So my motor is broke again...

[DuctTapedGoat]

How could I fix that?

I tend to suggest lock the clutch handle and adjust the flower nut tighter under the 5 panel cover

 

[Carlos motors]

I tend to suggest lock the clutch handle and adjust the flower nut tighter under the 5 panel cover

Yes I ajusted it to fit perfectly no to loose no to tight but nothing again.

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Yes I adjusted it to fit perfectly no to loose no to tight but nothing again.

Lock the clutch handle and try tightening the flower nut to the notch where the plate barely rattles around, then when you unlock the clutch it's gonna grab.

If that fixes it, or is better than it was you may need to tighten the internal spring/plate - but keep working on the external spring/plate first to see if that's even what's up with it.

 

[Carlos motors]

Lock the clutch handle and try tightening the flower nut to the notch where the plate barely rattles around, then when you unlock the clutch it's gonna grab.

If that fixes it, or is better than it was you may need to tighten the internal spring/plate - but keep working on the external spring/plate first to see if that's even what's up with it.

So I looked it again and removed motor from the bike (btw I almost forgot how nice and smooth can bike drive without big chain) and checked the rings evetything okay checked again the clutch and tried to adjust it but still the same and my friend told me that last thing that could be is crnakshaft bearing and right after I removed motor from the bike turned it upside down while I was bringing it to the table and one ball from the bearing fell from crankshaft. I dont know has this happend to anyone or I bought s**tiest motor on the internet cause man every 2 weeks there is problem with something...

 

[Carlos motors]

And know I went to unscrew this screws which connects left and right side of the motor and it is so hard I grabbed biggest screwdriver I have and I only managed to unscrew one and I tried other one but without succes and if I keep going like this I will damage them. Could someone give me some advice or some way that I can unscrew them. Btw I soaked them in wd-40.

 

[crassius]

that bearing looks like the one from behind the bucking bar as part of the clutch mechanism - a hand impact driver is needed to get those screws in or out properly, but you shouldn't try to take the motor apart until you are SURE you need to

 

[Carlos motors]

that bearing looks like the one from behind the bucking bar as part of the clutch mechanism - a hand impact driver is needed to get those screws in or out properly, but you shouldn't try to take the motor apart until you are SURE you need to

And how will I get to that bearing?

 

[HumanPerson]

And how will I get to that bearing?

taking the clutch arm cover off, you will see a small rod, which should have the bearing behind that.

 

[Carlos motors]

taking the clutch arm cover off, you will see a small rod, which should have the bearing behind that.

Okay I know what you mean but that means that then I still dont know what is problem for my motor not working..

 

[Frankenstein]

Okay I know what you mean but that means that then I still dont know what is problem for my motor not working..

You removed it too soon, but if you have it apart on the drive sprocket side put a socket over the nut that holds it on (more often than not the sparkplug tool that came with the kit will fit this, put a screwdriver through the holes to get leverage) and turn it to the right (not unscrewing it just yet) and watch what happens on the other side in the clutch area.

If neither gear turns then the large gear woodruff key went, if both spin but not the piston then it's the small gear key (most often offender.)

The gear is removed with the puller tool, key replaced.

It's recommended a very thin-walled washer is used to fill the gap that the locking ring doesn't always fill. The only person I know who has these is bicycle_motor_works on ebay, it's a small thin washer made of copper, and fits around the end of the crankshaft arm but inside the gear smaller than the diameter of the threads inside that lip. This way the gear is firmly pressed onto the driveshaft rather than being only almost tight when the head of the bolt bottoms out on the end of the shaft, premature of the correct press fit. (that's what she said)

I made one in an emergency situation (it was that or walk 4 miles or even worse take the bus) once, I used a multitool to cut an old keyring I had on my swash of keys into an equally small ring that fit perfect in that spot. Alas the damage was too much, and my crankshaft end had already been worn down to a mear couple millimeters too small...
Well anyway if I had some soda cans I could have made a really janky cap to fill in the difference, now that I have copper sheeting on the bike as just a large curved copper fender I can simply sacrifice a piece of that rather easily and actually "make do."

Anyway it's a problem that can be solved before it began. Probably why that specific gear has had so many problems with the woodruff key. If you just aren't aware that that gear isn't perfectly down tight from factory then it can end up being looser than normal, not good.

Then there's the too long bolt in the too small hole situation.. The end of the bolt bottoms out in the bottom of the threads but is too long for the head to actually press down.

If you replace the bolt or want to improve it then make it shorter than the hole is deep, and put a small washer in that area, I could even assume a piece of heavy gauge solid copper wire trimmed to fit in that small circle would work. Either way filling the gap and then torquing it down will lead to better results keeping the gear firmly in place while not adding any extra particular burden to maintain the motor.