Risky's 2008 Ambassador II Whizzer Rebuild

Took the head off, Was not happy to see what i found. We have three engine types; WC1 through 2004, NE through 2008 and in 2008 or so the SE engine was born. Supposedly the first 60 or so that went into some of the Ambassador 1 (auto clutch model, NOT with CVT) and most of the rest that went into the Ambassador II and the NER. Apparently most of these SE motors have what has been termed "Valve Module". I read about it but had not seen it until tonight....... The valve area is some type of "block" that is screwed into the Aluminum Jug. I have read in early threads here that it is very inferior. Anyone with knowledge of this issue want to chime in?
I love this cylinder. I haven't had any issues with it. I don't have to change the valve seats to use the bigger valves. Fred just has to open them up. Fred says its quality stuff, super hard.
I've been using Ralph's 29mm intake valve with the 26mm carb. Power!
Decking the cylinder is a good idea, keeping it all flat.
Me...I would stay with it. You can have quenton open up the intake port to 1" for the 26mm carb, or 7/8" for the 22mm carb.
You'll definitely need to raise your compression for more added power. These ambassador definitely need it for your cvt.

Ray
 
I love this cylinder. I haven't had any issues with it. I don't have to change the valve seats to use the bigger valves. Fred just has to open them up. Fred says its quality stuff, super hard.
I've been using Ralph's 29mm intake valve with the 26mm carb. Power!
Decking the cylinder is a good idea, keeping it all flat.
Me...I would stay with it. You can have quenton open up the intake port to 1" for the 26mm carb, or 7/8" for the 22mm carb.
You'll definitely need to raise your compression for more added power. These ambassador definitely need it for your cvt.

Ray
That is all good news. So to open the intake port, it needs to go on a milling machine? That is my problem around here is I can not fine an engine machine shop that will work on small engines like this... they all do performance work and tell me they are 4 months behind on work. :(
 
And as a side note, i just could not pull the flywheel today with all the force on a three jaw puller I could muster. With that long shaft and having to use nearly 10 inch puller arms,(which I had to modify as mine were an inch too short) I was getting to the point I was afraid I was going to bend the shaft if I didn't already.
 
That is all good news. So to open the intake port, it needs to go on a milling machine? That is my problem around here is I can not fine an engine machine shop that will work on small engines like this... they all do performance work and tell me they are 4 months behind on work. :(
For them, they'll need to make up a jig first. Remove the old sleeve, make up a new one for what ever size your gonna with. Press in the new one. The setup takes time, Quenton is in your neck of the woods, he already has the setup. My guy has 10 jugs to finish up with for me, he's has had them for 2 months now. I've been ready to send him the next batch. He's been busy with Indian bikes lately.

Ray
 
For them, they'll need to make up a jig first. Remove the old sleeve, make up a new one for what ever size your gonna with. Press in the new one. The setup takes time, Quenton is in your neck of the woods, he already has the setup. My guy has 10 jugs to finish up with for me, he's has had them for 2 months now. I've been ready to send him the next batch. He's been busy with Indian bikes lately.

Ray

And as a side note, i just could not pull the flywheel today with all the force on a three jaw puller I could muster. With that long shaft and having to use nearly 10 inch puller arms,(which I had to modify as mine were an inch too short) I was getting to the point I was afraid I was going to bend the shaft if I didn't already.
So... lesson learned...if it takes that much force to remove something..... likely there is a reason. And there is.....just beyond the last component before the flywheel, the one way gear for starter, the exposed shaft is SCREWED into the crankshaft at the flywheel! If I could have seen closer up on the assembly clip that Mason Man posted, it is shown there, but not clear. An old post here from Quenton explained the repair to this piece and shows a photo of the threaded shaft. I will guess it is right hand thread as he notes how hard it was to remove due to aggressive thread lock compound and on some engines it has unscrewed. I will try this evening one more time to see if I can get to the flywheel, but I did verify that my stator is working by reading AC voltage from it with my meter while rotating with power drill. note that the nut shown on the left is not visible as that part is inside the flywheel shroud.


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Mystery solved... Shaft was threaded on the end of the crank. Some heat from the heat gun, double nut on the end of the shaft and moderate torque from the wrench unscrewed the final piece of the lower CVT and revealed the flywheel. Not to damage the internal threads on the crankshaft, I had a flange nut just smaller than the inside diameter of the flywheel and putted the puller point on the nut and with the usual BANG! the flywheel popped off. Mission accomplished. Down the bare block for eventual cleaning, polishing and engine improvements. Now on the rest of the tear down and component salvage.

More to come an a week or so. Thanks for all the input and learning curve on this one!

Dennis
 

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