Some Idiot with a welder in Australia

You made a good choice with the 4 stroke. I learned my lesson with the unbranded kit engines. They need a lot of work and need the top end rebuilt every few thousand. They will drive you crazy after a while. Air leaks are common and the aluminum head gaskets don’t last as long as a copper or other material gasket. Some swear by them but I don’t like them.
Im not sure what mine would output at this point.

Its got a shaved and ported head
ARC billet rod and flat top piston
ARC billet flywheel 8dgree offset
UT2 cam and pushrods (seems like a slightly more aggressive cam then the UT1)
UT2 side cover with the "Windage tray"
18lb springs with lash caps on both valves

But even with my messed up gearing its allot faster then the 2-smoke bikes
 
Yeah the homemade jackshaft is cool but usually you want the head of the slanted type motors facing the rear. There is transmissions out there (cvt) that are used on the 212cc that should bolt right up. They have a plastic cover too. Since you put some money in the motor it wouldn’t be bad to beef up/ upgrade the transmission or even the frame/wheels. That depends on how far you wanna go. That was a junked bike right? If you ever decide on another frame or a beach cruiser there is a bolt on mounting plate that eliminates welding the mount on and it’s adjustable should fit your engine.
 
Yeah the homemade jackshaft is cool but usually you want the head of the slanted type motors facing the rear. There is transmissions out there (cvt) that are used on the 212cc that should bolt right up. They have a plastic cover too. Since you put some money in the motor it wouldn’t be bad to beef up/ upgrade the transmission or even the frame/wheels. That depends on how far you wanna go. That was a junked bike right? If you ever decide on another frame or a beach cruiser there is a bolt on mounting plate that eliminates welding the mount on and it’s adjustable should fit your engine.
I'll see how it goes. Im kinda digging the current look of it honestly
 
Sheesh, that's some seriously tall gearing! 10->14->14->48T is 4.8:1, or about 60MPH @ 3600RPM.

No wonder it's lugging a bit LOL...Even with a 56T on rear you'd only have 5.6:1 or almost 52MPH @ 3600.

Might want to look at increasing the jackshaft input sprocket size, 16T or higher would help a lot.
 
Sheesh, that's some seriously tall gearing! 10->14->14->48T is 4.8:1, or about 60MPH @ 3600RPM.

No wonder it's lugging a bit LOL...Even with a 56T on rear you'd only have 5.6:1 or almost 52MPH @ 3600.

Might want to look at increasing the jackshaft input sprocket size, 16T or higher would help a lot.
Yeah for sure. I'll go with the 56t first then I'll look at welding up a new jackshaft input sprocket.
 
Yeah for sure. I'll go with the 56t first then I'll look at welding up a new jackshaft input sprocket.
For the 212s on a 26" tire most recommend 6:1 as the minimum for decent acceleration, with between 7:1 and 8:1 being preferred. The 56t might be enough to make you happy though, bringing it closer to that 6:1 point. With your mods you may have enough extra power to make it easier to deal with at that ratio.
 
For the 212s on a 26" tire most recommend 6:1 as the minimum for decent acceleration, with between 7:1 and 8:1 being preferred. The 56t might be enough to make you happy though, bringing it closer to that 6:1 point. With your mods you may have enough extra power to make it easier to deal with at that ratio.
It's actually a 24"
 
Welcome to the forum DC, keep up the good work. You should name that bike Franky, short for Frankenstein.
 
Road Warrior petrol tin? Priceless! 😁
As for dry clutch 3D motorsports will work provided it has a straight .750" - 19mm shaft.
Tom from Rubicon
 
Back
Top