Slowly but surely . . .

This project is taking a while (cash flow).


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Is that so you can clear those monsterwide tires? Sheesh! That thing is gonna be a fat-tracker!

Yeah and to keep the wheel from moving side to side. Can't seem to tighten down the hub nuts without either making
them too tight or too loose. Thanks! :D:cool:
 
Oring8 Super Cells have arrived. Will be slapping these babies on this weekend. As well as getting some spacers for the rear axle and some square tubing to lift the motor up. Maybe get this thing rolling down the gravel road this weekend . . . . .
 

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So I got the right size spacers for the rear axle at Ace Hardware. The fit is perfect and I can tighten the wheel up and still have it turn. Got the Origin8 Super Cells mounted. Cut two 1 inch by 1 inch square tubing, drilled the holes and installed them and still can't move the engine laterally the ~ 1 inch to align the CVT sprocket with the rear wheel sprocket. So I stood there looking at it and then DUH!!!, I'm going to have to build a channel on top of the motor mount so it clears the frame and then cut long slots to move the engine as how it stands now the frame tube is in the way. I have a 2 inch wide x 3/16s bar stock and a piece of flat plate that I can weld a channel together and that will solve the alignment issue.
 

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I'm also going to have to cut the exhaust off where I welded it and rotate it down. Won't clear the frame in the position where the engine needs to be.
 

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So I got the right size spacers for the rear axle at Ace Hardware. The fit is perfect and I can tighten the wheel up and still have it turn. Got the Origin8 Super Cells mounted. Cut two 1 inch by 1 inch square tubing, drilled the holes and installed them and still can't move the engine laterally the ~ 1 inch to align the CVT sprocket with the rear wheel sprocket. So I stood there looking at it and then DUH!!!, I'm going to have to build a channel on top of the motor mount so it clears the frame and then cut long slots to move the engine as how it stands now the frame tube is in the way. I have a 2 inch wide x 3/16s bar stock and a piece of flat plate that I can weld a channel together and that will solve the alignment issue.
Did you consider just making a jackshaft instead of moving the engine? Thats what I did since I didn't want to offset the weight of the engine too much (my engine+converter combo is like 70lbs and didn't want it hanging off the side).

As a bonus it also gives you more fine tuning for gearing adjustments, and allows you to run a more powerful jackshaft brake. Was quick and cheap to make, welded it right to the back of the reinforced seat post along both sides and through that middle slot. Excuse the messy welds, its a cheap 110v flux core that I made some improvements to but its still not as good as my sears stick welder...I don't have a 220 outlet for the big one in my new place yet.
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Did you consider just making a jackshaft instead of moving the engine? Thats what I did since I didn't want to offset the weight of the engine too much (my engine+converter combo is like 70lbs and didn't want it hanging off the side).

As a bonus it also gives you more fine tuning for gearing adjustments, and allows you to run a more powerful jackshaft brake. Was quick and cheap to make, welded it right to the back of the reinforced seat post along both sides and through that middle slot. Excuse the messy welds, its a cheap 110v flux core that I made some improvements to but its still not as good as my sears stick welder...I don't have a 220 outlet for the big one in my new place yet.
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Yeah I did consider that. Might be reconsidering it. What you said about having too much weight on one side of the bike makes a lot of sense. I was thinking pillow blocks and two more sprockets same size as the CVT sprocket. It just seemed like more work and more parts to break down, but now that I read your post, I might be reconsidering it.

Nice jackshaft! Hmmmm, yeah I think I am going to go your route on this.

So how and where does the jackshaft brake get installed? - Disregard, googled it.
I like this idea also as it solves the back brake.
 
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Did you consider just making a jackshaft instead of moving the engine? Thats what I did since I didn't want to offset the weight of the engine too much (my engine+converter combo is like 70lbs and didn't want it hanging off the side).

As a bonus it also gives you more fine tuning for gearing adjustments, and allows you to run a more powerful jackshaft brake. Was quick and cheap to make, welded it right to the back of the reinforced seat post along both sides and through that middle slot. Excuse the messy welds, its a cheap 110v flux core that I made some improvements to but its still not as good as my sears stick welder...I don't have a 220 outlet for the big one in my new place yet.
View attachment 91034
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Another thing about your design is that you can move the sprockets to get better alignment since it has a keyway. Is this correct?
 
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