Setting up R/S35

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larymor

Guest
OK guys...I'm waiting for the ups guy to drop off my r/s35 today ( gettin' nervous ) its my first setup. Gonna run get some ties for the spokes and no corn gas b4 he gets here. I decided to use the stock wheel on a stock Vertical MB with full suspension bought it at fleet farm ( big retail store ) for $100 . I already had the bike and after observing you guys for a while from the bush's, I decided to post my experience for all to see. Here is my bike before kit install.
 

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larymor

Guest
tying the spokes

Went and bought some ties and no corn gas ( No Ethanol ) which BAMA recommends. Got the no corn at Tesoro station right down the street. I think they are the old Standard station. Here is a pic of me putting on the ties. Seems to work best to get em tight using a needle nose to hold the big part of the tie and a visegrip like a fulcrum to pull tight. Wheres the ups guy?? :cool:
 

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bamabikeguy

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Okay sport, the only way those spokes are gonna last is getting that spokering snapped on and centered, and you've read up on Jim H. "Just Cruising".

You need a hose clamp, the size of the handlebars, to hold on the thottle when that time comes. You'll have to grind a bit off the sides, maybe one inch of the strap, to fit it in the throttle and pull it thru with your needlenose.

Just unhook the back brake cable completely, let it flop out of the way, that will be the last thing you'll put back together, makes getting the tire on and off easier. You may have to adjust the pads some, but you won't know until the end.

Start with the spokering. Get that part right and you MIGHT make the skinny spokes work for a while.

Check the four holes on the end of the strap, make sure the middle two especially, fit over the bolt in the mount. Last ones I put on had to be bored out a bit, better to know beforehand. If the strap holes fit over the bolt, then attach the strap to the bike first, (when you put the axle mount on, you slip the front of the engine mount in the second or third hole.)

Like I said, you'll probably have to do the axle mounting twice to get it just right...

We'll be standing by if something comes up.
 

bamabikeguy

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
1,911
btw: what are you going to attach the front strap to? the bikeframe or twisting it and attaching it to the saddle bolt?

If you are attaching to the frame, you may need access to a tap&die set, to bore a hole into the frame, with locktite to hold the bolts securely in...

If you are twisting it, you will have to bore the hole in the strap a little wider to fit the bolt thru.

Twisting is easier, but check those holes !
 

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larymor

Guest
attaching front strap

I was gonna attach it to the hole in the frame below the rubber boot of the rear brake...I think it is for a fender and it goes all the way through the tube, so i can use a bolt and nut...The place I was gonna put it is part of the rear end of the bike and would move with the engine and suspension. maybe I should get a different wheel BAMA b4 I continue...dont wanna crash and burn. Might have to get the beer out..I,m thinkin, too hard.
 

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bamabikeguy

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Nah, you're too excited, to get the FULL experience, teach others, you MUST go on the skinny spokes!! Later you can switch wheels and warn others to do the same !

Anyway, I see where you are attaching the strap, GEBE includes an 90 degree angle, which would go on the FRONT of that bar, so the bar is extra support. If you put it on the back of the bar, it might freakishly pull away, but on the front its sturdier. Then attach the strap after you've checked the bore on those 4 holes, so you can't tilt the engine to any position without future hassle.
 
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larymor

Guest
The snag

Well...got the spokering on and that went well..just kinda fell into place with a few dry runs around the wheel. snapped it on at the 12oclock position..then six, nine and three...then finished off by going from side to side. The front mount strap that keeps the engine from moving, well.... holes were too small where it bolts to the engine..had to ream em out like BAMA advised earlier, so check these b4 install. Now to the snag. After I put the lower mount strap on I was ready to slip the engine on the rear axle..and within a few more minutes b cruisin..Alas...not to be. The rear axle is too short by at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
I could get it on but the nut was only about four turns..or halfway onto the threads. No crashing please!! pic 1 is bottom of engine and front mount strap with too small holes. 2 is theframe..it is thicker on the gear side where the derailer mounts. 3 is the too short axle. 4 is the finished wheel. This is a 21 speed MB....any advice is appreciated. Now its beer time.
 

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bamabikeguy

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Messages
1,911
Lemme get this straight....

Without
the axle mount, putting the wheel in the slot, does the spokering clear the frame? Fingertightened, does the wheel spin freely?

And when you tighten the nuts (still without the axle mount), barely any of the axle is sticking out to spare? In otherwords, it was barely long enough before thinking about the engine?

If so, the choices are new longer axle, or go ahead and get the 12 gauge wheel, but thats where the clearance mentioned above is important, the 12 gauge wheel is a bit thicker....

Not to worry yet, but the axle length is a dead end.
 
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larymor

Guest
The snagerro

Yeah...the axle is too short. There was barley enough there when I started. The clearances all look good though. So where for an axle and what kind? I see you mention the Workman 12gauge. How much is it..how much thicker... and I dont wanna wait for two weeks...WAH!! Summer is short here Bama and I wanna ride!!
 
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bamabikeguy

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
1,911
bikeshops can usually get them through J & B importers in one or two days, $30-40. Specify the one that takes the 7 speed cassette. Should be able to order via the phone if you tell the owner your predicament.

I'm going ahead now with overkill, punctureproof tubes on the rear ($10) and Mr. Tuffies ($17) a pair.

btw- you can save yourself some money and hassle by carrying along the old wheel with you when you pick up the new one. It takes a special socket to take off the sprocket/cassette, and the bike shop owner could switch it over in a minute or so.
 
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