Remove bearings from Mag Wheel?

[Risk Man]

After finally getting the CDH mag wheels on the bike this weekend with the challenge lining up the back disc and drive sprocket, after a 4 mile, 30 MPH ride I noticed the front wheel axle had some play in it. When I took it off last night and checked out the axle, it would turn most of the way around (I could not tell the bearing bushing was not turning but the axel was turning inside the bearing) it would stick and I could with pressure advance it. I knew something was not right and the jam nuts were not too tight.

Took the axel out tonight and the bearing is frozen. I took the dust cover off and tried to move the bearing ring and it is fused to the bushing and the collar in the race. I took a center punch and with light tapping with a wooden mallet, I can advance it every so much but the center bushing is turning with it..... frozen I guess.

So to the point (sorry if I pontificate!) what is the best method (no bearing pulling tools in my wood shop and limited mechanical tool chest) to take the bearings out without damaging the hub? The good news is the new axle set they sent me had a new set of bearings I can put back in.

Thanks for the help as always.

 

[Karl Snarl]

After finally getting the CDH mag wheels on the bike this weekend with the challenge lining up the back disc and drive sprocket, after a 4 mile, 30 MPH ride I noticed the front wheel axle had some play in it. When I took it off last night and checked out the axle, it would turn most of the way around (I could not tell the bearing bushing was not turning but the axel was turning inside the bearing) it would stick and I could with pressure advance it. I knew something was not right and the jam nuts were not too tight.

Took the axel out tonight and the bearing is frozen. I took the dust cover off and tried to move the bearing ring and it is fused to the bushing and the collar in the race. I took a center punch and with light tapping with a wooden mallet, I can advance it every so much but the center bushing is turning with it..... frozen I guess.

So to the point (sorry if I pontificate!) what is the best method (no bearing pulling tools in my wood shop and limited mechanical tool chest) to take the bearings out without damaging the hub? The good news is the new axle set they sent me had a new set of bearings I can put back in.

Thanks for the help as always.

Dremel, small cutt-off wheel and a little whiskey to calm the hands.

oh and a flat blade to pry the cuts open to finish it with a crack off.

 

[Risk Man]

Dremel, small cutt-off wheel and a little whiskey to calm the hands.

oh and a flat blade to pry the cuts open to finish it with a crack off.

Not sure if you are serious or being "Karl"? CDH just replied and said not to try and remove them my self but take to a bike shop as the wheel is easily damaged as they were installed by machines.... Am I going to have the same issue installing the replacements? I am a decent mechanic but without task specific tools or previous experience (have not removed bike axle bearings before but have done headsets and cranks and have the tools for those)...

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

After finally getting the CDH mag wheels on the bike this weekend with the challenge lining up the back disc and drive sprocket, after a 4 mile, 30 MPH ride I noticed the front wheel axle had some play in it. When I took it off last night and checked out the axle, it would turn most of the way around (I could not tell the bearing bushing was not turning but the axel was turning inside the bearing) it would stick and I could with pressure advance it. I knew something was not right and the jam nuts were not too tight.

Took the axel out tonight and the bearing is frozen. I took the dust cover off and tried to move the bearing ring and it is fused to the bushing and the collar in the race. I took a center punch and with light tapping with a wooden mallet, I can advance it every so much but the center bushing is turning with it..... frozen I guess.

So to the point (sorry if I pontificate!) what is the best method (no bearing pulling tools in my wood shop and limited mechanical tool chest) to take the bearings out without damaging the hub? The good news is the new axle set they sent me had a new set of bearings I can put back in.

Thanks for the help as always.

I haven't read any responses yet so if I am repeating, sorry.

I just did this the other day. One of the great guys in this forum recommended I tried a punch (I think he said tapered, but they didn't have any...) So I got a Walmart punch set and just tapped it from the other side ever so gently. Once I got a got idea of how to set the punch on there just right, it came right out. At first it was frustrating but after a few taps, you are able to get more of the punch on the lip.

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

Seems like you and I had axle / bearing issues at the same time. Mine are three years old so just a coincidence. I ordered 4 Timken 6000 bearings from Amazon. I am pretty sure Timken stuff is darn good so hopefully they last for a while. Make sure you get grease lubricated style with the rubber seal. The metal seal is for oil applications. Also, make sure your set is the 6000 bearing with the dimensions (10mmx26mmx8mm)

4pack TIMKEN 6000-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 10x26x8mm, Pre-Lubricated and Stable Performance and Cost Effective, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4pack TIMKEN 6000-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 10x26x8mm, Pre-Lubricated and Stable Performance and Cost Effective, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Risk Man]

Seems like you and I had axle / bearing issues at the same time. Mine are three years old so just a coincidence. I ordered 4 Timken 6000 bearings from Amazon. I am pretty sure Timken stuff is darn good so hopefully they last for a while. Make sure you get grease lubricated style with the rubber seal. The metal seal is for oil applications. Also, make sure your set is the 6000 bearing with the dimensions (10mmx26mmx8mm)

4pack TIMKEN 6000-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 10x26x8mm, Pre-Lubricated and Stable Performance and Cost Effective, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4pack TIMKEN 6000-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 10x26x8mm, Pre-Lubricated and Stable Performance and Cost Effective, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

CDH replied again and they just sent me another new axle kit with bearings telling me to go to a bike shop to have them take the old ones out and put the new ones in.... I like your idea as it seems like I could do that my self and thought that it might work. I am going to go to Park tools website and see what tools they have for this process. Did you look into that or just go for it with a punch?

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

I just got an $8 punch set from Walmart. Make sure they are long enough to fit through the hub.

I used two 4x4 pieces of lumber to support my wheel with the hub in middle, bearing I want removed, facing down. I put my punch through the hub center and tapped on the inner lip. Your wheel must be on a solid surface. If it isn't, any movement negates the blow.

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

Also, put the wood pieces or whatever you use as close as possible to the hub. This will help eliminate side stress to the wheels and also flex which reduces the effectiveness of each tap.

 

[Risk Man]

I just got an $8 punch set from Walmart. Make sure they are long enough to fit through the hub.

I used two 4x4 pieces of lumber to support my wheel with the hub in middle, bearing I want removed, facing down. I put my punch through the hub center and tapped on the inner lip. Your wheel must be on a solid surface. If it isn't, any movement negates the blow.

How did you press in the new ones?

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

I used a hammer and piece of wood on top of the bearing. Just be gentle and make sure it goes in even. I think some use the bottom of a socket as the "piece of wood" since a socket will have a flat bottom.

When you do this, use those pieces of lumber directly on the bottom of the hub.