rubber spacers for rear sprocket

R

retrophoto

Guest
I am a bit curious,

For those of you who mounted the engine on a cruiser, without a chain tensioner, did you add spacers to the rear wheel? if so approx how much did you move the wheel.

I had to add one to keep the chain from rubbing the frame. It made a slight pop now and then as if it wants to jump loose. I have added more space but it doesn't seem to get any better maybe even a little worse.

I read about spacers but am curious to see if it varies from bike to bike.
 
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R

retrophoto

Guest
Ah I see but my sprocket is flat so it wouldn't have made any difference which side was in I think. the chain barely rubbed so I put a big washer on that side. It moved the wheel over an 1/8 inch or so. I have had as much has half an inch in there, but I'm down to just one washer. The chain is close to the frame, but I think it is all lined up.

I could probably use a roller chain guild of some kind to help line it up as it heads off to that rear sprocket. I might have to consider that later.
 
M

mickey

Guest
On my skyliner, I have to use the roller tensioner to clear the chain stay. Lifting up the returning chain does the job for me.
 
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andyinchville1

Guest
A sprocket with an offset may help (most of the sprockets that I have seen (with the exception of one 36 T unit) have an offset built into them....I suppose one could maybe make some spacers out of washers or other metal but it is important that there be enough surface area so that when the bolts are tightened the sprocket stays in place.....May be easier to buy a sprocket with an offset than "tweaking" above :-O

Andrew

Andrew
 

cooltoy

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
341
I don't know if this will help but to solve this I did not use both of those rubber pads that come with the sprockets. This allows the sprocket to go inwards another 1/4 inch, touching/sitting against the spokes. I've never even had to tighten the bolts in well over 6 months, so it seems to work.
 
F

fetor56

Guest
I don't know if this will help but to solve this I did not use both of those rubber pads that come with the sprockets. This allows the sprocket to go inwards another 1/4 inch, touching/sitting against the spokes. I've never even had to tighten the bolts in well over 6 months, so it seems to work.
Interesting idea...i'll have to think about that. :)
 

cooltoy

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
341
I was just looking at my post and should have said that I only used the rubber on the inside. Sorry.
 
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Ghost0

Guest
I agree, one doughnut is all I use. I think that it helps with alignment but I think mostly it reduces spoke breakage. I think using both doughnuts makes it difficult to tighten, or at least tell that the bolts are tight enough, to sufficiently keep the sprocket from slipping. Slipping equals spoke breakage.
 
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fetor56

Guest
It shouldn't slip but it doesn't hurt to check them every so often.To make sure it's always centered perfectly i use 4 small metal spacers between the sprocket hole and the wheel hub.They fit SNUGLY and i also glue them in with epoxy resin.It only takes 2 mins and is a good guarantee that nothing can move.
 

machiasmort

Active Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
784
i'm worried about spokes!

if you can send a pic of your rear sprocket set up and tell me how time has tested it, i'd appreciate it greatly. I'm thinking about running with rubber only on the inside of spokes myself but the bearing hub on the rim prevents the sprocket from bottoming to the hubs where the spokes go through.

I'm having major alignment problems w/chain rubbing on frame.

Also, Is it ok to run the sprocket inside out or backwards like this?

thanks

marty in ny
 
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