That's a Unite motor 1020. I believe it's actually 750 watts, not 900, and looking at the wheels, I'd guess it came off of an electric scooter. How are you going to make it freewheel when it's not running?
BTW, my motor is is a Unite 1018. Never had a problem with it, just with that $%^&* rear hub.
You might be right. It states 900 Watts on the label but sometimes you can't go by that. Well, since it's been in the teens here and I really can't afford to heat my workshop just to play, I'm kinda stalling. It's supposed to get up in the forties in a day or two.
Haven't given it a lot of thought as to the freewheel but I did order a longer axel hopefully with enough room to mount the other freewheel. I do have the controller for the motor. I forgot to check rotation direction on the motor.
Worse case scenario, it will become an electric bike with little wheels and no pedalling, oh, and a big donkey riding it. Ha Ha!
After doing a little research, found that the unite 900 is reversable by changing the polarity. Thats a relief.
Badbunny, why does it make a difference that they are scooter wheels? They have the high speed bearings in them. It still can be set up for a 14MM standard axel.
Any offerings from the grey matter will be apreciated.
Badbunny, why does it make a difference that they are scooter wheels? They have the high speed bearings in them. It still can be set up for a 14MM standard axle.
I'm just wondering how you're going to make both the pedals and the electric drive freewheel.
If you reverse the polarity of the motor and use it on the left side of the bike to drive the rear wheel, I see some problems (which I'm sure you've already thought of), and I'm just wondering how you're going to overcome them, because I'm interested in a similar project. (I'm assuming here that the wheel's sprocket is meant to be on the right side, as with most scooters.) The first is that the freewheel on the wheel only freewheels in one direction. If you flip the wheel over so that the sprocket is on the left side, it's going to freewheel in the opposite direction, i.e., the direction that the motor is spinning. Second, I doubt that scooter hub will be threaded for a bicycle freewheel to allow the pedals to freewheel.
Regarding the wattage of the motor, a lot of manufacturers rate their motors according to their peak watts, not their continuous output watts. The motor I took off my Currie electric bike has "450 WATTS" all over it. It's actually 250 watts continuous output, 450 watts peak.
Well, the only thing I was thinking to do was to , keep the scooter wheel the same drive side and if possible reverse the 3 piece crank for the pedals and instal circlips to keep the left to right hand threads stable in their opposite positions. With a 14 mm shaft, I can find unlimited freewheel sprockets for the pedal side.
As far as the Wattage goes, even at 750 Watts that still equals one horsepower and that should be plenty to push me around. I will be installing an ampmeter and will be more able to give you an exact number based on constant outputs.
Thanks for your input and feel free to add more.
I'm not as smart as the other people here but since you have all the electronics that match the motor, I wonder if one of those large sprockets from a gas engine kit wouldn't just bolt up to your rear bike wheel. It would sure be an easy connection. If it would work that is.
The chain might not work I guess. I have made friction drives out of those engines. I have two on a huffy cruiser but not nearly that large. a 250 and 350 watt both driving the rear wheel.
Well after some more thought, I believe I can add an identical freewheel on the other side and weld a rear bicycle sprocket to it. You can't flip the freewheel or you will be locked up. I'll check into it further.
Spent all day installing a scooter seat on my wifes E-trike. Scooter parts are cheap.
