Ryobi 31cc clutch removal

[seabillco]

Hi, again, mbatl
As for no welder...
I built 2 of these friction drive bikes with Ryobi engines and no welding at all. For details, please feel free to read my personal blog at:

http://steverg.blogspot.com/2008/07/motorized-bicycle-diy.html

And, if you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask and I'll be happy to tell you what I did.
I'm no expert but I'm happy to share what little I know.
I have oxy-acetylene and a MIG welder but I didn't see a need to use them on these projects.
For me, the tricky part is the drive roller and a clutch.

Good luck!
Steve G
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[sweet valley high]

The ones on mine incorporated anti rotation features which would allow for only very slight adjustment. I am not sure if all of these engines are the same.

If it's not broke don't mess with it!

I thought the plastic white and red caps (on my 31cc ryobi) were used to adjust it, not to be taken off?

 

[seabillco]

Hi, yet again, mbatl
Shoot... I forgot to mention that the plastic parts on the carb are there to keep you from adjusting the carb.
Most people pull them off and play with the carb adjustment screws. I haven't found a need to do that since I'm not trying to build a drag racer... I'm just trying to have fun.
In my experience, if your engine is running, there's no need to tinker with the carb. If it's not running, you probably have issues that won't be solved simply by removing the plastic cover and playing with the screws.
However, I could be wrong. It's just that, so far, I haven't had to mess with those screws at all and I've got 5-6 of these Ryobi engines that all run fine.

Steve G.
Grants Pass, Oregon

 

[mbatl]

thanks for the advice I'll check out your site.

 

[keatonx]

You could get 2 skateboard bearings (they may not fit without a spacer), slide a bolt through them, and pull that to the axle bolt with a bungee cord or modded hose clamp. Thats what im doing.