RSE/Zeda reed valve, improvements?

FurryOnTheInside

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I was told in a recent thread that the reed valve with the carbon fibre petals (the RSE one from Zeda) isn't as good as the reed valve with the fibreglass petals (from MZ Miami) and needs some work done on it to make it reliable.

(Unfortunately MZ are making it impossible to buy anything by putting silly shipping prices on their eBay listings, and having the worst website ever, and no email (it just bounces back). )

I thought I would make a new thread so this specific info is easier to find in future, for anyone who is interested. :)

So just how much worse is the RSE/Zeda (carbon fibre petal) reed?
and what improvements or preventative measures do I need to do to get some reliability and performance out of it?

I'd like to know I'm able to get something that isnt too far behind the MZ (fibreglass petals) reed in performance and reliability. :)
 
It's the same body and diamentions with a different petal material,the glass ones best suited to stock or mildly done engines flex and open easyier than the carbon fiber.The intake port needs to be opened top and bottom to allow full open in most cases and blended toward the window.The carbon fiber being a bit stiffer tend to clap shut and fray the ends(bottom edge) then the bits of carbon get sucked into the case.Stress cracks occure across the fiber glass just below it's fasteners,the carbon ones especaily if frayed crack length wise.This can be reduced by sealing the ends with C/A glue or thin epoxy and sanded perfectly square.To me it's alot of extra work to window the piston properly blend the port and have to check them periodicaly for such a little gain if any but that's just my opinion.
 
Well, I was hoping there would be some way to get the carbon fibre ones to be less of a restriction so I wouldn't lose much off my top speed, but the low end/ midrange torque and intake noise reduction is far more important to me, personally. (and the reed valve's reliability)

So should I pick up a set of replacement petals when I order the reed valve? I guess from the sounds of it that would be a good idea. :)

I'm trying to picture in my head what you describe with the cyanoacrylate glue (common ordinary super glue?) or thin epoxy. I assume you mean a thing coating of epoxy rather than thin meaning runny. I hope I can figure it out when I have the reed valve in front of me.
Same goes for the intake port reshaping, I will just have to figure out what looks about right. Does fully open mean that the petals will be parallel with each other and the direction of the intake flow?
I'll post photos of any modifications I do.


It would've been nice to have more flexible petals for less intake restriction but it sounds like the difference isn't too much. :)
MZ are too damn frustrating to try to deal with, and I see no spare petals for their reed valve.
If it turns out to be possible for me to make my own fibreglass replacements then I will be glad I got the much less expensive valve from RSE/ Zeda/ BMW anyway. :)
 
Carbon fiber has an "open" edge to it's sides where it's been cut...no hard coating just the softer raw fibers.

I use crazy glue and coat the soft sides with it so it's less prone to cracks or splitting...it works.
 
Using a 2 petal Reed will be minimal at best considering you already use the longer intake manifold.

Going with a 4 petal would be a better choice but in doing so you will require a larger carburetor and richer mixture settings and in reality without a good expansion chamber exhaust not gain the full benefits of the added stable mixture.
 
Carbon fiber has an "open" edge to it's sides where it's been cut...no hard coating just the softer raw fibers.

I use crazy glue and coat the soft sides with it so it's less prone to cracks or splitting...it works.
Crazy glue is cyanoacrylate glue/ "super glue"/ instant glue?
 
Don't forget more intake porting and blending as the larger reed port may be larger in general.
 
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