Setting up R/S35

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by larymor, Aug 16, 2007.

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  1. larymor

    larymor Guest

    OK guys...I'm waiting for the ups guy to drop off my r/s35 today ( gettin' nervous ) its my first setup. Gonna run get some ties for the spokes and no corn gas b4 he gets here. I decided to use the stock wheel on a stock Vertical MB with full suspension bought it at fleet farm ( big retail store ) for $100 . I already had the bike and after observing you guys for a while from the bush's, I decided to post my experience for all to see. Here is my bike before kit install.

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  2. larymor

    larymor Guest

    tying the spokes

    Went and bought some ties and no corn gas ( No Ethanol ) which BAMA recommends. Got the no corn at Tesoro station right down the street. I think they are the old Standard station. Here is a pic of me putting on the ties. Seems to work best to get em tight using a needle nose to hold the big part of the tie and a visegrip like a fulcrum to pull tight. Wheres the ups guy?? :cool:

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  3. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Okay sport, the only way those spokes are gonna last is getting that spokering snapped on and centered, and you've read up on Jim H. "Just Cruising".

    You need a hose clamp, the size of the handlebars, to hold on the thottle when that time comes. You'll have to grind a bit off the sides, maybe one inch of the strap, to fit it in the throttle and pull it thru with your needlenose.

    Just unhook the back brake cable completely, let it flop out of the way, that will be the last thing you'll put back together, makes getting the tire on and off easier. You may have to adjust the pads some, but you won't know until the end.

    Start with the spokering. Get that part right and you MIGHT make the skinny spokes work for a while.

    Check the four holes on the end of the strap, make sure the middle two especially, fit over the bolt in the mount. Last ones I put on had to be bored out a bit, better to know beforehand. If the strap holes fit over the bolt, then attach the strap to the bike first, (when you put the axle mount on, you slip the front of the engine mount in the second or third hole.)

    Like I said, you'll probably have to do the axle mounting twice to get it just right...

    We'll be standing by if something comes up.
  4. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    btw: what are you going to attach the front strap to? the bikeframe or twisting it and attaching it to the saddle bolt?

    If you are attaching to the frame, you may need access to a tap&die set, to bore a hole into the frame, with locktite to hold the bolts securely in...

    If you are twisting it, you will have to bore the hole in the strap a little wider to fit the bolt thru.

    Twisting is easier, but check those holes !

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  5. larymor

    larymor Guest

    attaching front strap

    I was gonna attach it to the hole in the frame below the rubber boot of the rear brake...I think it is for a fender and it goes all the way through the tube, so i can use a bolt and nut...The place I was gonna put it is part of the rear end of the bike and would move with the engine and suspension. maybe I should get a different wheel BAMA b4 I continue...dont wanna crash and burn. Might have to get the beer out..I,m thinkin, too hard.

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  6. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Nah, you're too excited, to get the FULL experience, teach others, you MUST go on the skinny spokes!! Later you can switch wheels and warn others to do the same !

    Anyway, I see where you are attaching the strap, GEBE includes an 90 degree angle, which would go on the FRONT of that bar, so the bar is extra support. If you put it on the back of the bar, it might freakishly pull away, but on the front its sturdier. Then attach the strap after you've checked the bore on those 4 holes, so you can't tilt the engine to any position without future hassle.
  7. larymor

    larymor Guest

    The snag the spokering on and that went well..just kinda fell into place with a few dry runs around the wheel. snapped it on at the 12oclock position..then six, nine and three...then finished off by going from side to side. The front mount strap that keeps the engine from moving, well.... holes were too small where it bolts to the engine..had to ream em out like BAMA advised earlier, so check these b4 install. Now to the snag. After I put the lower mount strap on I was ready to slip the engine on the rear axle..and within a few more minutes b cruisin..Alas...not to be. The rear axle is too short by at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
    I could get it on but the nut was only about four turns..or halfway onto the threads. No crashing please!! pic 1 is bottom of engine and front mount strap with too small holes. 2 is is thicker on the gear side where the derailer mounts. 3 is the too short axle. 4 is the finished wheel. This is a 21 speed MB....any advice is appreciated. Now its beer time.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 16, 2007
  8. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Lemme get this straight....

    the axle mount, putting the wheel in the slot, does the spokering clear the frame? Fingertightened, does the wheel spin freely?

