skyhawk in frame tank racer build

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by mikemarley, May 14, 2015.

  1. crazedsmyle

    crazedsmyle New Member

    List of parts and places you ordered

    Can you give a list of parts and places you ordered these parts from by any chance please. I'd like to try this build.

  2. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    a skyhawk build? just clarifying lol
  3. crazedsmyle

    crazedsmyle New Member

    Skyhawk Builder

    Yes the skyhawk build shown at the begining of this thread.

    Please and thank you in advanced.
  4. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    ok, well just a heads up this build is pretty expensive. but some dont mind, people like me who are gearheads lol.

    firstly and most important is the skyhawk frame itself, there are 2 models the gt2-s the straight frame which you can drop an engine right in, and the gt2-a, my angle style frame with a front mount welded to the frame
    youll have to look around as i got mine from a site that doesnt sell them anymore. be careful though as there are many cheap chinese copies, you can tell a genuine frame by the quality welds, and the serial number on the bottom of the pedal crank housing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT CHINESE COPIES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO SNAP AT THE WELDS, ESPECIALLY THE GT5-A.
    Next is the forks, the frame comes with the cups and bearings for a 1-1/8 threadless fork. you have to pound the cups into the headtube. i went with mountain bike forks from ebay, but theres lots of choices its mostly just choice. depending on the forks you might need a headset.
    and finally is the handle bars
    next is the pedal crank, you can go with american 1 piece ball bearing cranks, or go with a 3 piece mountain bike crank, i got mine from, youll need the adapter cups to be able to do it, also at also.

    ill finish the list in a bit im hungry lol
  5. Leroybrown420

    Leroybrown420 Member

    Your also going to need wheels, tires, tubes, rim strips, quill, headset shims, 27.2mm seat post, 31.8mm seat post clamps, a seat, handlebars, engine kit (2 or 4 stroke), kickstand & chain

    PART_1434760735098_0619151738.jpg PART_1435352142136_0626151355.jpg PART_1435365725600_0626151741.jpg PART_1435365894720_0626151744.jpg PART_1436810518997_0713151101.jpg PART_1436810625278_0713151103.jpg
  6. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    ok, so continuing the list
    so now that youve got your crank in the frame, you need to decide if you want a single speec or not, as you can put mountain bike gears on, or a bmx freewheel, once youve decided you need to get crank arms, and pedals as well.

    finally is the wheels, you need to pick out a rim for the front and back, but you can only fit a 26" rim in the back, the front is dependent on your also need to decide if you want coaster brakes, v brakes or disc brakes, i use discsm. i had to get special rims, my front is a 29" bontrager tubeless disc rim, and my back is a 26" stattru heavy duty disc freewheel. the front is tubeless for potholes,and rolling weight. the back is heavy duty disc hub for multiple reasons. the first reason is most of the weight sits on the back wheel, and its a hardtail on top of that. the second is because of my drive gear mount, ususlly people use the "sandwich" style but i wanted reliability and strength.
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  7. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Yep, a 'bare frame' build can get quite expensive if you don't have a lot bike parts on hand.

    I did this custom customer requested GT2-A 4-stroke 3-speed shifter a couple of years ago.



    A real pain in the butt with that frame, the S shaped 2-stroke frame would have been better even though it doesn't need the pedestal.

    One easy way to spot a fake frame is the lack of back V-brake bosses.
    gasbike/kings only sell fakes.

    New GT2's with support for 3" wide 26" wheels and a back disc brake are nearly complete.
    That will be a game changer for fat tire shifting bikes.
  8. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    thanks kc, that is a good tip. they might be a bit pricy but i love my skyhawk
  9. Leroybrown420

    Leroybrown420 Member

    Or you can get a TV dinner. Just add engine (some assembly required).
  10. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    ok so now youve got your wheels, and hopefully figured out what kind of gears you want mountain bike, or the single bmx gear.
    so the next step is to figure out if you want gears or the single speed. this determines which side the drive chain will be on. if you decide with gears you need to get a jackshaft kit from
    if you go with a single speed you need to decide how to mount your drive sprocket to the hub. there are 3 types of mounts.
    the first type is the stock type, its garbage in my opinion but you can adjust it so its true. the second is the manic mechanic clamp on drive sprocket, its great and strong too. the third type the disc buscuit from jakebike, it mounts straight to the disc hub, the only issue is spacing of everything, theres literally just thousandths of inches between everything lol aircraft tolerances
    so like i said its pricy, but you can do so much with the frame its just about what you want to do
  11. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    new mods

    so i decided to get the 12 volt generator a friend had, and had fun blowing the 6 volt main bulb out of my headlight lol. i had a 12v led headlight to sauter in anyway and dang its bright.
    i also got rid of my knobby tire in back, i have a flat tread now, its awesome

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 30, 2015
  12. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    this thing is defiently a race bike it eats magneto coils like theyre candy, 1 a week lol. they cant take the speed lol. then again 10000 rpms is a bit much...

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 30, 2015
  13. chain

    chain Member

    What is that extra piece in there ?
  14. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    thats the 12v generator that i said i added. it goes inside the case on the oppisite side of the magneto
  15. johnsteve

    johnsteve Member

    sub'd.............awesome build. I will have many questions after my head stops spinning.
  16. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    you can put epoxy on either side of the coil (where the arrows point to) to improve it's life

    FurryOnTheInside likes this.
  17. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    so its been a while since ive been on here last. i live in illinois so i had all winter to rip down the motor and throw in fresh rings, bearings, and gaskets. ive managed to talk to and convince bert to become my go to parts guy and im very satisfied with the products. all that is left to do is re jet the carb, because i run lean at the top end and i feel it could go even faster with more fuel flow. this is a pic of it after 5 months of sitting, it was smokey lol

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  18. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    so im changing a couple things, im going to put a layback seat post on my bike,and im switching my drive sprocket from a 34 to a 30 tooth. i dont want to run my engine as hard going fast
  19. mikemarley

    mikemarley Member

    disaster struck, locked up the chain at 50 and destroyed the case. the cause was my 11 tooth sprocket, im going back to 10. i also switched to a 30 tooth sprocket and put a replacement half case on. i only have the one case piece and studs left of my original gt5 20160522_121801.jpg 20160522_121807.jpg 20160512_210118.jpg 20160604_125004.jpg 3 years ago
  20. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Hope you get parts to fix..... I had a similar problem and I'm debating wether to buy a bottom end or buy a new kit...... It's not much more for a boat load of extra parts