SBP freewheel problem? Look in here!!!

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by ua2pants, Mar 29, 2014.

  1. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    If you are having problems like i've had with the pawls of the freewheel breaking on your shift kit, then I have a solution for you!!!
    In the picture above, is the SBP Standard Freewheel for their shift kit installed with my sprockets. One of the pawls inside snapped and made the other two inside inoperable. If you are having the same problem or know anybody else, please direct them to this post.

    I will say now that this does take a little bit of time to complete and you must be sure to follow these instructions to the letter!!!

    If you have a warranty on your part, by all means use that. If however you don't want to deal with shipping and waiting, do what i've done.


    In the picture above, I have the standard freewheel from SBP and a ACS BMX Freewheel (box for freewheel in a coming picture with all specs).
    You will also need some type of tool (sorry if I can't remember the name of it at the moment) to remove your freewheel from the crank arm.


    Just another picture showing the tool needed with the box, a close up of the box coming in another picture.


    All specs are shown here.


    These are the tools i've used to successfully remove the freewheel from the crank arm. Use whatever tools you have to get the job done.


    The bolt, washer and nut were used to hold the tool onto the freewheel as just using a wrench and the tool is extremely difficult as it likes to slip away from the freewheel. I tightened up the nut until it was only snug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE NUT OR YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE FREEWHEEL!!!


    Remove your freewheel as shown, they all turn counter-clockwise.


    After removal, use a socket and wrench to remove the sprockets from the freewheel. I used a 5/16" socket.


    Showing after removal of the bolts, washers and nuts from the freewheel.


    Once you remove the components from the freewheel, put it back on to the crank arm to make taking the freewheel apart.


    The two small holes on the inside ring are what your going to remove. Use a punch or screwdriver (as i've done) and hit the tool of choise Counter-clockwise to remove the ring. REMEMBER, ON THIS FREEWHEEL IT IS COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE THE RING. This is important as the other freewheel internals are CLOCKWISE.


    Once the ring is off, go ahead and dump out all the parts. The part shown above is the only part we're going to salvage aside from the bearing rings (2) and shims (5).


    This is a picture of the pawls and the one that broke. SBP uses 3 pawls inside of their standard freewheel.


    A better picture of the broken pawl.


    Now go ahead and open the other freewheel up using the same steps as mentioned above. Put it on the crank arm, and remove the ring, the internals (springs, pawls inside ring and outside ring are all we're going to want. You can discard the sprocket portion as it is not needed.


    Just showing the loose bearings that are also not needed, but hold on to those as they may be handy later on down the line.


    Using the internals from the BMX freewheel, insert it in this order. Ring bearing facing upward, Springs for pawls, then the pawls themself.


    With the ring bearing at the bottom, you can press the 4 pawls in while gently sliding up the ring bearing. This is important as it will hold all the pawls inward to make it easier to insert the outside ring into the sprocket adapter.


    These are the pawls and springs from the BMX freewheel. Much more heavy duty.

    Part two of this thread is coming up once this one is permitted by an admin.

    Stay tuned!!!

    Attached Files:

    BigBlue likes this.

  2. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Here's a video from ThatsDax on how to service your freewheel that might help those that are interested. His freewheel is turned clockwise to remove the ring. Most people probably don't regularly service their freewheels:

    AKA: BigBlue
  3. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    I originally purchased my first freewheel from dax, it didn't even last an hour, that's why I got the sbp one, and it lasted about 2 days, then it stripped out the pawls and that's when I decided to do this tutorial. And so far, it's been great
  4. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Pretty much why we designed the HD Freewheel in 2008.

    What size engine and what head have you been using with the regular freewheel?
  5. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    My motor is all stock, and I'm not running it hard, I would have got the hd one but that's seriously expensive for such a small part
  6. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    But it's a 66cc with a slant head
  7. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    First of all I nothing against your mod of adding stronger pawls. Good idea!

    And what does our website say?

    Just so people know the whole story. Thanks.
  8. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I know expensive - Have you priced HD BMX Freewheels? Typically over $100.
  9. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    My shift kit didn't come from sbp, it came from dax, which I wouldn't recommend to anyone, but regardless. I wish I would have seen that last part.. thing is, the sbp freewheel didn't fail under pressure from the motor running, it snapped a pawl from my pedaling trying to start the motor
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  10. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    That's how the pawls snap. There is no force on the pawls when running the engine.
  11. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    if that were true, then the sbp freewheel shouldnt say anything about the use of a slant head or 66cc or above motor, it should have weight restrictions as i was just pedaling when it happened.
  12. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Huh? There is no force on the pawls when you are running under engine power. Only when starting/riding.

    Think of an engine with 5:1 compression ratio. Turns over super easy, not much force on pawls. Now think of a monster engine with 13:1 compression ratio. Mega force on pawls. No low cost FW can handle this and they snap. If you were just pedaling and not starting the engine, then use the warranty - typically our new standard FW can handle that.
  13. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    Ohhhh.. I understand it now pablo, my mistake. I'm still fairly new to this whole shift kit thing, but im learning as I go along. So far with the 4 pawl mechanism it's been running fine. The only other problem i've had is the axle? Can't think of the correct term for it.. its the part that holds the crank arms, but I believe mine is bent. Anyone know where to get another higher quality one?
  14. ua2pants

    ua2pants Member

    And would a pull start cable work on a bike with a shift kit? I think that would take care of all the problems of the freewheel now that I understand it only applies pressure when starting the engine initially.
  15. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Member

    Yes a pull starter will eliminate the need to use the freewheel to pedal start the engine but by the time you buy it, install it, pray it actually works, then realize you need a wider bottom bracket so the cranks will clear you could have bought an HD freewheel and been done with it.

    Oh and on the comment on the spindle, they usually aren't bent but possible. Most likely what your are seeing, if you are detecting a wobble, is the crank arm not mounting perfectly square to the shaft. This is very common with square taper crank assemblies and why they created the ISIS splined systems.
  16. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

  17. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    But the proper solution is a proper freewheel, as the standard lower specification freewheels are a complete waste of time, as they don't hold their mechanical tolerances very well, and that's from brand new - you get what you pay for - it's that simple.

    I have advised everyone who is thinking of purchasing a Shift Kit to bit the bullet and order the Deluxe version because it comes with the White Industries Heavy Duty Freewheel system, not to mention all of the necessary tools to service the drive train.
    My White Industries Freewheel body has survived over 50,000 kilometers (31,000 miles) of use; many of those kilometers under punishing conditions.

    Please read the bottom post in this thread for an explanation of the the benefits and design of the White Industries freewheel, and why it is the "ONLY" freewheel to be considered for a motorized bicycle application.

    I can typically get 6,000 kilometers (3,700 miles) out of a 67082RS bearing, but now change the bearing at around the 4,000 kilometer mark (2,500 miles) to guarantee a high level of bearing shell stability and 100% bearing reliability.

    More information below:
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2014