    And when you tighten the nuts (still without the axle mount), barely any of the axle is sticking out to spare? In otherwords, it was barely long enough before thinking about the engine?

    If so, the choices are new longer axle, or go ahead and get the 12 gauge wheel, but thats where the clearance mentioned above is important, the 12 gauge wheel is a bit thicker....

    Not to worry yet, but the axle length is a dead end.
  9. larymor

    larymor Guest

    The snagerro

    Yeah...the axle is too short. There was barley enough there when I started. The clearances all look good though. So where for an axle and what kind? I see you mention the Workman 12gauge. How much is much thicker... and I dont wanna wait for two weeks...WAH!! Summer is short here Bama and I wanna ride!!
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 16, 2007
  10. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    bikeshops can usually get them through J & B importers in one or two days, $30-40. Specify the one that takes the 7 speed cassette. Should be able to order via the phone if you tell the owner your predicament.

    I'm going ahead now with overkill, punctureproof tubes on the rear ($10) and Mr. Tuffies ($17) a pair.

    btw- you can save yourself some money and hassle by carrying along the old wheel with you when you pick up the new one. It takes a special socket to take off the sprocket/cassette, and the bike shop owner could switch it over in a minute or so.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2007
  11. larymor

    larymor Guest

    Axle too short

    Went to the bikeshop with the rear wheel only 2day and he says they can probably make some changes to the hub...move parts around..take out some washers..move the axle to the right a bit...blah blah, but I dont see that working either as that will change the clearance of the drive ring to the frame..he is aware of that and mentioned it. They were friendly and open to my dilemma and he talked about the pressure exerted on the spokes by human power vs engine power when I brought up the idea of a 12gauge workman wheel. His opinion was that the spokes/wheel I had would be OK to use, as human power on the rear wheel at the gear cluster point exerted more pressure at a higher failure point than a 33cc engine could at the point where the ring is. They dont have a longer axle. He asked me to bring the whole kit and caboodle down there and they would try and make it work for me for $15 or $20 !?!?! WOW !! I ain't got nothin to lose on thet deal !! I am also thinking about a direct frame mount....that would solve the problem for $0 more money...but I am scared of screwing up the mount. Thoughts??
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 17, 2007
  12. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Having them help you is good, but GEBE recommends 12 & 14 gauge over 16, and so do most of the GEBErs on And that switchover is about $35.

    Sam has a good diagram of "frame mounting", and in those axle mounting links I put up, there were two or three more. That would get you running, and probably be transferable to a different bike down the road.

    BUT, if the spokes didn't hold up, you'd have to upgrade to 12 gauge in addition anyway.

    If you had to replace the axle mount, that would be a future consideration probably costing $30-40 (I don't know the price off-hand)
  13. larymor

    larymor Guest

    Off and running!!

    Hey Guys !! spokes are 14 gauge. I decided to frame mount the engine and it turned out good. Need to do a little adjusting as the belt is a bit off whack but not bad. When I cut the legs down on the mount I got it off by a little but I can move one side up or down to compensate with a little reaming out of the holes I made for the frame mount. Just came in from my first ride and too excited to post much now...will post pics of what I did, and more info later. All I can say for now is WOW!!! GOTTA GO!! SUNS STILL UP!!
  14. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Good deal Lars,

    remember to vary the speed for breaking in, and remember what folks have said about 4 cycles not going full throttle for long periods.

    Things will get smoother in about 150 miles, trust us.
  15. larymor

    larymor Guest

    cool beans baby!!

