Second build

[Wyatt. A.]

That’s exactly what I need to do.
The 2x4 should be cut to size I want to widen to? For example if I needed to be 6” wide I need a 6” wide 2x4.

Heat up both side where I want bend and and slide 2x4 into where the wheel goes? It’s much easier to see these kind of things done than read an explanation. One way or another I’m getting the wheel one, just want to make sure I know what I am doing first.

Oh, is it for a wider tire size? Or for the hub?

 

[Jayraye39]

The frame is steel but I am not sure what you mean. Spacer nuts? On the inside of the dropouts. The tire is 2.75/17R. There should be no rubbing issues once wheel is on.


I do have a welder but not sure if I have the skills yet. I just got it and haven’t used a welder in about 15 yrs.

I was reading Sheldon Brown and his website said to use a 2x4 as a lever against the seat tube to bend them. That seems like it would be likely to bend uneven. How would you guys recommend bending? Heating up and both sides and pulling equally with both hands?

The crossbar is not a structural support for the frame only for the rear Forks so it's really not a big deal if you don't weld very good put your welder on the lowest setting which is either A or 1 put your wire speed at 2 -2.5. If running a bead on the thin metal tubing is a problem for you just tack and then overlap your tacks one after the other. Very simple

 

[Jayraye39]

The crossbar is not a structural support for the frame only for the rear Forks so it's really not a big deal if you don't weld very good put your welder on the lowest setting which is either A or 1 put your wire speed at 2 -2.5. If running a bead on the thin metal tubing is a problem for you just tack and then overlap your tacks one after the other. Very simple

If you go with the stretching idea you got to remember you have to over stretch it just a bit in order for it to fit where you want it if you stretch it exactly the width it will still retain some giveness back and you will still be short your spacing over stretch about a quarter inch total

 

[Zoom555]

Oh, is it for a wider tire size? Or for the hub?

Both are wider but need to stretch it for the hub.

If you go with the stretching idea you got to remember you have to over stretch it just a bit in order for it to fit where you want it if you stretch it exactly the width it will still retain some giveness back and you will still be short your spacing over stretch about a quarter inch total

Yeah that makes sense. As soon as it warms up I’m gonna get it done

 

[Chainlube]

Cut a short piece of 2x4, 1/2" longer than your chain stay's width at the spot where the tire would be while riding. Radius both ends and wedge that in the chain stay to where the tire would normally ride, if it seems to be spreading the drop outs too much, then just shorten it. Then get a piece of all thread and a couple nuts to bring the chain stay back to the width of your axle and wheel. Now with it in a fixed position, warm up the chain stays on both sides and they'll just bend to that radius. They don't even need to be red hot.

Goes easy when pushing the stick in between the stays so you don't kink them.

 

[Zoom555]

Cut a short piece of 2x4, 1/2" longer than your chain stay's width at the spot where the tire would be while riding. Radius both ends and wedge that in the chain stay to where the tire would normally ride, if it seems to be spreading the drop outs too much, then just shorten it. Then get a piece of all thread and a couple nuts to bring the chain stay back to the width of your axle and wheel. Now with it in a fixed position, warm up the chain stays on both sides and they'll just bend to that radius. They don't even need to be red hot.

Goes easy when pushing the stick in between the stays so you don't kink them.

What do you mean by radius the ends?

By adding the wood block and heating the chain stays the metal will bend itself?

 

[Chainlube]

What do you mean by radius the ends?

By adding the wood block and heating the chain stays the metal will bend itself?

You don't want to force a square corner in there, or you might kink the frame. Just round it off, belt sander works good.

 

[Nickt919]

The photo below....the shocks bolted to the seat....it looks like the brace for the banana seat has been cut. Then a piece of that pipe is used as a spacer to extend the bottom of the shock down to the drop out and bolted up.

Am I seeing this the way I describe?

If this is correct...what will stop the shock and pipe from buckling at that joint? What's to keep it all in a straight line in use?

If I'm seeing it wrong.... I apologize. But then...., If the pipe below the shock is just a spacer bolted onto the shock bottom on one end and drop out on the other end there may be a problem with that arrangement.

 

[Zoom555]

What do you mean by radius the ends?

By adding the wood block and heating the chain stays the metal will bend itself?

Ok cool. Thank you. That’s what I was thinking but wanted to make sure it wasn’t some fancy cut I didn’t know about. Haha!

Unfortunately, it’ll be a few weeks until I get this done. I spent my bike budget on wheels/breaks and forks. I don’t have a torch yet.

 

[Zoom555]

The photo below....the shocks bolted to the seat....it looks like the brace for the banana seat has been cut. Then a piece of that pipe is used as a spacer to extend the bottom of the shock down to the drop out and bolted up.

Am I seeing this the way I describe?

If this is correct...what will stop the shock and pipe from buckling at that joint? What's to keep it all in a straight line in use?

If I'm seeing it wrong.... I apologize. But then...., If the pipe below the shock is just a spacer bolted onto the shock bottom on one end and drop out on the other end there may be a problem with that arrangement.

I cut the bottom off a banana seat sissy bar and drilled a hole through it. Then I bolted it to the shock. The peice is not a spacer. It is part of the shock. It does not move because sissy bar is mounted flush and has nowhere to move to