get a wider bottom bracket cartridge, depending on the size of your bicycle frame. Best to order the longer version if your bike frame has a seat post length less than 21 inches.

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=107&osCsid=8af9222p1sruubhl7l60gvbjg6



SBP still doesn't have their tensioner for the right side listed

SickBikeParts should now have the right hand side chain tensioner in stock, even though it's not listed on the website. Be sure to ask Paul or Jim about it when placing your order.



Also can I just get the 9 tooth sprocket and the 48 tooth to get better low end power?

Yes, that gearing option will give you much better low end pulling power, but it is advisable (at least from my experience) to do this basic modification because the engine will try to twist more in the bicycle frame:

http://motorizedbikeforum.the-talk.net/t353-additional-stability-for-the-sick-bike-parts-shift-kit

You can order the 9 tooth as a replacement for the 10 tooth sprocket (a straight swap as i understand it) but the 48 tooth sprocket needs to be ordered as an accessory item, over the 44 tooth sprocket that comes with the shift kit.
 
Thank you Fabian, I will ask SBP tomorrow about the chain tensioner. I will do The mod to stop the twist. I am looking forward to getting started, I think this is going to be an enjoyable project and I feel I will have a top of the line bike to use in the mountains.
The way you have documented your work and made it available is greatly appreciated.
I'm sure I will have more questions for you once I get down to working on it.
 
Well we now have it up on the site although I need to pick up some hardware tomorrow to finish the kits up. The installation instructions are also available on our download page. IMG_0066.jpg
 
I will do The mod to stop the twist.

I must add that you need to get rubber that is very hard, because a considerable amount of twisting force will be placed on it. In my case i purchased rubber that was harder than Germaine Greer's heart and after 12 months of use the rubber has compressed by over 1mm, where it contacts the seat post tube.

A side benefit of packing out the gap between jackshaft and the left side of the seat post tube is that you won't have runout issues on the Right Hand Side Chain Tensioner (caused by engine-jackshaft twisting forces) thereby keeping the chain tenioner arms in perfect alignment with the chain and 48 tooth sprocket.
 
I think this is going to be an enjoyable project and I feel I will have a top of the line bike to use in the mountains.

With the right mods you will have a bike that is terrifically enjoyable to ride and also a bike that is reliable, should you wish to do longer journeys.

The first time you climb a hill or gradient that looks murderously steep; something you could "never", "ever" pedal up, you'll be giggling yourself silly, in fact you'll have a smile on your face so abnormally big that it will need to be surgically removed.
 
Thank you Fabian, I am really excited to get the parts and get this going. I am not even going to think about the expense because to be able to have mobility in the woods that because of my rheumatoid arthritis I would not be able to get to, I will now be able to travel forest service roads even ones closed to car traffic or tracks I would not take my two wheel jeep down.
 
I am not even going to think about the expense.

Don't worry about passing the expense through your own mind.
What you really have to worry about, is that your wife/partner doesn't get to see the expense, because, should it happen, you will have to make a decision: the wife or the bike.

In my case i chose the bike every time: it gives me more enjoyment and it get to ride it the way i like to ride it: full throttle in every gear for extended periods; sometimes on a daily basis. Try doing that with your partner...


I will now be able to travel forest service roads even ones closed to car traffic or tracks I would not take my two wheel jeep down.

If you like the woods, the shift kit with high and low range gearing will give you access to some wonderful scenery and trails, escpecially those trails with murderously steep inclines like this:

http://motorizedbikeforum.the-talk.net/t384-mt-dandenong-fire-access-trail-september-2013

http://motorizedbikeforum.the-talk.net/t380-lake-mountain-snow-adventure-august-2013

http://motorizedbikeforum.the-talk.net/t208-hill-climb-with-bob-ibex-trailer
 
Fabian, am I right in thinking that the 10:17, 9:48 shift kit gearing you're using gives you an engine RPM of 3626 RPM = 100 RPM at the pedals, or did I mess up somewhere in my calculations?

I think I'll be getting one of the SBP spiders and using a 53 (or 54 if I can get one used/cheap) road bicycle chainring, when (not IF!) I finish saving up for my build, as I would like to pedal comfortably while the motor runs at 3800-4100 RPM (according to the calculation I did, you'd need to pedal at 105 RPM to put any human power through the drivetrain (catch up with the freewheel) at 3800, and 114 RPM at 4100 using the 9:48 shift kit ratio)
 
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