iRide Customs
Member
I think one key thing in the longevity of these engines would be owner care. Seems like if it's taken care of, they last quite a while.
Serious question about Chinese engine kits ??????
- Thread starter Esteban
- Start date
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thatsdax
Guest
Cheap? hummm.........
Cheap? Not sure that is the right word. Inexpensive for sure.... Reliable? You bet ! Lets see... I have around 4,500 miles on mine. So far...I have had to, replace the Idler pulley wheel once, Intake Gasket once " using a cereal box cardboard for that" , ...and........ And...I am thinking.....humm........o yea... Spark Plug once, ... and.........o yea..Swaped in another exhaust. Did not feel like cleaning the old one out. so..There went the exhaust gasket too. and..That has been it. I check my nuts and bolts..They are staying tight. Never use loc tight. Rookies use that stuff. Had to fix numerous flats. Each time putting in another layer of urethane rubber to protect it from thorns. Back tire weighs a lot now. Front tire too. I have these new solid tubes that never go flat. Next flat. One is going in. Then I will test it. Expensive things. 26 bucks. But hey.. Your question is both Valid..and curious. I mean.. Some are junk. I have bought them. Never sold them. I could never sell anything that I do not believe in. The engines I sell are tested by our factory Engineers before they are ever marketed. Ever !!! That goes for everything we sell. M13's, D4's, 25XX, FM's, Bikes, Motorcycles, Scooters, and the list goes on. Yes..That is right.. We Sell M13's and D4's. and engines too. And..We have fun doing it. If it is fun. and it is good.... Then..I am there. !!! So..Yes... In aggregate....And..Now that I think about it. I do take offense to your Blanket statement. Why? Because..We do not sell Cheap stuff, or Junk. If Dax Sells it .. Then..Rest assured ...It is top shelf stuff !!! We sell service and we back what we sell ! SO THERE !!! Enjoy the ride...
Cheap? Not sure that is the right word. Inexpensive for sure.... Reliable? You bet ! Lets see... I have around 4,500 miles on mine. So far...I have had to, replace the Idler pulley wheel once, Intake Gasket once " using a cereal box cardboard for that" , ...and........ And...I am thinking.....humm........o yea... Spark Plug once, ... and.........o yea..Swaped in another exhaust. Did not feel like cleaning the old one out. so..There went the exhaust gasket too. and..That has been it. I check my nuts and bolts..They are staying tight. Never use loc tight. Rookies use that stuff. Had to fix numerous flats. Each time putting in another layer of urethane rubber to protect it from thorns. Back tire weighs a lot now. Front tire too. I have these new solid tubes that never go flat. Next flat. One is going in. Then I will test it. Expensive things. 26 bucks. But hey.. Your question is both Valid..and curious. I mean.. Some are junk. I have bought them. Never sold them. I could never sell anything that I do not believe in. The engines I sell are tested by our factory Engineers before they are ever marketed. Ever !!! That goes for everything we sell. M13's, D4's, 25XX, FM's, Bikes, Motorcycles, Scooters, and the list goes on. Yes..That is right.. We Sell M13's and D4's. and engines too. And..We have fun doing it. If it is fun. and it is good.... Then..I am there. !!! So..Yes... In aggregate....And..Now that I think about it. I do take offense to your Blanket statement. Why? Because..We do not sell Cheap stuff, or Junk. If Dax Sells it .. Then..Rest assured ...It is top shelf stuff !!! We sell service and we back what we sell ! SO THERE !!! Enjoy the ride...
azbill
Active Member
sounds like we struck a nerve 
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lotsa_mpg
Guest
Re: Cheap? hummm.........
I'm extremely pleased with my Dax 70.......still running great after around 600 miles, in fact it keeps running better and better all the time. I changed the plug a couple days ago, but didn't need to... it was just my way of saying thank you to that little engine.....But I have to ask, just what do you have against using Locktite? I've used it for decades on anything and everything and have never seen any problems arise from it's use. Ok, maybe it's a little more difficult to disassemble something that was put together with Locktite applied, but therein lies the reason for using it.
thatsdax said:
I'm extremely pleased with my Dax 70.......still running great after around 600 miles, in fact it keeps running better and better all the time. I changed the plug a couple days ago, but didn't need to... it was just my way of saying thank you to that little engine.....But I have to ask, just what do you have against using Locktite? I've used it for decades on anything and everything and have never seen any problems arise from it's use. Ok, maybe it's a little more difficult to disassemble something that was put together with Locktite applied, but therein lies the reason for using it.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: Cheap? hummm.........
