Robin eho35? Honda gx35?

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by Bible Man 20, Nov 16, 2009.

  1. Bible Man 20

    Bible Man 20 Member

    ok well i have narrowed it down based on my findings and suggestions that I have gotten that the best 4-strokes in my price range ($300.00 max for everything i need) are the Robin eho35 and the Honda gx35.Here are what I've found out about both.


    price-$160.00 with clutch but no tank and I would still need suggestions on how to attach it and how much extra parts would be.


    price-$220.00 with clutch and tank.I would also need suggestions on how to attach it and how much extra parts would be.I was instructed that this motor was slightly better, but i like how cheap the Robin appears at first, although i dont know what the end prices would be with all the things i need to attach the engine to my bike...

    If you could post any input at all and how you came to know these experiences you are relating, it would be greatly appreciated.Also, if you could give me links to the extra things i will need to be able to completely assemble it onto my bike, that would be great.

  2. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    You'll probably have to stretch that $300 budget a little, not much though, to get quality unless you go to the used market. Do you have a bike and drive components?

    That there are some close-out engines available then go for that but I would recommend the factory tank over the other choices and that'll run $30 plus shipping.

    Regular retail availability for both engines with factory fuel tanks falls within a few dollars of each other. Folks recommend what they purchased kinda like the old Ford vs. Chevy debate. Either one: Honda or Subaru will serve very well for assisting a bicycle along but do remember these are 7/8 lb. weedwhacker engines and not overly sophisticated motor vehicles.
  3. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    What kind of drive

    Are you looking at ???
    Chain... etc...
  4. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    You are talking about putting together a compleatly custom one off install kit for under $150.00. You need to spend some time looking over the parts available from vendors like , , Start at and look thru their install kit for the Honda GXH50 motor to see all of the various parts you will need to install a 4-stroke motor into the frame of a bicycle. Then start pricing out the various parts from the vendors listed above. Bicycle-engines primary reduction gearbox will not fit the motors you are considering so you will need to look else where for this item. You will probably find somthing similar to sub for this item at vendors that sell parts to Pocket bike riders/racers that will fit the motors you are considering. Are you a good fabricator? are you good at problem solving when it comes to things mechanical? What you are trying to accomplish happens with alot of trial and error. Do a search here for threads started by member DetonatorTuning and read thru one of his custom builds to get a feel for just what all is involved in building a custom drivtrain. Here is a link to one of his builds,

  5. Both are good engines. sells both, with or without the stock tank and offers a couple of bigger auxillary tanks. The least expensive drive systems are friction drive and frame mounts for the HT engines. If you decide on a frame mount you will need a way to gear down the engine rpm to a sprocket or pully on the wheel and a pedal set wide enough to clear the engine/gearbox. A total ratio reduction (including the drive sprocket) of about 17-20 to 1 is about right. I don't know your location, buti n almost all places where motored bikes are legal you must retain the ability to also pedal the bike. My first setup was friction drive. It is the simplest system as the gear reduction is the drive roller size to tire size ratio.
  6. Bible Man 20

    Bible Man 20 Member

    it doesnt seem like friction drives are very dependable and they would wear down your tires fast.also you couldnt run into a this true?
  7. Turtle Tedd

    Turtle Tedd Member

    ...Time to make a desision...cough up some more cash or order a HT kit...simple
  8. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    That's about the size of it(or go 2nd hand)
  9. Friction drive is VERY dependable, probably the MOST dependable drive there is. No chain wear, adjustments, tensioner problems, belt wear-breakage, etc. Simple, cheap, basic, and reliable are what friction drive is all about. Yes, running through water is a problem, the answer is to pedal assist the engine and to learn to "feather" the throttle lightly. Yes, friction drive wears rear tires faster than other drive systems, but the cost of bike tires is faily low and wearing out a tire a year instead of every 3 years isn't exactly catastrophic. Wear isn't a serious problem if the drive roller is precisely perpendicular to the tire. I just bought a new tire for my friction bike for next year, $14.00. Meh.
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2009
  10. Bible Man 20

