Ryobi 31cc clutch removal

[seabillco]

Hi, Squid
Is it possible the engine(s) you have do NOT have a centrifugal clutch installed on the crank shaft?
This thread was about removing the clutch (not the flywheel). I have seen these Ryobi engines with no centrifugal clutch on the crank and you simply remove 4 screws from a plastic housing to expose the flywheel.
Maybe that's the difference?
On the engines I have with a centrifugal clutch installed, the clutch is screwed onto the crank shaft AFTER the plastic housing that surrounds the flywheel is installed at the factory. So, on these engines, you can remove the 4 screws from the plastic housing BUT you can't get the plastic housing off the shaft without first removing the clutch.
The problem I ran into (and hence the reason for the thread) was how to stop the crank from turning while you unscrew the clutch so as to get the housing off and, ultimately, reveal the flywheel?
In this set up, I have found you can wedge a screw driver through openings in the plastic housing and in between the fins on the flywheel but this may well result in a broken flywheel fin. This is especially true since you can't see what you're doing very well and it's hard to get the screw driver seated low on the flywheel's fin.
That's why I proposed the 'rope a dope' method.

Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[Squidman37]

Steve,
As I stated in an earlier post "The engine I have used the chain vise grip technique on was a 30 cc Ryobi cs30 weed whacker and I had no problems with getting to the flywheel. perhaps there is a difference in the two motors? " My motors did, in fact, have a centrifugal clutch on the end of the crankshaft but they were installed before the plastic housing. I noticed that you are using used motors( older models perhaps) whereas the motor I am using was taken off a brand new weed whacker and the design may be a bit different. Again, sorry about the confusion.

Squid
San Lorenzo, CA

 

[seabillco]

7-24
Hi, Squid:
Yes, that must be it. I don't have a CS30. The closest I have is an SS30 and it (and all 5 of my Ryobi engines) has the clutch and bell housing bare naked on the shaft.
Mine are probably older engines because I bought them on eBay. I just got another one yesterday and it's the same.
BTW, I LOVE these engines. The 4 stroke 26.2cc is a dream for this application!

Thanks for your patience!

Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[sweet valley high]

I am going to use what I have learned from this post to remove my clutch tomorrow, something has left go and I will need to see what has happened.

The rope trick will come in handy!

 

[seabillco]

7-26-08
Hi, SVH
I just finished removing the drive spindle on both my friction drive Ryobi engines and swapping them. I used the rope method. It works like a charm!
If you're removing the clutch or something like that, I found it helps A LOT to put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit as long as your patience allows.
Also, please remember to use COTTON rope and NOT nylon or something that will melt rather than burn if there's any little pieces in the chamber after you're done.
I have a length of cotton rope I keep just for this purpose and it's like magic.
Please let me know if you have any problems or thoughts as you do this.

Thanks!
Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[sweet valley high]

I did not need to remove the clutch after all.

Very weird, I took it off the bike last night and it seemed like something was wrong and when I went to work on it in the morning it was fine.



I wish everything was like that!

Not to derail the thread completely, but any pointers on adjusting the carb on my 31cc Ryobi 2 cycle? I got the little plastic things off the adjustment screw already.

 

[mbatl]

I got the clutch off, but the kill switch is connected to the plastic covering which held the rope start. Should I cut that wire or will that cause it not to run, how do you guys do it?

 

[seabillco]

Hi, mbatl
On all my Ryobi engines, the kill switch inside the plastic housing is connected with push-on connectors that I pull off easily with needle nose pliers.
FWIW, I don't use the kill switch on mine since I have a friction drive and the engine just dies when I put the brakes on and slow down to a crawl.
Also, in my experience, the engine will run without the kill switch on the Ryobi engines. That is, it won't hurt to cut it off since the switch actually shorts the coil to kill the engine and the switch is 'open' in the ON position.
I hope this helps.

Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[mbatl]

Hi, mbatl
On all my Ryobi engines, the kill switch inside the plastic housing is connected with push-on connectors that I pull off easily with needle nose pliers.
FWIW, I don't use the kill switch on mine since I have a friction drive and the engine just dies when I put the brakes on and slow down to a crawl.
Also, in my experience, the engine will run without the kill switch on the Ryobi engines. That is, it won't hurt to cut it off since the switch actually shorts the coil to kill the engine and the switch is 'open' in the ON position.
I hope this helps.

Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon

That's exactly the answer I needed, thanks so much. Now I have to find a way to mount this thing without welding(don't have a welder).

 

[mbatl]

I did not need to remove the clutch after all.

Very weird, I took it off the bike last night and it seemed like something was wrong and when I went to work on it in the morning it was fine.



I wish everything was like that!

Not to derail the thread completely, but any pointers on adjusting the carb on my 31cc Ryobi 2 cycle? I got the little plastic things off the adjustment screw already.

I thought the plastic white and red caps (on my 31cc ryobi) were used to adjust it, not to be taken off?