If Loctite is for rookies, then call me a rookie with 30 years of experience and my nuts have never fallen off.
I have never had to replace/repair anything because of the liberal use of Loctite.
It's O.K. to admit these engines shake and vibrate a little, because they do. So do all small single cylinder engines.
lotsa_mpg said:
If Loctite is for rookies, then call me a rookie with 30 years of experience and my nuts have never fallen off.
I have never had to replace/repair anything because of the liberal use of Loctite.
It's O.K. to admit these engines shake and vibrate a little, because they do. So do all small single cylinder engines.
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thatsdax
Guest
ok.. Looks like I struck a nerve.
ok. When it comes to these little motors, Loc Tight is not needed, and does more damage than good and will void any and all warranty. I too have been in motors since the early 70's. Now you guys are forcing me to date my self. Happy yet? anyway. This is what loc tight does and prevents you from doing with these little motors. Most of the nuts and bolts are small on these motors. These are small motors.. Using loc tight will seize up these small nuts and bolts. I realize that loc tight can prevent a nut or a bolt from coming lose. But..IT also prevents you from making them tighter as the motor breaks in. I have had a few perfectly good motors returned for what ever reason, to only have them ruined when the previous owner used loc tight and would not allow the removal of certain bolts. When attempting the remove the small little bolts from the engine caused them the shear off inside the block causing major trauma and depression on my part. Loc tight is not needed anywhere on these small engines. It just is not needed.. Period !!! Look.. You guys... Here is what you do. This is what I do. For engine mounts, use two nuts and loc them together. This works a million times better than loc tight. You should have plenty of thread on the motor mount studs to use two nuts and simply lock them together. I can not think of any other place a person needs any locking anything on these motors. Maybe exhaust. Since the intake uses acorns, I guess you could remove the acorn and put on two nuts and loc them. Never needed to do it there or on the exhaust. I use two nuts on the mounting studs for added strength, and since they are locked together or binded together, they never come lose. Ever. I have done the same on my DeCoster Replica for the rear sprocket. Keeps the Sprocket bolts from coming out and hitting the swing Arm and shearing off the rear hub. Yikes !! .. In aggregate, This is what I am saying. Loc tight has never been needed for me on any of my Installs. Never. I do not own any lock tight. As a matter of fact, I own some Anti seize to put on some of my threads. MY fear is not being able to remove things when needed. I still can not figure out why you guys are needing lock tight. I hear it all the time in here, and I shiver when I hear it. I just know that when others hear it, they are putting lock tight on their mounting studs into the motor, side covers.. Who knows where they are putting it. okokok.. I have exhausted the subject. I am beating a dead horse.. Look... Try locking two nuts together first. Then..After your warranty expires, use the loc tight methodology if you wish. All I am saying is.... Loc tight has its place.. But..I have not seen a place on these small engines that would ever facilitate its use. And..I know you guys are not Rookies. But..I said that to strike a nerve and hopefully get you to stop using loc tight on these motors. You may not be a rookie, but using loc tight on these little harmless motors can be a rookie mistake. A terrible rookie mistake for sure. so.. Use the two nut lock method and get out there an ride.. and.. Enjoy the ride !!!
