Al.Fisherman
Active Member
I was down in my garage piddling and thought how inconvenient it was to torque the engine mount nuts on these bike engines. The engine mount is not wide enough and the mount hole is too close to the bend in the clamp to get a good grip on the nut. The clamp gets in the way. I have a engine in my vice that I wanted to work on, and while tightening the engine mount nuts tight enough I couldn't use either a socket or a box wrench properly and resorted to a open end wrench. But with a open end wrench you can't provide the proper torque to the nut...I'm a firm believer in proper torque and can't say that enough. This cast aluminum is nothing to guess at. Same for mounting the engine properly to the tubes. I had some quality tubing (stainless steel) laying around that a friend asked me if I had a use for...didn't know what for at the time but I found a good one today. I would NOT use a piece of copper as it will crush, losing proper torque.
1. Red arrow where the nut binds before proper torque.
2. Dark blue arrow sleeve over engine mount stud.
3. Light blue arrow is the tubing I cut.
If I was installing I'd use both a washer, and either double nut or use a self locking nylon nut or both.
ALL hardware is both upgraded to metric 8.8 (US grade 5) and held in case with lock tite 1/2 turn off being bottomed out.
1. Red arrow where the nut binds before proper torque.
2. Dark blue arrow sleeve over engine mount stud.
3. Light blue arrow is the tubing I cut.
If I was installing I'd use both a washer, and either double nut or use a self locking nylon nut or both.
ALL hardware is both upgraded to metric 8.8 (US grade 5) and held in case with lock tite 1/2 turn off being bottomed out.
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