    Bible Man 20 Member

    o alright, thanks for that great info!after i get done with my wheelchair il buy the stuff i need.
  11. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    YEP, I agree 100%. With a good motor, they are the most dependable drive system && the simplest.
  12. cycledude

    cycledude Member

    I have gotten into trouble with my scooter, much more dangerous than my bicycles.
    People have a total disregard for scooters, and their riders.
    I am not saying that drivers have respect for bicycle riders but if you cross me you better be aware, and have your windows closed, bcause I am spitting and throwing my lit up cigarret in there along with a few other things.
    And don't let me see you park where I can get to you.
    I used to chase people down for a talk after they did something nasty, like they own the road or something, I dont do that anymore, why waist my time?
    I go after their farkles.
    oh, ah....the gx35
  13. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    There's more general info on information on friction drives, (what's true, and what's not,) in the Friction Drive Intro/FAQ.
  14. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I would agree with but would offer this context: We define dependable if they are correctly set-up and then trouble-free and ready off the shop or garage floor for more or less short outings.

    I put it that way because there might other considerations for some defining "dependable".
    For example, if you were to rely on an MB to commute to work 5 days a week or some such obligation regardless of weather conditions, or for use in long distance, high-mile touring.

    Friction drives are best IMO for short hops and if you can pick your weather.
  15. Slackbiker

    Slackbiker Member

    I have went on fairly long tours with a friction drive, but then i have also went on non-motorized bike tours. My friction drive is definately pedal assist
  16. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I guess I'd then ask what 'fairly long' means. :devilish:
    My comment was directed toward multi-day touring of possibly some hundreds of miles. One problem I've had is with steel spindles getting extremely hot and transferring that to the engine crank and the tire. Hot summer road surfaces are definitely also a factor.

    The inverse of that is being out on an extended tour and prolonged wet weather setting in.

    A point I've tried to make is it might be pertinent to define intended use and context for these things. I see a tendancy of a lot of folks recently here order an engine and/or kit and a month later start making generalizations while it's impossible to do so without considerable road trial time. I'm sure it's just being enthusiastic, receiving the gear and getting a bike up and running is fun. But if it's a just a fun thing buzzing around a few miles a week during good weather and then parked in the garage, it might be misleading to those looking for more well-rounded advice.
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2009
  17. Slackbiker

    Slackbiker Member

    Well fairly long for me meant touring from April 2-Oct 2, 2008. First i circled several locations in New Mexico (Albuquerque-the Gila National Monument and back with side trips, being the main leg), then i took the bus to Denver and went to Yellowstone, Idaho, Nevada, and eventually Barstow, California. I went a couple hundred miles on Forest Roads. This year i toured extensively in New Mexico and Southern CO (once again lots of Forest Roads) from early April to Mid October. Many days i didn't use the motor. My main problem is that i wore down the roller, so it doesn't work well anymore in wet conditions, but then i don't like to bike ride at all in rain anyway. After 2 summers of use (on and off use, but numerous steep mountainous roads), the motor (Robin-Subaru EH035) seems ~100% as powerful as new.
  18. se-riously

    se-riously New Member

    Just wanted to point out in this older thread that occasionally has the GX35 for $195 shipped (including the fuel tank). In fact, it's $195 right now.
  19. Old Bob

    Old Bob Member

    and the GX35 is rated at the same 1.6 hp the eho35 is supposedly putting out.:thinking:

    The commentary from the RS sheeple about not being built in japan is just racist.
  20. arty dave

    arty dave New Member

    I recall facts being stated, not races being slurred.
    The robin suzuki is made in Japan
    The honda in Taiwan
    Most people are saying thay are on par for quality.

    Buy one of them and ride your bike!
    Enjoy your awesome 4 stroke!