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Schwinn stingray Muffler routing

P

Patch

Guest
I have corrected my muffler problems with the help of prowler (thanks again :D ) but I have been fussing with the chain tensioner for a couple of weeks now. For the muffler that prowler made for me, you must have the chain tensioner on the inside of the rear fork...like so

however, this seems to make too small of a 'loop' of the chain and from my testing...the smaller the loop, the more tension of the bottom chain line upon releaseing the clutch. (is this hypothesis correct?) This means that when ever I tried to start it, there would be so much pressure on the tensioner, that it would bend, snap, or skew the bolt that holds the wheel. This causes the tension wheel to not spin and I have to walk back to the shop.
The earlier config. I had on my bike was with the tensioner on the underside of the fork, much like azVinnie's wtih which i had no trouble

So I want to have then tenisoner on the underside (as pictured above), but with the new muffler, the expansion chamber hits the returning side of the chain and partially hits the tensioner mount.



My question is... does anybody have an idea for adding a small chunk of pipe, bending, cutting a slot and bending to fill slot like on the intake tube...that will not completely reconfigure the muffler?
 


M

MotorbikeMike

Guest
chains and smooth running

this is redundant, I can tell you this, before your machine tells you it is complete, it is done.

Mike
 
M

MotorbikeMike

Guest
chains and smooth running

In the on the top position, shorten that chain, move the slack adjuster forward (if you intend to use it. Your goal is to never have more than 1/2 of your sprocket engaged in the chain, as it will want to "climb" the sprocket.

Mike, uber-newbie, still recovering from the head injury from falling off of the turnip truck.
 
P

Patch

Guest
thanks mike, but with the top picture mount...It always seems to break the bolt. I also have to watch the brake thing so I can't move it forward.

The chain is slack just becuase that was a mock-up not really set up :???: But im still stuck Its complete but done what a mind boggler :LOL: what exactly is 'climbing the sprocket?"

Is welding a need bend in it my only opption?
 
A

azvinnie

Guest
id go with the bend of the pipe, rather than cut and weld, good to know someone with a pipe bender right about now. from the pic it looks as if you could just bend it out a little and be good to go. anyways good luck 8)
 
P

prowler

Guest
Patch, I think that you can get around the problem by switching to the tensioner that uses 4 bolts to mount to the rear fork as it's quite a bit more heavy duty (I know, more money). That's the one we've been using since we set up our bike with no issues (tensioner over the top of the rear fork). I'd definately remove the rubber from the tensioner mounting to minimize the movement at the mount. You sure don't want the tensioner to get sucked into the spokes. Another thought is to reduce the size (dia) of your tensioner pulley (roller blade wheel?) which will allow you to move the tensioner farther forward and down (shorten the chain a couple links). Your theory on the loading of the tensioner and the angle of the chain is correct (you been taking trig or something?). If you go with the top mount, the way you've shown your tensioner mounted (outside the fork and resting against the top stay is a good idea. Can you up-size the tensioner pulley mounting bolt? I'll bet there are some mods you can make to the tensioner pulley bolt to strengthen it (larger washers, larger dia spacer between tensioner mount and pulley) . If you need some mods on the pipe let me know. No big deal to do a little bending and tweeking.
 
P

Patch

Guest
well I have tried the longer bolt for the tensioner on the outiside and above the fork. This only gives the chain more leverage and I think even with a tungsten bolt that'd snap or bend. :eek: I did put the old tensioner wheel on and put it inside and above the fork, that worked except the nut holding the tension wheel slipped so I need to rough it up.

I would really like to run the tensioner on the underside of the fork, due to the fact that it isn't bunching up the chain on the sprocket. I have shortened the chain and It is as low as it can go, but still the chain covers 3/4 of the sprocket.

Prowler, I think bending would be a good idea, however I now am friends with the welding instructor at WCTC just up the road, so Ill give him a call and if he can't get me into the shop...Ill give you a call.

So Ill see if the new inside/above fork setup will work.
 

mikaleno

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2008
Messages
94
Boy, I keep thinking the way to solve this is to remount the back brake lever on the top bracket of the swing arm (re-weld the holder). That way you can run the chain straight back and lose the dreaded tensioner once and for all. That sure would solve a lot of problems..... I don't know, I'm still skulling this out.
 

MotorMac

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
161
tensioner

Get rid of the tensioner altogether,you dont need it. Just remove a link or 2 from your chain, I can see from your bike pics you have lots of horizontal adjustment on your rear fork that you can tighten it no problem by pulling your back wheel back..The tensioners are a constant source of problems and you are better off without it.
 
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