Roller clutch (EVERY BODY needs one)!!!

This item is GREAT!!! Just got mine yesterday. Great piece, And dealing with Al fisherman (Ron) Is a pleasure!!! It came fast and the color I wanted, (He makes them on an order basis ,Black, Silver or raw). Even if you don't have any issues with the carb and clutch adjust/riser bar, (like I did, with the billet intake & speed carb). It is still a GOT TO HAVE ITEM !!!!!

 

[AussieSteve]

About $14 from memory, HCS.

 

[danlandberg]

Contact (PM Him) Al Fisherman. He makes them to order, And he can give you a price /w shipping. I had to use one because I have a billet intake + speed carb. I had the clutch riser bar cut off and notched to use as a plug. Mine was 17.00.

 

[happycheapskate]

My priorities have been getting the axle to stay put and getting a spring tensioner on there, and putting a 12g front wheel. Then I might be interested in the clutch pulley as a last accessory.

But I'm always looking for solutions so I can promote and build these bikes for workers and students.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

My priorities have been getting the axle to stay put and getting a spring tensioner on there, and putting a 12g front wheel. Then I might be interested in the clutch pulley as a last accessory.

But I'm always looking for solutions so I can promote and build these bikes for workers and students.

Sent you a PM, when I build a bike for someone else I automatically price in the roller, it's nice that I can make them. But after the first one I made I'd never deliver a bike without one** even if I had to buy them from a vendor. They are really easy to make and if you have the parts and tools, so can you. I make very little considering I get the rollers from Lowe's, angle iron from a metal shop, and occasional bottle of oxygen and propane plus running around now and then. Shipment has ALWAYS been the same day or the next day except Sunday. All 50 states... $17.00 includes shipping.

**Other then the roller both the engine "L" bracket and custom motor mounts are standard. The boost bottle is optional.

 

[give me vtec]

**Other then the roller both the engine "L" bracket and custom motor mounts are standard. The boost bottle is optional.

I never could get the boost bottle to work right... no matter what I did or how I configured it, it never did anything but make my motor run like cr@p.

 

[KanesKustoms]

Yes I put one on my bike,, Very nice smooth movement. Nice little gizmo for the price.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I never could get the boost bottle to work right... no matter what I did or how I configured it, it never did anything but make my motor run like cr@p.

I hear that quite often. I make my own using PVC measured down to the CC, no more no less, except for the hose. I drill a hole in my intake manifold, tap it out to a 1/8" pipe thread (1/8npt..1/4 barb). I grind (at a angle) any brass that protrudes into the manifold. Once completed there isn't many threads on the nipple so I coat the threaded portion with JB Wield (that's just about the only place I use it on a HT bike), and thread it into the manifold. Being careful that the angle of the nipple lines up correctly with the manifold interior wall, before the JB sets up overnight. There is nothing protruding into the manifold that can cause a disturbance to the fuel/airflow. I've made three and have done a before and after test. Can tell a difference with each one. I use SCH 40 as the interior is smaller and the wall thicker then SCH 20. This enables a little extra length. Each cap holds 5 CC.

 

[KCvale]

I'm having trouble with pics,but here it goes. Ron U beat me to it! LOL

Regarding your frame mount pic...

Does the HT kit not come with with the extra U mount extender and long screw studs like Grubee's?

I have other pictures if you want, and I know this is off topic (sort of), but the mounting kit sure makes the job cleaner and easier.
The only thing is you need to squeeze the frame in a bit for the extra long motor mount studs to fit around the tube.

On cheaper bikes like a Huffy, you can squeeze it in a bit with channel locks.
With a thicker tube you need a vice.
This is for steel frame bikes only. Do NOT do this with aluminum frames, any flaw in the tube integrity could lead to frame failure.

But back to topic...
I like the clutch pulley, nice design ;-}

 

[Al.Fisherman]

There was no front mounting kit supplied other then a strap that wraps around the tube and is secured with nuts. If you look closely you will see that the clamp that I used is a muffler clamp. You can tell by the curved portion inside the frame and on top of the plate that is wielded to the angle iron.
Looking at your picture, it looks like the studs screw into the block (front mount) and the clamp is against the outer tube, and held on by nuts. I made this mount because I didn't like 1) the way that the curved mounts fit. Not flush with tube, and 2) I wanted to raise the engine up on the seat tube for both a better chain placement and clear the chain guard on the right side. On my first build I had to modify the chain guard as the engine sat too low. Both mounts fit totally flush on the tube, which is about impossible with factory mounting, especially on a Cruiser. To get a perfect fit in the "V" the "V" needs to be 75 degrees (with no curve) , anything else will be an improper fit but can be gotten away with.

 

[danlandberg]

True you can get away with a little difference in angle degrees, but I would change the mounting studs with grade 8 or better or you will get broken studs!!!