Solid HT white wire data

When you mention '4.5 V dc input' ,what exactly are you referring to?.An input from some other source labeled as such on the torch ?.Are you happy with it as far as light output is concerned.Not having a meter is not the end of the world,but it makes life a lot easier if you want to check on your wiring and for trouble shooting.Could you borrow one may be from someone for awhile?Did you read my post in the WW succes story thread describing what I think would be a good system.We could charge 3 groups of 3 batteries each (one set inside the torch) that would take 11V from the rectifier and parallel them all for running the lights.Then you have 1800 mAh capacity,not bad.
 
the battery i wish to run these thimgs off is

DiaMec Non Spillable

D M 6 -1.3 (6v 1.3AH/20HR )

Constant Voltage CHarge

Cycle Use 7.2 -7 50v
Standby use 6.75-6.9v
Initial Current less than .39A

I see you want to run the batteries in parrallel with eachother, i understand but with the internal battery i would prefer to run it in series and leave the torch 'intact' if i could.

the 4.5v DC input is on the side of the torch, it's used to charge the battery and run the onboard small lcd within the torch, i presume it wants 4.5 so to use 3.6 for itself and pass the rest onto the 'output' female port for the rear light.

ill see if i can pickup a small multimeter today after class. it'll only be a cheap $10 thing but atleast it's something right ?
 
hrm, this forum must stop you editing your posts after a set time limit... bugger, cant edit original posts :( admins?
 
Yes a cheapy one beats nothing at all by a long shot,we found out you can't really measure pulse currents (like what's coming out of the WW) with it,but you can measure battery voltages,resistance and continuity,and is useful to have around. Otherwise you're flying completely blind &headed for deep dudu.The WW has limited current capability at the most 500 mA or so, but can charge a 12V battery, so you have to string a bunch of 3.6 V jobs together to get the most Volt x Amps (Watts) of power out of it.
What I want to do is to charge the torch battery via the 3.6 V output connection (leaving the torch alone),put two more of these 3.6 jobs in series and charge the whole string with the ptp rectifier from the WW.Then you throw a toggle switch ( two actually) and have your torch battery in parallel with 2 more identical batteries to act as a 3.6 V source to power your lights with.I haven't quite figured out what to do with the WW output yet when the system is in this mode.Not sure if charging a mere 3.6V battery load will screw up the ignition,I suppose we will find out,if so we can either stick a couple of ohms resistance in the charge circuit output to reduce the effect on the ignition or just disconnect it.
 
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I have not really told you explicitly why I am not all that keen on the battery cascade.To begin with there is not all that much power available from the WW,4-5 Watt max,so it's advisable not to waste any of it in dropping resistors.The ptp rectifier can directly charge the 6V battery,no isolation resistor is necessary,however equally charging and discharging,that is proportionally to their Ah capacity, both the 6V and the 3.6V torch battery will be a hit or miss proposition over which you have not enough control,also about 40% of the power from the 6V will be inevitably wasted in the circuitry between the batteries,there is no getting away from that.It's pretty much the same thing as charging a larger 3.6 V battery than you have in the torch (actually it's worse than but the math gets rather involved) .How you would go about timing the switch and the current supplied is unclear.Obviously if you are running the lights you would like to provide more current from the 6V battery so the dropping resistance should be lower,if you are in a charge mode, how do you know the 3.6V battery charge status in order to control and/or time the current supplied from the 6 V unit.Too many imponderables&unknowables for my comfort.What I proposed at least puts all batteries on an equal footing and is much more efficient.It assumes of course that electrical access to the 3.6 V battery is available.One last question, is the rear light on in day time also? .
 
I somehow get the impression that you assume that I propose to monkey around physically with the torch,that's not the case.I envisioned that the WW rectifier circuit + assorted switches,the extra batteries etc would be located somewhere on the frame,within easy access,with wires going to the WW and ground,to the torch (battery) and tail light.All that is done is connecting to the 'battery out' connector,the torch is left alone otherwise.
 
So i'm wiring up the bike using the following plan

http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16051&d=1237185824

plugged it all in and forgot i needed a 6v to 4.5 ( probably would have gotten a 6 > 3.6v resister) and smelt that all too familiar smell :(

I killed the torch, input doesn't work anymore.

so i took the torch apart and put 6v to the LED's and low and behold they work off 6v :D

so i'm going to bypass the 4.5v input socket, get the led's running off 6v and split off there a line to the 'rear' light.

Pretty clean installation so far i'll see if i can grab a pic of the work in progress.
 
duivendyk:
I somehow get the impression that you assume that I propose to monkey around physically with the torch,that's not the case.I envisioned that the WW rectifier circuit + assorted switches,the extra batteries etc would be located somewhere on the frame,within easy access,with wires going to the WW and ground,to the torch (battery) and tail light.All that is done is connecting to the 'battery out' connector,the torch is left alone otherwise.

If you don't have a HT, this is what it looks like at the magneto side of things.
Thanks for the help so far.

impression
Going by your diagram, I thought the diodes are supposed to be connected to the Black Wire ?
 

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Imp,I discovered a flaw in my scheme,these dinky AAA cells are not likely to be able to handle the charge current from the WW rectifier,at least not for long.So you blew up the charge input circuit and maybe the internal batteries also.You got to be careful running the LED's from a higher voltage unless you have a dropping resistor they behave like diodes above the strike voltage,(around 3V) ,the current goes sky high in a hurry and you'd blow them up too. If the internal battery is still alive it would act as a voltage regulator but might be subject to large currents which could zap it in time.Does the torch light still work?.If you want to use your 6V battery.The simplest thing to do is to run a negative going diode with at least a 5Amp rating (or put some smaller one in parallel) to the minus side of the 6V battery.The WW likes a negative load and run your LED's via a dropping resistor + switch,
 
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