Simple Reed Valve

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I'm boxing the huge air filter in Correx, and possibly some around the engine with a Teflon coated fabric lining. I should have the Correx tomorrow, hopefully. :)
Bevel gears are not too noisy but I'm breaking in so mainly using lower RPM.
Anything to increase stealth is good for me, but better hill climbing would be a great bonus. :)
Use valve grinding compound on the gears...they will break in rather quick and should be quiet...then clean them off and lube as normal
 
So if I or the OP gets a 32mm MZ reed valve and drill out/replace the piston, do we need to add a boost port, or build up the intake port walls with JB Weld, or anything like that? :)[/QUOTE]
No just the windowed piston will work fine,the boost port cutting a track above the intake port doesn't work the way people thought it would,The window in the piston and the port should be open for the duration of the up stroke that's the most efficaint.
 
No just the windowed piston will work fine,the boost port cutting a track above the intake port doesn't work the way people thought it would,The window in the piston and the port should be open for the duration of the up stroke that's the most efficaint.
That's good to hear! I wore out my rotary tool just as I was getting finished so I'll have to do the piston window with a cordless drill and a file. I'm sure I can do that well enough though. :)
 
Use valve grinding compound on the gears...they will break in rather quick and should be quiet...then clean them off and lube as normal
That's crazy if you look at the mesh between the beveled gears it's allready to big of a gap and that lash is what gets noisy making the gap bigger is NOT going to help grease and a thicker bilet gear cover to reduce the resanation through it helps alot.
 
That's crazy if you look at the mesh between the beveled gears it's allready to big of a gap and that lash is what gets noisy making the gap bigger is NOT going to help grease and a thicker bilet gear cover to reduce the resanation through it helps alot.

It's just an accelerated break in...you don't use it for very long.

I'm going to experiment with using sound deadening as used in car audio but I want it inside the covers not outside....I may use peel n seal sold in hardware stores...that stuff like dyna mat is expensive.
 
It's just an accelerated break in...you don't use it for very long.

I'm going to experiment with using sound deadening as used in car audio but I want it inside the covers not outside....I may use peel n seal sold in hardware stores...that stuff like dyna mat is expensive.
Cheaper and easier to just buy a billet cover.I've tried Dyna mat both inside and out,inside doesn't have much clearence between the flower nut and the cover and needs thicker gasket to fit,It does reduce the noise some but it's a pita compared to it's results.
 
That's why I want to try the peel n seal...it's a bit thinner...I'll try it and see what happens..not out alot of money if doesn't work all that great.

I was thinking also maybe trying a rubberized undercoating.
 
That's why I want to try the peel n seal...it's a bit thinner...I'll try it and see what happens..not out alot of money if doesn't work all that great.

I was thinking also maybe trying a rubberized undercoating.
I got a spare set of gaskets so I am using two in the gear cover. I should check the clearance tomorrow with some putty.
I have a silicone brownie tray I can use, not sure what glue would work well with that .. or I can use some neoprene from an old wetsuit anyway.
I noticed that the SBP pre-cut sound deadening material has the centre removed for clearing the flower nut.
 
I got a spare set of gaskets so I am using two in the gear cover. I should check the clearance tomorrow with some putty.
I have a silicone brownie tray I can use, not sure what glue would work well with that .. or I can use some neoprene from an old wetsuit anyway.
I noticed that the SBP pre-cut sound deadening material has the centre removed for clearing the flower nut.
I've often wondered but not tried it yet if a thin layer of epoxy or JB Weld would work it needs to be stiffer to stop the resonation completly rather than try to just deaden or muffle it.
 
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