Solid HT white wire data

[impression]

hmm, its late here,

teh internal battery still works and so do the LED's inside the torch.

i just fried the 'dc input' circut.

if you could make a quick picture eith the part numbers of the diodes/resisters that would be awesome.

It got too dark here to take a picture, but i will in the morning.

 

[duivendyk]

I'll work on it,ET was supposed to come up with schematics etc,but he has taken to the hills it seems,or his lady love is keeping him in a safe place,away from road hazards like MB's.As I told you the WW likes a negative output system,that means the pos.of the battery & LED's have to be at ground (the black wire at the engine).The peak currents run into the Amperes although the average is in the 300 mA range,so you need a diode rated at say
5A (or more) to be on the safe side,ET blew up a few until he wised up.So the cathode (the band on the diode) goes to the WW,the other side to the neg. terminal on your 6V battery.It would make sense to put a switch in the WW,to keep the battery from getting overcharged if you're not using the lights.(this is a weak point in this setup).If you have managed to latch on to a meter it would be nice to find out how much juice the torch+ rearlight take,not all that easy with internal connection to torch LED's. If you could get Ammeter between the contacts of on/off switch, you could find out (with switch in off pos).Rear light is easy.Or else you could get the 3.6V battery charged up and see how long it lasts with every thing turned on,600mAh for say 60 min. means 600 mA.As far as charging it with your 6V job,to charge it at 100 mA in 6hrs would take a 27 ohm 1Watt resistor (plus a switch),if you wanted to charge the 3.6 V battery at 100 mA + supplying 100 mA to the lights you would need around 7-8 Ohm, (assuming that the lights took 300 mA.BTW it's a good idea to put 1 Amp fuse in the 6V battery output.I've been to Sydney,nice place,for tourists at least, but a long,long flight to/from LA.

 

[etacovda]

hey, im still around - i have schematics but no way of editing them into the original post - as above apparently admins are looking at it.

attached is the circuit im using, not able to look at it right now to see if the polarity of the battery is correct though (is it?)

and the reason i blew up a diode was because i mis-wired, i think - cause my resistors fried as well if i recall correctly.

 

[etacovda]

and positive/negative peak circuits testing.

 

[impression]

I'll work on it,ET was supposed to come up with schematics etc,but he has taken to the hills it seems,or his lady love is keeping him in a safe place,away from road hazards like MB's.As I told you the WW likes a negative output system,that means the pos.of the battery & LED's have to be at ground (the black wire at the engine).The peak currents run into the Amperes although the average is in the 300 mA range,so you need a diode rated at say
5A (or more) to be on the safe side,ET blew up a few until he wised up.So the cathode (the band on the diode) goes to the WW,the other side to the neg. terminal on your 6V battery.It would make sense to put a switch in the WW,to keep the battery from getting overcharged if you're not using the lights.(this is a weak point in this setup).If you have managed to latch on to a meter it would be nice to find out how much juice the torch+ rearlight take,not all that easy with internal connection to torch LED's. If you could get Ammeter between the contacts of on/off switch, you could find out (with switch in off pos).Rear light is easy.Or else you could get the 3.6V battery charged up and see how long it lasts with every thing turned on,600mAh for say 60 min. means 600 mA.As far as charging it with your 6V job,to charge it at 100 mA in 6hrs would take a 27 ohm 1Watt resistor (plus a switch),if you wanted to charge the 3.6 V battery at 100 mA + supplying 100 mA to the lights you would need around 7-8 Ohm, (assuming that the lights took 300 mA.BTW it's a good idea to put 1 Amp fuse in the 6V battery output.I've been to Sydney,nice place,for tourists at least, but a long,long flight to/from LA.

yep, pay day tomorrow. I'll grab a 6v fuse, I got that cheap multimeter but pretty much clueless on how to use it effectively, last time i sat an electronics class was @ 13years old, so not that in depth.

With my setup i got a switch between the battery and white wire, I alto have a toggle switch so that i could run off the white wire directly or the battery, the down side to this is that the battery won't be charged while using the WW to power the lights directly.


I can wire things up, but figuring out what diodes ect: to use is far from my forte'


this is what i have atm

6v 1.3 amp hour battery.
27ohm 10w resister
INC 5404 Diode. ( unsure what rating that is the guy just threw it in the bag and said use this too)
few switches and a strip.

the diagram is what i have wired at the moment.

