EsQueue
Member
My first ebike build started out as a single gear 700c bike with flippable rear wheel. A 36v front wheel hub kit with throttle and Pedal assist. Oh yeah, and my diy 10s10p battery (100 18650 cells). This was built from 20 hoverboard battery packs and a DIY spot welder made from a free broken Craigslist microwave. The range isn't and was never a problem due to the ridiculous sized battery. I then realized the pros and cons of my build.
The Pros:
1.) I loved the range so I'd have to stick with 10p.
2.)I really like having very large diameter rims such as the 700c.
The Cons:
1.) It wasn't fast enough at times. I remedied that my building a 3s10p battery pack and wiring it up in series with my 10s10p for a jump from approximately 36 to 48 volts.It was definitely fast enough but that exacerbated my second issue
2.) being single speed meant that I had to chose a gear that I can accelerate but I may have to sacrifice my top end assisting when the bike is going full speed. I would have to pedal as fast as I possibly could to keep up with the bike at max speed at 36 volts. It was impossible to even try at 48 volts.
3.) Due to small diameter, narrow tires and lack of suspension, the bike took bumps HARD! I would have to prepare and lighten the load on the wheels my standing and using my arms and legs as a shock absorber which I actually got good at at slow speeds but was impossible to do when going fast. Even repaired cracks in the road was too much and I would have to avoid some paths.
I decided to use what I know to build another bike. A full suspension 29er(same rim diameter as the 700c) mountain bike. It's a mid-drive BBSHD kit. This pretty much fixes all that I disliked about my first bike. There are nine different levels which affect throttle power and pedal assist power. I used my 48v battery setup that I built for my other bike and threw in a LiFePO4 144 cell battery in the old bike which is still rated at 48 volts. The old kit would send battery voltage to the headlights when you turned the lights on via the controls. The BBSHD sends 5v .5A ampt to the light output. The lights that I have can run on 12-70 volts so I used a solid state relay to make use of the measly 5 volts and half an amp.
The Pros:
1.) I loved the range so I'd have to stick with 10p.
2.)I really like having very large diameter rims such as the 700c.
The Cons:
1.) It wasn't fast enough at times. I remedied that my building a 3s10p battery pack and wiring it up in series with my 10s10p for a jump from approximately 36 to 48 volts.It was definitely fast enough but that exacerbated my second issue
2.) being single speed meant that I had to chose a gear that I can accelerate but I may have to sacrifice my top end assisting when the bike is going full speed. I would have to pedal as fast as I possibly could to keep up with the bike at max speed at 36 volts. It was impossible to even try at 48 volts.
3.) Due to small diameter, narrow tires and lack of suspension, the bike took bumps HARD! I would have to prepare and lighten the load on the wheels my standing and using my arms and legs as a shock absorber which I actually got good at at slow speeds but was impossible to do when going fast. Even repaired cracks in the road was too much and I would have to avoid some paths.
I decided to use what I know to build another bike. A full suspension 29er(same rim diameter as the 700c) mountain bike. It's a mid-drive BBSHD kit. This pretty much fixes all that I disliked about my first bike. There are nine different levels which affect throttle power and pedal assist power. I used my 48v battery setup that I built for my other bike and threw in a LiFePO4 144 cell battery in the old bike which is still rated at 48 volts. The old kit would send battery voltage to the headlights when you turned the lights on via the controls. The BBSHD sends 5v .5A ampt to the light output. The lights that I have can run on 12-70 volts so I used a solid state relay to make use of the measly 5 volts and half an amp.
