Robin Subaru Oil Change method

[Daniel_62]

Just curious what and how you guys use to drain the oil in the EH035.

My Rear friction drive Cranbrook is easy since the fill hole is on the back,
I just Raise the front wheel and drain into a bucket

My Staton Outside gear drive setup is more tedious, I bought on of those Plastic blue Vacuum Sucker tanks form Lowes, it works very Well

And as noted in other Threads Conventional oil is very cheap and since its easy to change I do it often

any thoughts?


thanks

Dave

 

[Happy Valley]

These are great little engines and your oil change methods are the plausible choices without a lot of bother. Left side rear mount is easy, right side more problematic.

That said, one will find repeated mentions among RS owners about not overfilling the crankcase. The reservoir holds 100 ml but many users have suggested only using 80 ml so as not to have oil blowback. I inadvertently found out one time why that is.

Once changing the oil on a RS35 with a suction pump I noticed another problem on the mount that needed attention and that required removing the engine. I put the engine on the bench laying on it's side supported by a couple of blocks to finish draining and left a small measuring cup under to catch the drips. It wasn't until latter that I was able to get back to finish the job and I was surprised to find about 20 ml of oil in the cup. This was after I had suctioned it empty as I normally did. When these little engines are mounted on hand power equipment and the like, they are easy to pull the plug and lay over a drain pan to empty. When they are upright on a bike it's hard to get all the oil out.

Does it matter? That's up to each to decide but frequent oil changes from the start is probably a move in the right direction. Replacing 80 ml of 100 ml (3 1/3 ounces!) capacity means 20% doesn't get changed and the last 20 ml is the thicker dregs. These engines don't have oil filters and the oiling system uses check balls that some say might be subject to clogging with sludge and eventually inhibiting proper lubrication. I've exchanged emails on a number of topics with a R/S tech support guy who seems to know his stuff and I once asked him about it. His reply predictably said just turn the tool over a drain pan let it empty out. When, after I mentioned it was on a bicycle, he kinda lost interest in that conversation, lol.

 

[darwin]

I read some where that theres a filter on the end of the pickup tube sorta like in alot of 2 stroke gas tanks.

 

[Happy Valley]

No, there's no filter there, just a ball check valve. And good thing, a filter would be a real problem, easily clogged and hard to get to clean or swap out.

 

[PatrickW]

I change the oil on the Meteor (r/s 035) rather frequently...it's cheep insurance. I bought a pair of 4 oz clear plastic bottles from the local beautician shop (like the ones diners put Ketchup & Mustard in on the tables), and a foot or so of clear plastic tubing from the hobby shop. Mixed up a quart of light motor oil and kerosene (half & half) in a plastic quart Mayo jar. I suck out the Old Oil and squirt it into an empty milk bottle. Refill it with the kerosene/oil mixture, and squirt it into the crankcase. Disconnect the spark-plug and pull the starter cord several times...let it sit and pull the starter cord several more times...wait, and do it one more time. Suck out the dirty mixture, and squirt it into the 'used oil' jug. Fill the other (clean) little squirt bottle with the right amount of 10/30 oil, fill the crankcase, screw in the plug. Reconnect the spark-plug, And kick it over and look for leaks. BahDaBing, BahDaBoom. You are in business.

That just cost me 20 minutes of time, and hardly anything in materials. I have never had a small engine fail on me yet.