 

[etacovda]

ok, so im struggling to understand what exactly is happening in the circuit. Lets say in the circuit 2 diagram, what voltage exactly is the battery 'seeing'? the voltage i read across it, around 15ish? is this constant? i know that without the battery, it should still be fluctuating, yes? what about current? is this fairly constant, or is my meter 'fudging' it a bit and making it seem more even than it really is? would increasing the capacitance of the cap smooth this voltage more? what about adding a cap in parallel with the battery, would this reduce ripple?

I have a small voltage regulator out of my power tool charger, which takes 15v 400ma in... basically, can i hook this up to my circuit to directly charge the battery? drop the voltage to this by diodes/resistors (ie throw 4 diodes in series to drop from 18.8v peak to 15.6?) My difficulty here is understanding the measurements i will be getting from my multimeter + how they relate to what is actually going on...

 

[MurraySabrePlus]

yep, pay day tomorrow. I'll grab a 6v fuse, I got that cheap multimeter but pretty much clueless on how to use it effectively, last time i sat an electronics class was @ 13years old, so not that in depth.

With my setup i got a switch between the battery and white wire, I alto have a toggle switch so that i could run off the white wire directly or the battery, the down side to this is that the battery won't be charged while using the WW to power the lights directly.


I can wire things up, but figuring out what diodes ect: to use is far from my forte'


this is what i have atm

6v 1.3 amp hour battery.
27ohm 10w resister
INC 5404 Diode. ( unsure what rating that is the guy just threw it in the bag and said use this too)
few switches and a strip.

You're making things overly-complicated here for a simple project.
My schematic that you posted is simple, and depending on the SIZE and VOLTAGE of the battery connected (6-12v) the resistor needs to be chosen for a "trickle" charge to this battery.
This in turn prevents over-charging the battery. it just keeps the battery "topped up".
And extends the charge when the lights are turned on as well.
Figure this.. the highest output from the WW is at riding speeds, and calculate the resistor value to limit the charge current for a given battery.
Try a 100 ohm 5-10 watt resistor after the diode, considering the battery is 6 volts and 1.3 amp rated.
The diode rectifies and simply blocks any discharging of the battery when the bike is turned off.

ALSO, my choice for the NTE588 diode is this:
We're dealing with a HIGH frequency AC source here (the 2-8000 rpms of the magneto circuit)
Your 5404 diode is NOT a good choice because it's a "standard-recovery" diode, designed for 60 cycle AC that is found in house current. It's inefficient when used in high-speed AC, and can short out and fail.
The NTE588 (1N5820 or similar) is a "fast-recovery" diode designed for high speed switching power supplies like those found in computer power supplies and television sets. It's more efficient at the speed of AC current coming out of that magneto.
Trust me, I'm an electronics technician and know these things.

There's no need for a complicated switching arrangement that you speak of, merely connect the lighting to the battery.
I wouldn't recommend running the lights straight off the WW, just the battery.

It's the same method as an automobile... the lights are worked off the battery, and the "charger" just keeps it charged as you drive.

 

[duivendyk]

In the 'peak' circuits the WW is seeing the 47mF cap and charges it either pos. or neg. depending on the diode polarity.in between the pulses the cap discharges slowly not more than a few % until the next pulse comes along/So it pretty closely reads the peak output WW output volytage (-0.6V).In the ptp rectifier the pos cycles charge the series cap to the peak pos voltage.so the voltage across it is -6V say between the WW input& the junction between the diodes.Then on the neg. going half cycle that cap voltage rides on top of thr WW neg.output and once the sum of both exceeds the battery voltage by 0.6V the diode conducts and the charge (or part of it) is dumped in the battery as a current pulse.then thereis a fairly long wait until the next ignition cycle.Is thatclear now?

 

[duivendyk]

ET you got your polarities wrong in the peak circuits the WW is +6 to -18V or thereabouts,not the other way around,the diagrams are not complete either.The dc component in the pulse itself is
(6-18)/2= -6 V.You don't measure that because of the low duty factor.Prob only -0.6V when measured with dc meter.

 

[etacovda]

ah yes, i see it. So, in theory, 15v zener diode shunt circuit should be steady enough for my little charger. These sorts of circuits make you want a scope so you can see exactly whats going on.