Ryobi 31cc clutch removal

seabillco

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7-15-08
Hi,
I just removed the clutch housing and clutch mechanism from my 2nd Ryobi 31cc weed wacker engine and wanted to pass on this tip in case it will help someone.
If you are having trouble removing the clutch housing, there's a size 20 Torx bolt in the end of the crank shaft holding the housing on. You can't really see it because it's deep inside the square shaft that protrudes from the clutch housing.
I put some 'Break Free' oil in that opening and left it overnight. The next morning, I took out the spark plug and crammed some cotton rope into the spark plug hole (using a pencil's eraser end) to fill up the combustion chamber. Leave some rope hanging out.
This will keep the piston from moving and will allow you to turn the bolt to remove the clutch housing. This way, you won't break any fins on the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver in them.
With that done, turn the Torx bolt in the square shaft on the clutch housing CCW, as normal; it's NOT a left-hand thread. With the Break Free oil working overnight, it just popped right off and I was easily able to remove the clutch housing.
This exposes the clutch mechanism. With the rope still in the combustion chamber, use pipe pliers on the largest opening and grab the clutch mechanism on the metal ears - NOT the springs - and turn the clutch mechanism CCW, as normal to loosen things. Again, it just spun right off without any problems or much effort.
It was so easy to remove the housing and clutch, I thought I had broken them!
When you're all done doing whatever it is you're doing, simply pull the rope out. Any little cotton pieces will burn up.
Also, FWIW, I understand you must clean the spark arrestor (if you've got one) every 25 hours. This could prevent your engine from running due to excessive back pressure.
Finally, FWIW, I have found that the flywheel keys shear pretty easily on these small, 2 stroke engines. If your engine isn't starting and you can't figure out why, check that the flywheel key is intact and in the right place.
I hope this helps someone.

Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon
 
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WOW, this helps a lot I was wondering how to remove the cutch just last night. I found the torx screw but could not find a way to keep everything from moving around while loosening it. Thanks for the other info as well, I will check my engines for these things too.

I would love to see a photo of this bike when completed.
 

seabillco

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Local time
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Photo of MB with Ryobi 31cc engine

7-15-08
Hi,
You're welcome!
I've posted pictures and video of how I built my 1st MB on my personal blog at:

http://steverg.blogspot.com/

It might help you.
Also, here's some pictures for you right now.

Have a great day!
Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon
 

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seabillco

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7-15-08
Hi, SVH
The suicide clutch lever has not been a problem so far, but I don't like it either.
I'm working on a motorcycle style clutch lever to replace it.
On my 2nd project, I would like to weld the drive spindle to the clutch housing so I'll have the centrifugal clutch operating and, hopefully, I won't need the manual clutch.
That presents some issues I'm still working on...

Have fun!
Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon
 

brendonv

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Cant u just use a flat head screw driver to get the screw out? I gotta take mine off as when the engine idles it engages and disengages, is this normal? I think i have to replace the spring, could you possibly get pics of step by step instructions to getting it off? Also i dont really like the idea of filling my cylinder with rope, cant i just shove a screw driver in the fan? Thanks.
 
B

BSA

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This is a clutch thread and it's for a rack mount so it belongs in rack mount drivetrain. Moved

BSA
 
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seabillco

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centrifugal clutch removal

Hi Brendonv

Brendon
I tried to remove the clutch without using the proper tools and I ruined the crankshaft's threaded end. So, FWIW, IMHO, etc, I would not try doing it with a screwdriver. I'd use the proper Torx driver.
I, too, was a little concerned about putting cotton rope in the engine but I realized I was putting far too much stress on the aluminum flywheel fins and I was willing to try something else rather than pay $35 for a new flywheel. Also, I had heard of this trick decades ago when I was a kid.
Having done it both ways, I can tell you, without a doubt, the rope trick is much better ESPECIALLY if you use the oil to loosen the threads up.

Good luck!
Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon
 
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brendonv

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So did your clutch sort of disengage and engage at idle? It doesnt fully engage it sorta makes a grinding noise and quickly engages than disengages. I dont want to take it off if i can help it, also my clutch drum is sorta loose, i mean the screw it tight and isnt going anywhere but theres about 2mm of slack on the drum i can move it up and down. Is this normal? Is this what might be creating the problem? Im also thinking either the spring has had had it or theres some grit in it or something although that wouldnt explain the skipping, just the grinding sorta noise. When i pull the pull start hard with the engine on off the clutch sorta makes a grinding noise and the end of the pull.
 

seabillco

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clutch is probably ok

7-15-08
Hi, again, BrendonV
I have 2 of these engines and they both act the way you're describing.
They work fine.
I'm thinking you should probably just leave the clutch alone unless it doesn't work.
My clutches both kind of half work and half don't when the engine is idling. With the resistance from the wheel (once it's mounted on the bike), they will do what you want.
Once the speed builds up enough, of course, the 'dogs' will bite the housing and it should work fine.
I'm wondering if you have any ideas how to attach your drive spindle to the clutch housing?
I'd sure like some help on that topic.
:D

Thanks!
Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon
 
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