ok. When it comes to these little motors, Loc Tight is not needed, and does more damage than good and will void any and all warranty. I too have been in motors since the early 70's. Now you guys are forcing me to date my self. Happy yet? anyway. This is what loc tight does and prevents you from doing with these little motors. Most of the nuts and bolts are small on these motors. These are small motors.. Using loc tight will seize up these small nuts and bolts. I realize that loc tight can prevent a nut or a bolt from coming lose. But..IT also prevents you from making them tighter as the motor breaks in. I have had a few perfectly good motors returned for what ever reason, to only have them ruined when the previous owner used loc tight and would not allow the removal of certain bolts. When attempting the remove the small little bolts from the engine caused them the shear off inside the block causing major trauma and depression on my part. Loc tight is not needed anywhere on these small engines. It just is not needed.. Period !!! Look.. You guys... Here is what you do. This is what I do. For engine mounts, use two nuts and loc them together. This works a million times better than loc tight. You should have plenty of thread on the motor mount studs to use two nuts and simply lock them together. I can not think of any other place a person needs any locking anything on these motors. Maybe exhaust. Since the intake uses acorns, I guess you could remove the acorn and put on two nuts and loc them. Never needed to do it there or on the exhaust. I use two nuts on the mounting studs for added strength, and since they are locked together or binded together, they never come lose. Ever. I have done the same on my DeCoster Replica for the rear sprocket. Keeps the Sprocket bolts from coming out and hitting the swing Arm and shearing off the rear hub. Yikes !! .. In aggregate, This is what I am saying. Loc tight has never been needed for me on any of my Installs. Never. I do not own any lock tight. As a matter of fact, I own some Anti seize to put on some of my threads. MY fear is not being able to remove things when needed. I still can not figure out why you guys are needing lock tight. I hear it all the time in here, and I shiver when I hear it. I just know that when others hear it, they are putting lock tight on their mounting studs into the motor, side covers.. Who knows where they are putting it. okokok.. I have exhausted the subject. I am beating a dead horse.. Look... Try locking two nuts together first. Then..After your warranty expires, use the loc tight methodology if you wish. All I am saying is.... Loc tight has its place.. But..I have not seen a place on these small engines that would ever facilitate its use. And..I know you guys are not Rookies. But..I said that to strike a nerve and hopefully get you to stop using loc tight on these motors. You may not be a rookie, but using loc tight on these little harmless motors can be a rookie mistake. A terrible rookie mistake for sure. so.. Use the two nut lock method and get out there an ride.. and.. Enjoy the ride !!!
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thatsdax
Guest
Quick Follow up
Here is what is happening, you experts "non rookies" know exactly where and when to use loc tight. To use loc tight properly you need to be an expert. There are places you can use it and get away with it just fine. There is red and blue and other degrees of lock tight. True.. But..Here is the problem. We have a lot of newbies. First time engine owners of any kind of engine owning, they hear about loc tight and go nuts with the stuff. and...They ruin the motor with it. That is the problem. Thanks..Enjoy the ride..
Here is what is happening, you experts "non rookies" know exactly where and when to use loc tight. To use loc tight properly you need to be an expert. There are places you can use it and get away with it just fine. There is red and blue and other degrees of lock tight. True.. But..Here is the problem. We have a lot of newbies. First time engine owners of any kind of engine owning, they hear about loc tight and go nuts with the stuff. and...They ruin the motor with it. That is the problem. Thanks..Enjoy the ride..
J
JosephGarcia
Guest
For the sake of not starting an aurgument, this post has been edited.
bamabikeguy
Active Member
I'm in the Dax camp, sorry.
This is worthy of a seperate topic, DANGERS OF LOCKTITE.
MB.com members should not use the permanant type (red) under any circumstances. And I'm such a novice, I can't even be sure red is the danger sign, I should run to the shop and double check (but I won't)
When I have a wheel in perfect placement, I put the smallest micron of blue, not to seal it but only to prevent it backing off under high speed/stress.
If somebody bought the wrong tube, because the guy at the hardware store worked at McDonalds last week, then put it on all those motor bolts, there would be dire consequences and an unhappy rider.
I do occassional "double bolting", not only for securing something, but there is the handiest place to keep emergency spares (since everything seems to be 10 or 11 mm.)
Dax's advise is best for newbies, I think, and again, I advise this concept is worthy of a seperate topic.
This is worthy of a seperate topic, DANGERS OF LOCKTITE.
MB.com members should not use the permanant type (red) under any circumstances. And I'm such a novice, I can't even be sure red is the danger sign, I should run to the shop and double check (but I won't)
When I have a wheel in perfect placement, I put the smallest micron of blue, not to seal it but only to prevent it backing off under high speed/stress.
If somebody bought the wrong tube, because the guy at the hardware store worked at McDonalds last week, then put it on all those motor bolts, there would be dire consequences and an unhappy rider.
I do occassional "double bolting", not only for securing something, but there is the handiest place to keep emergency spares (since everything seems to be 10 or 11 mm.)
Dax's advise is best for newbies, I think, and again, I advise this concept is worthy of a seperate topic.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks for (finally) clearing the air on the Loctite subject Dax...I was wondering why you had the antiLoctite fixation.
That DOES make sence.
I, howeva, am an "expert".
That DOES make sence.
I, howeva, am an "expert".
