Shark racing Head question

[gary55]

When setting the squish gap use 1/16" rosen core solder. torque the head with gasket installed. Turn the engine over a few times. Remove the head and measure solder at the smallest point. Shoot for .8mm no less than .75 and try to stay under 1.

If material needs to be removed take it from the cylinder as taking it form the head will make the crush ring encroach farther into the cylinder.

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The ID of the crush ring varies greatly in after market heads so measure this as well. A steady hand on a dremel tool can correct this. If you have a drill press you can modify a piston and attach sand paper to it for this correction. If doing so 47mm is what you want.

 

[Karl Snarl]

These aint race cars guys. They are 100 dollar bike engine. Trying to squeeze .00000001 horse out of it will make absolutely no difference. I mean zero, ziltch, nadda. An you will spend a ton of time doing it for ziltch gain. Stop going so over board. This op isnt racing a moon rocket. Hes trying to get a decent running motor. And that jug is just fine. If engine set up right that jug will go another 2k miles. Ask me how i know, or dont. Y'all take these engines way to serouisly. Its a hobby. Lol. Your gonna have this guy f his engine up. So im out of this post. Good luck op, research everything people tell you here. A lot of these guys on here are head strong and really do think they know what they are doing. Some actually do, but be careful whos advice you use. No one will pay for the motor their advice screwed up. Lol. Good luck bro.

Ive got probably spent 10k plus just this last year or 2 building bikes for me and the fam and friends. Every single one of them are still running but a few flying horse motors i experimented with to see just how much those single piece engines can handle. They are dam fine motors for a casual user.

When setting the squish gap use 1/16" rosen core solder. torque the head with gasket installed. Turn the engine over a few times. Remove the head and measure solder at the smallest point. Shoot for .8mm no less than .75 and try to stay under 1.

If material needs to be removed take it from the cylinder as taking it form the head will make the crush ring encroach farther into the cylinder.

View media item 63006
View media item 63005
View media item 62023
View media item 61115
The ID of the crush ring varies greatly in after market heads so measure this as well. A steady hand on a dremel tool can correct this. If you have a drill press you can modify a piston and attach sand paper to it for this correction. If doing so 47mm is what you want.

 

[gary55]

These aint race cars guys. They are 100 dollar bike engine. Trying to squeeze .00000001 horse out of it will make absolutely no difference. I mean zero, ziltch, nadda. An you will spend a ton of time doing it for ziltch gain. Stop going so over board. This op isnt racing a moon rocket. Hes trying to get a decent running motor. And that jug is just fine. If engine set up right that jug will go another 2k miles. Ask me how i know, or dont. Y'all take these engines way to serouisly. Its a hobby. Lol. Your gonna have this guy f his engine up. So im out of this post. Good luck op, research everything people tell you here. A lot of these guys on here are head strong and really do think they know what they are doing. Some actually do, but be careful whos advice you use. No one will pay for the motor their advice screwed up. Lol. Good luck bro.

Ive got probably spent 10k plus just this last year or 2 building bikes for me and the fam and friends. Every single one of them are still running but a few flying horse motors i experimented with to see just how much those single piece engines can handle. They are dam fine motors for a casual user.

Not quite sure what the problem is with my advice here. OP said he was going to check squish gap. I showed a easy way to do so, and some of the problems you can run into with after market heads and possible ways to correct if need be. If I'm wrong just say so, and say why. Who knows, if there is no squish at all on the 1/16" solder he might be able to use your paint a gasket method and gain some low end torque.

 

[Tyler6357]

I think the cooling fins alone make the shark head better than stock.

 

[Street Ryderz]

These aint race cars guys. They are 100 dollar bike engine. Trying to squeeze .00000001 horse out of it will make absolutely no difference. I mean zero, ziltch, nadda. An you will spend a ton of time doing it for ziltch gain. Stop going so over board. This op isnt racing a moon rocket. Hes trying to get a decent running motor. And that jug is just fine. If engine set up right that jug will go another 2k miles. Ask me how i know, or dont. Y'all take these engines way to serouisly. Its a hobby. Lol. Your gonna have this guy f his engine up. So im out of this post. Good luck op, research everything people tell you here. A lot of these guys on here are head strong and really do think they know what they are doing. Some actually do, but be careful whos advice you use. No one will pay for the motor their advice screwed up. Lol. Good luck bro.

Ive got probably spent 10k plus just this last year or 2 building bikes for me and the fam and friends. Every single one of them are still running but a few flying horse motors i experimented with to see just how much those single piece engines can handle. They are dam fine motors for a casual user.

Dude if anyone is going to contribute to the demise of the op's engine it's YOU ! Telling him a worn out cylinder that is maybe 20 bucks to replace is a f***ing joke, and that the carbon build up is ok again a bad bit of advise! When you can tell us that you are still running 10+ year old engines with over 10k miles and still going I might be impressed, hell I'm still using engines from 2006, 2008, and my newest one is from 2011 ! Proper setup is key to helping an engine last and that's what many come here to learn, NOT to be told oh it's ok just run it and when it fails oh well it's a cheap engine, not a good start imo.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Not quite sure what the problem is with my advice here. OP said he was going to check squish gap. I showed a easy way to do so, and some of the problems you can run into with after market heads and possible ways to correct if need be. If I'm wrong just say so, and say why. Who knows, if there is no squish at all on the 1/16" solder he might be able to use your paint a gasket method and gain some low end torque.

As usual your post was spot on brother!