Scooter/bike hybrid

[capturedbyrobots]

I'm well on the way to being ready for testing.

This is mostly a mock up for now.
Everything is welded and drilled,
but I have NO fittings.... I used them all on my bots, or extra for the bots...

So, a trip to the hardware store tomorrow should get me done.

I mounted a gas tank, hooked the rear motor assembly
to the seat post with that trail a bike hookup.
got 2 side mounts ready for fittings,


Then , all there is left is to run throttle and kill up to the handlebars,
and paint it up.


Hope you like...

Oh, BTW......
I know the exhaust shouldn't be over the tire, and I'll be
bending or cutting and welding the tuned pipe
to kick out exhaust more to the side.
If oil drips onto the tire, that would be bad for a friction drive setup.

http://www.capturedbyrobots.com/images/bikemotor.jpg

 

[srdavo]

Looking good.

keep us posted!!

 

[Alaskavan]

Cool. Good work. I bet she'll run good too.

 

[capturedbyrobots]

Do you guys think I should run the rear stabilizing
bars off the axle nuts, or will those little threaded tab areas be ok?

They will mostly be to stop the motor from jumping up and down

I'm wondering if I should use something instead like a spring system
or turnbuckles....to pull the motor spindle assembly against the wheel....

 

[Hive]

One Last Item

Ejection seat?

Gotta love it!

Keep us posted.

Robots rule!

 

[Alaskavan]

The "little threaded tab areas" are what's used to stabilize the rack on a Staton kit. I have managed to break a stabilizer bar, but have had no problem with the connection to the frame. I only ordered one stabilizer bar with my kit, and have installed a chain and turnbuckle on the other side. It works well. I didn't use a spring. I don't want the engine to be able to bounce, no matter how bad I abuse it. There's a thread around somewhere that shows how I beefed up stabilization (I ride very rough roads, and go off-road sometimes).

 

[capturedbyrobots]

Ok, well I did the turnbuckle thing,
and tried it today.
It works pretty good, it would be much better if
I didn't live in very hilly country (San Francisco)
In a flat area, it would be awesome.

The 1.6 scrubber can pull me up the steep hill, but it drags pretty bad
because it never gets to it's power band
so I need to grind the spindle smaller, or try a higher rpm engaging
clutch spring.

I think maybe I'll take it down to about 1.4 and
see how it does. If it still has no power, I'll go down more.
I also need to get a smooth strong tire for the back.
Mine is knobby....
Any particular tires that are better that you guys suggest?

 

[capturedbyrobots]

Oh, I forgot to mention,
I burned my leg on that darn pipe.
I have to get some pipe wrap.

As well, I am mostly a "stand up goped"
kind of guy.
It feels so strange to sit while riding.
My seat is buzzing like crazy. Has anyone here done any
DIY seat vibration dampener shocks?

Here's shots of the rear before testing.
http://www.capturedbyrobots.com/images/bikefinal.jpg

 

[Alaskavan]

I'm switching to a 1.25" roller to get more bottom end and better hill climbing on my Trek. I tried Armadillo tires, but the steel friction roller I use ate them up. That might not be a problem with the skateboard wheels. I switched to City Slicks, and am happy with them.
Yesterday I ordered a shock absorber seatpost from Bike Nashbar:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=5084
I haven't heard of anyone making their own.

 

[capturedbyrobots]

I might go that low too.
Here's a question.
If I were to make my spindle assembly arced,
so it followed the contour of the new slicker tire,
where would I measure it to figure out the correct size?
I'm assuming the middle, yes?

Oh, and I will be doing/getting a seat post like that.
Please post whether it just work for bumps, or
if it works well for vibration too.....