so here it is my 1947 h model with high compression head

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by militarymonark, Jan 9, 2011.

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  1. Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2011

  2. RFaust

    RFaust Member

    Beautiful stock whizzer, you are a lucky guy!
  3. Rogwarf

    Rogwarf New Member

    That's a oldy but goody!
  4. Sparkler?

    Hi Military, the best thing to do is get the little electronic points eliminator like Briggs and others use, and start with no points, and no condenser has them in stock last I checked.

  5. Rogwarf

    Rogwarf New Member

    Anything that shares a 20 thousands point gap was the lawn mowers and rotor tillers if I remember right.
  6. im not sure what you guys are talking about or how even where to start this engine is all new to me
  7. Starting a Whizzer?

    Hi, If you really do not know where to start, you may want to call me, or someone who does know, as the postings can go on forever if you are not familiar with the engine.


    916 519-8612
  8. do you make the exposed valve head cause if you do i think i have talked to you before, but ill keep your number handy
  9. OHV Whizzer

    Hi, no I don't make OHV heads, tho I did have one, and exposed pushrod model in my red bike.


    Attached Files:

  10. mustangtom

    mustangtom New Member

    Beautiful bike



  11. mason_man

    mason_man Active Member

    Hi Mike is that the same bike you rode at the last whiz-in in fresno? Sure looks nice. Ray
  12. OHV option?

    Hi Tom, I rode the OHV setup for about 500 miles, the last 100 miler I was on the bike ran sporadicly, hitting up to 43 mph, and slowing down to only making 23-28 MPH, I wasn't sure what was wrong till I got back to camp, with the bike, and my right sneaker, and jeans leg all splattered with black oil. My wife was kind enough to wipe down the bike, so it looked better, and wouldn't drip all over the trailer (new at that time).

    It turned out that I had worn out the Exhaust valve guide, and luckily I did not ride much further, as it would have dropped that valve, into the barrel with devastating results.

    I pulled the head, and sent it home with the designer/builder to get a new improved valve guide installed so I could get back on the road.

    After almost 2 years, with no sight nor sound of the head, I was invited to a local bike show, and I pulled what was left of the OHV out of the Model 9, installing an NE5 that I had available here at the house. Currently my bike has a basically stock 2005 NE5 in place, with a flex exhaust.

    I miss my OHV engine for a lot of reasons, BUT, under the circumstances, I will not name, nor expose the builder.

    Yes Ray, thanks for the compliment, I rode it at Fresno, and a couple of times up here in the Delta, and since then I have been riding EZM although, there is a rumor, that I will be on a new ride, at the Spring Delta Whiz-in.

    It seems that it will be a modified 46 H motor, done up in a completely different fashion than I have ever seen before. It seems to be going into a Black on Black Schwinn frame, 24" wheels, 1.6 gallon black tank, black 9-hole rack etc. IF the Black Schwinn was not found to be ready for Spring, then certainly should be for Fall.

    Quenton is building the engine for me, a special engine, made from parts a customer sold me, parts he is providing from he extensive parts trove, and a tiny specific amount of new parts to finish it off. The roller crank needs a rebuild, and the vintage motor mounts, and other parts will all be blacked out.

    I should commit myself to a build thread for the bike?

  13. WZ507

    WZ507 Member

    Whizzer Coil Troubleshooting


    When you mentioned the coil air gap I assume you meant 0.010" air gap, which would work fine.

    The vintage Whizzer coil has about 10,500 turns on the secondary winding. This winding is made with very delicate wire (finer than a human hair), and several of these fine wires are gathered into a single pigtail that penetrate the Bakelite coil housing where they are wrapped around the screw you refer to that the high tension lead (spark plug wire) attaches to. The high tension lead is "threaded" right onto the brass screw. This attachment point is quite delicate so be careful.

    A good coil should have a resistance somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000-5000 ohm between the end of the high tension lead and the primary or ground side of the coil. If it doesn't you likely need a new coil.

    The inner windings of the coil are potted in a firm tar like substance that softens with heat (some late style ones are potted with rigid clear epoxy). If you want to attempt changing the coil wire, I'd heat the coil with a hair drier until you are sure it is well heat soaked and at a uniform temperature throughout, so the tar is not completely rigid. Then hold the brass screw with a screwdriver and attempt to unscrew the plug wire. If the screw remains stationary throughout the operation you should be OK, as you will not alter the connection between the secondary winding pigtail and the brass screw. Install the new wire using the same technique, where the brass screw never moves. You may need some WD-40 or soap to lubricate the new wire when you are screwing it in.

    Mike mentioned to throw away the points and condenser and get an electronic control module for about $15, which I would second the motion on.

    Good luck.
  14. well i purchased new points and I was sent a new magneto setup, I believe it was the points all along. Once i put the new points in and set them correctly it fired right up