Reliability - Mitsubishi TLE43

One other possibility is the screen in (before?) the muffler clogging. I took mine out. I'd check the plug first.
 
Need some help PLEASE I was running my mitisu tle 43cc motor yesterday 3-12-11 and it was running fine but then it started bogging down and stopped running.I got it to start up again ran it about 20 yards and stopped again. The mix gas i think calls for 40:1 ratio??? im running 50:1 mix could this have been why it quit running. I'm brand new to these motors and my staton friction drive kit on my bike,I really like this set up but need some help on what to do now PLEASE HELP thanks Panther.

I had that exact problem with my brand new Mits TLE43. The problem is that the fuel tank's cap is not venting. When the engine dies again, simply loosen the gas cap. The engine will easily start and keep running with the loose gas cap. Then fix or replace the cap, or add another vent.
 
I have had that same problem on and off with my Mitsu 43 also. One thing to check is to make sure the fuel cap is properly vented....it must be for the engine to stay running. I haven't had the problem since I did that (it was a replacement fuel cap). Try that and post back. Mine only did it under load....will yours not start even to idle?

Warner
 
:unsure:In reference to Alaskvan's remark about friction drive being useless in the wet, I agree
completely if your using a standard diamond check roller. Being in the NW it's wet as
often as not, but undaunted, I've come up with a simple way to greatly increase
roller grip. Take a dremel with a diamond wheel* and cut counter-spiraling grooves
3/32" deep into your old roller so as to make larger diamonds around the smaller
checks as shone below. I've accented the grooves with a sharpie to make them more
clear. This really works well to give an old roller far more grip than it had new.

*( You can get diamond wheels & lots of other cool dremel stuff cheap at:
widgetsupply.com.)
 

Attachments

  • Picture 018.jpg
    Picture 018.jpg
    166.2 KB · Views: 295
Friction coefficients are dependent on contact patch area, by removing material you reduce the contact patch and there's no logic in believing an increase of friction will result.
You can groove, slot, slice or dice and little is gained, the real culprit is the material incompatibility of steel on wet rubber.
 
Richard,
what grips better, teeth or gums? If what you say is true, why aren't we all driving
on slick tires.? or using slick rollers for that matter, Hmm?
My roller operates on the same principle as a traction tire.
 
Last edited:
Apples and oranges. The myth of comparing car tires vs bikes tires has been dismissed repeatedly. http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html The deflection profile on a general use auto tire creates a wide, square contact patch, etc etc. Why do drag racers and formula cars run slicks?

The problem is the compatibility of the mating surfaces. Why steel bicycle wheels have reduced rim braking in wet weather, why one can squirt a spray of water under a handlebar grip to get it to slid off or why diagonal railroad crossings or steel manhole covers can be treacherous. Manhole covers all have etchings, btw.

Whatever, I'll stick with physics.Want friction in wet conditions, try a stone aggregate roller.
 
Yada yada yada,
The simple fact is it grips the tire far better than a conventional roller. Try
it if you don't believe me, smart@$$.
 
P.S. I've gone the aggregate route; this is much better. Oh, and I'd like to retract
my remark and apologize for calling you a smart@$$. Nothing could be further
from the truth. Doubtless, you probably have a degree or two in science. Bet you
teach somewhere. You likely have someone else change your car's oil, and....
obviously, you've never used a pipe wrench in your life or you would know what a tremendous
amount of friction one generates while contacting less than 10% of the surface acted
upon.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top