Schwinnn yiiiing ying ying ying

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New build coming. Bare bones, bike with an engine and the chain guard lol. Thats it. Going to get a stretch and drop. May make my own springer seat. If the stupid occ chopper doesn't sell this weekend the fork legs are getting stolen from that. Big brakes are planned. Hope 225mm rotors. Would like hydraulic but that will take some work or a lot of cash. Been working on the new engine here and there. Another case reed but my way. It's going to be a slow start until the other bike is sorted.

 
Thanks for all the info! I was just going to copy the cranbrook headtube angle lol! Where did you get the headtube from? All I was finding was tapered road bike sh*t.

Been working on the i beam frame jig, among other things today. ADD like a mofo this weekend. Anyway the plan is to make brackets to weld the crank bearing cups to the jig. I think. The frame has too much rake. No measurements yet but you can see it. So once the headtube angle is changed the front of the frame will come up. The bottom bracket is low on this bike so I thought about just a stretch but it will need a drop just to keep the bottom bracket height. Basically the frame will rotate on the bottom bracket. The front will come up and in and the rear will go down and out. Was planning a 2 inch stretch but with the front wheel come in some it wilk probably end up around 3.5 inches. Lots of thinking to do. Hope this mess makes sense, was thinking as I typed.

I think I got it from nova cycles. It was listed as a thick walled mountain bike head tube and was considerably stiffer than the thin 1" headtube on the stock frame. Was super cheap, like $10, since its a big heavy tube and most high end bikes use much larger tapered tubes with way thinner walls for weight savings. Not many people looking to add weight to a bike they are building from scratch! OD is much more important than wall thickness as far as strength is concerned - just going from 1" to 1.125" diameter is something like 30% stiffer with the same exact material and wall thickness used. If you increase wall thickness at the same time, its even better. It was a very tight fit for my headset though...I ended up freezing the cups, heating the ends of the tube with a heat gun, and getting a huge 1/2" threaded rod and some massive washers and nuts to press the cups in. Set the bottom nut on vice and tightened the top one with a huge 1' adjustable wrench until they finally seated.

Rake doesn't look too aggressive on the cranbrook honestly, maybe 26-27* but its hard to tell from pic. I think the way the front fork is bent and kicks forward makes it look more extreme than it is. I wouldn't lessen it for fear of it getting twitchy at speed. If you're going for sporty, the baby Ninjas now use 25* rake instead of 27* for crazy fast turn in but they also have a 55.3" wheelbase and maintain 4.3" trail. Same trail on a 50" wheelbase bicycle would be more twitchy. I'd just plug in your wheelbase and fork length to a calculator and see what rake and triple tree length you need to get your trail around 4". You don't want it lazy like a chopper with 6" trail that doesn't want to turn, but you also don't want a super twitchy 25* rake with a short bicycle wheelbase and incorrect fork length or you'll end up with like 3" trail and the bike will be scary to ride - tiny handlebar movements will make dramatic direction changes. I might be pushing it with my 3.7" trail since 4" is minimum recommended but I'm hoping its "close enough" to not have any strange handling characteristics. Worse case scenario I can just adjust my triple tree height to bring it to 4"...like .5" rise brings the trail from 3.7" to 4" but I just like how it looks where its at lol. Keep in mind "0" trail is effectively a coaster wheel - imagine the front of your bike basically being a shopping cart :LOL:

Keep in mind I'm no frame engineer and have never made a frame from scratch before so don't take anything I say as a hard fact...but I have ridden and/or owned pretty much every motorcycle style, size, and type available from 250cc single cylinder cruisers to nitroused 1441cc ZX14R superbikes and everything in between and I have a good idea of how *I* like a bike to ride and how different riding positions and geometry effect how a bike feels. Basically, I think we are in the same boat - we know just enough to try things that may get ourselves in trouble lol.
 
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I measured it at 24° but that was with a magnetic angle finder. Need a 9v for my smart level. The headtube from the occ is 2mm wall. Found one somewhere that is 1.6 wall. Looking for closer to 3mm wall so I can put some heat into it and drag it over to the thin wall. Nice part about cheap bikes is the thicker tube. Anyway, plan on a tall headtube to add a gusset top and bottom with some 0.120 wall dom left over from my last truck. Speaking of dom, may orfer ywo hoops. One for the chainstays and the other for seatstays.
 
Just found 1 9/16 od x0.125 wall that is close frome metals depot. I'll have to hone it to size lol.
 
I measured it at 24° but that was with a magnetic angle finder. Need a 9v for my smart level. The headtube from the occ is 2mm wall. Found one somewhere that is 1.6 wall. Looking for closer to 3mm wall so I can put some heat into it and drag it over to the thin wall. Nice part about cheap bikes is the thicker tube. Anyway, plan on a tall headtube to add a gusset top and bottom with some 0.120 wall dom left over from my last truck. Speaking of dom, may orfer ywo hoops. One for the chainstays and the other for seatstays.
Just found 1 9/16 od x0.125 wall that is close frome metals depot. I'll have to hone it to size lol.
Thats freaking huge, the stock cruiser 1" head tube I measured was literally 1mm wall thickness...that tube is 3mm LOL! You measure that 2mm on the OCC at the flange where the headset goes? Maybe its tapered? Thats huge for a stock head tube. I have the 1.6mm wall chromo one. Its waayyy stronger than the 1" 1mm wall it replaced, at least double the strength plus I boxed it on top of that. 60% thicker walls, chromo vs mild steel, and 1.125 vs 1".

FWIW I've ordered from metalsdepot 2-3 times for other projects, they are great.
 
Thats freaking huge, the stock cruiser 1" head tube I measured was literally 1mm wall thickness...that tube is 3mm LOL! You measure that 2mm on the OCC at the flange where the headset goes? Maybe its tapered? Thats huge for a stock head tube. I have the 1.6mm wall chromo one. Its waayyy stronger than the 1" 1mm wall it replaced, at least double the strength plus I boxed it on top of that. 60% thicker walls, chromo vs mild steel, and 1.125 vs 1".

FWIW I've ordered from metalsdepot 2-3 times for other projects, they are great.
They used to be kinda slow with processing years ago but the prices aren't bad. Never heard of that size tube lol.

2mm was measured at the cups but there is no milling or taper. It's a shame though, the vent holes are at 90° to the seem. Not using that, dont want the seem on the side of the headtube. Found the 1.6 wall you have and may order that instead. Not sure just yet. Think I have to get forks before the frame mods. Having a hard time finding 1 1/8 triple trees forks. Getting a battery for the smart level today.
 
Bunch of parts came in. Stupid stuff like side covers, couple of magnetos. Did get a few of yhe new style large round port exhaust gaskets from BMW. 24mm hole and has room for 26 or 27mm. Can't wait to try them out! Clutch plate and pads along with the 5.5cc Fred head are here. Ordered a Comp Cams spring for the clutch. Technically it will fit but we will see. If it works I'll post a link.





Been thinking about the frame and think the down tube is getting swapped out for a straight piece of dom. It might look odd but that's fine. Was looking around for steel, dirt jumping mtb frames. Long and low but not what I want to spend. So it looks like the top tube, seat tube and cantilever bars will be stockish.
 
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