    Wow!! Dont even think twice about getting this GEBE kit !! I put on 22 miles 2nite and it was TOO COOL !! All the little kids I passed were grinning ear to ear and all the ADULTS were waving and ...Hey are our kinda people!! I dont know what it is but everybody loves it!! Really !! Maybe its the green thing or something..I dont know. Exhausted...gotta go nitey nite but will post more 2morrow. :D
    PS...Bama..thanks for all your help and support!!
  16. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Great Info!!

    Bama' I have went through EVERY ASPECT of what larymor is going through a year ago!

    I even remember bringing that new Schwinn Bicycle home & realizing I would have to take it back due to those STUPID inward curves that would not allow room for the ring.

    (At least he did not make this mistake!)

    & I remember going to the liquor store as the sun was setting (after wasting several hours & a beautiful day) because I was so frustrated that I was not riding & looking at a kit with a million UNANSWERED questions & variables.

    Finally through getting the FULL experience....I learned alot the HARD WAY...but I learned.
    & I broke quite a few spokes in the process!

    What a Godsend you & your knowledge are for people moving in this direction of "motorizing a bicycle"

    Last year could have been so much more productive & less stressful had I known of this site & it's members!

    BTW, I have settled on a bicycle.
    I don't know if you would aprove, but it seems to be a fine bicycle & is first & foremost COMFORTABLE!

    Will mount the Robin on it (for the time being/a week or so) but I know I will move up to the Tanaka.
    The Robin is just so "mellow" IMO.
    I want to fly!

    I will PM you a message about selling it & hope you are still interested.
    I WILL be keeping the mount though as it will be pretty simple to attach the new motor where the old motor was etc.
    Don't want to move backwards & waste anymore time!!

    Anyway, just wanted to take the time to compliment the site & you Bama'
    for all the good you do!

  17. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Not a problem, glad to help.

    It's more fun as more GEBE'rs and potential GEBE'rs come aboard, and the potentials can read these threads and gain experience just by asking the right question.

    Like I didn't know until the end of this thread that Lars had 14 gauge spokes which is the minimum strength necessary. Jim's blowout is a whole different story, but good to know.

    And Lars and Sams frame-mounting have given me insight at the same time, I might just start doing that myself.

    Never too old to learn new things.
  18. perry44

    perry44 Guest

    I don't know about 29 inch tires, but I do know this.
    I bought the kit in feburary and have been running it hard.
    The guys at the shop are excellent help but its not really user friendly. After the truck hit me the belt would not track at all and no matter what I tried (twisting thew rack , moving it up and down on the axel, washers under the bolts trying to change the angle) nothing worked. That was the first 10 mile hike i hade to take pushing the bike home. I bought thier wheel along with the kit and I guess I was too hard on it even though I dont off road it or anything other running it hard on the streets, becase it is trashed now. I had an extra 36 spoke wheel here and am, trying to put thier ring on and no luck! So I went looking for a new wheel and found one at REIs and was going to buy it and then remembered it couldn't have a quick disconnect. So I had the bike shop guy put the old axel from GBEs wheel into the new wheel , after walking home 4 miles to get the old wheel!!! well, luckly they were open yesterday and i walked up there and picked the wheel up and brought it home, thinking all right i will have my only transpo back tomorrow. NO LUCK!!!((( The ring doesnt fit on the new wheel either so i called thier shop and they swear it will fit on any 36 spoke wheel but I am SO STUPID I cant fit it on this one either..,. Looks like I will need to order a new wheel and ring from them for another 125+. You know I love this thing when it is running but I tell you what. You got to be an expert in bike and engineering to keep it running. So far a new rack and belt, (that took 3 weeks to get here). and now a new wheel and ring.(((((
  19. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    Larymore, got any pics of the frame mount?(so excited he can't stand still)
  20. Starrman15

    Starrman15 Guest

    Spoke gauges....

    Bama' what gauge are my spokes on on the wheel I purchased from GEBE?

    I would assume they are fairly strong as Dennis reccomended it.

    I'd measure them myself....must be a tool for that??