Fletch
Member
Does anyone have a shift kit with the 131.5mm bottom bracket and a pull start? I'd like to get a pull start, but don't know if it will clear the cranks. There's about 3/4" of room now.
Pull Start Shift kit with pull start- will the cranks clear?
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TucsonDIrect
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My understanding is that The Pull Starts are WAYYYY too much trouble and Always break, Might not be worth your time... Just a thought
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
I've never had one, but I've heard that people can't pedal with them. The true purpose of a pullstart is for bikes without pedals. You can get an extended crank that will let you clear it though. And just to back up what was already said - I've heard they don't last more than 20-30 pulls until the spring snaps and needs replaced.
It won't clear. 153mm will.
Pull starts being sold are worthless. But it's too costly to tool up and make a really good one. We explored intermediate fixes, but that dead ended. Maybe if we sold them for $80-$100.....but that's nearly the cost of the engine.
I stripped two engine cranks via stripping the very crappy threads messing with pull start stuff. One was a new engine the other was my favorite racer engine
I'm kinda jaded on the subject!! Skyliner70cc
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Ditto, don't waste your time and money on a pull start. Instead, get a heavy duty flywheel for your shift kit and pedal start your engine. Its not hard at all and much more reliable than a pull start.
Fletch
Member
I have to admit I don't know which part is the flywheel. I have the HD shifter kit with HD freewheel. I'm able to pedal start it now with not too much work since I added a second head gasket and my compression is 25psi. The clutch started slipping yesterday after about 130 miles though. I was miles from home and fortunately loosening the brass cable "thing" so the clutch arm could come fully out (adding some slack) was enough to have the clutch grab again.
I don't mean to go off topic, but if I want to slightly tighten the clutch as it continues to slip over time, is there a good rule of thumb about how far to turn the clutch keeper screw at a time? I am using one of those clutch roller mounts that al.fisherman makes which goes on over the clutch cover, so I can't test the clutch with the cover off.
goodtime65
Member
The Pull starts do break but they are nice to when you are broke down to check for spark, nice in the winter so you can warm your engine up before you ride, you can start your bike in the shed on a rainy day, easier on your drive system there is a lot of load when the engine is trying to start and this is usualy when things break, especialy the chain tensioner into the spokes. On a new build you can start the engine and let it run a bit before you ride, this always helps settle all the bolts a little better before you put a big load on it. So there are quite a few benifits and for $ 20 i think they are well worth the money from a mechanics point of view. Its pretty hard to trouble shoot an engine while pedling down the street
Fletch
Member
Goodtime65, Thanks for the insight. I wouldn't mind having one for the reasons you mentioned. Do you have one now? I'm trying to get a measurement from someone on width, so I can determine if my cranks will clear. I don't want to have to replace my bottom bracket. That's not worth it.
goodtime65
Member
I use pull starts on all my bikes. i also use the wide peddle cranks. I think it is well worth the money. If you ride alot the wider peddle stance is alot more comfortable, keeps your legs away from the engine/exhaust, and you wont run into problems with the peddles hitting the muffler.
Has anyone used a pull start/centrifugal clutch with a Sick Bike Parts shift kit? Seems like it would be a good setup. I'm thinking about doing that to my bike. I don't particularly like the rag joint sprocket mount and the use of the bikes gears seems like a plus. also I'm not sure how pedal starting would work with a centrifugal clutch. Any thoughts would be appreciated before I go and buy the parts. Thanks. Charles
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