some issues on New 80cc

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by shred_cred, Oct 4, 2011.

  1. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    sp I Just got a Zoombike 80cc in Vancouver and mounted it on a cruiser frame.

    its Runs OK except my clutch arm pops out of the engine block from vibrations. From looking around here it seems like a little pin holding this clutch arm down, has fallen out inside the block (or out onto the ground). I would open the side cover up but the screws are in the Block so tight they were stripped immediately. I guess my best bet would be an Easy-Out, and then replace that little pin with a drill bit as ive seen some people mention?
    Still looking for solutions to this issue.

    Stolen pic assuming this is my problem.

    I'm also getting some Bogging with WOT. revs are fine from 0-80% but once i start getting close to full RPMs it cuts back down to half and slows me down. I was running 8:1 oil for my first tank and then i had to eye out my second tank. (Maybe im still too oil rich?)

    This thing is brand new so im trying to figure stuff out,
    Thanks for reading.

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    its an 80 :jester: theres the issue there!

    ha ha, my opinion aside...tried a spring? for the clutch lever? can hook it on then down to one of the rear mount studs so it tends to pull the arm back into the hole :D doesnt have to be strong either... my pin went walkies years ago...

    um.screws too tight or did you strip just the top one at the rear which has a locknut on the other end?

    never mind. now youll know to get yourself a bit of 10mm(3/8) bar, and give each bolt a good whack on the head before trying to undo it... yes. whack. with a hammer. hard!

    or use an impact screwdriver. i find the bars easier. and sort of repairs phillips head screws after theyve been butchered... though these be flats...grrr. stupid flats!
  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Last edited: Oct 5, 2011
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    your boggig at w.o.t. usually means it's lean (air-fuel).
    there is a lot of tuning that can be dome to get rid of the bogging, but most of that is done by re-jetting the carb. (trial and error).
  5. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    mmmm, impact screwdriver :whistling:

    stupid trial and error!

    it should be in a book! defined!

    it isnt... :(

    i actually hate tuning an engine in :shout: so...tedious! and you burn your fingers! errrrrrr, that wasnt right :( again! :( and back you go, off with carb, fuel everywhere, jet out...grrrr.... ride...check plug...ow ow OW! :shout:

    seriously annoying!

    but once it is tuned in... :D

    worth it i guessssss.... :)

    oh. and an 8:1 oil mix! are you MAD!!!!!????? :jester:

    its a petrol engine, not a mini micro nitro engine! arrrrrgh!

    having that much oil is why its too lean.

    look at it like this; petrol is what makes you go. oil is lube.

    the jets the same size.

    it will flow so much petrol.

    add oil to petrol and the jet will flow slightly less petrol, as the oil now is part of the mixture. and also, now this is IMPORTANT! the oil/petrol mix is more VISCOSE...or thicker.

    so the flow is reduced EVEN MORE!!!!

    so, with 20:1...theres still a fair amount of oil. but at 8:1, the oil is making up a 9th (8+1=9...:rolleyes7: ) of the fuel flowing through the jet!!!!!

    thats a fair bit of oil ;)

    and as i mentioned...petrol is what makes you go....
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2011
  6. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    oh wow, i totally missed the fact that he was running it at 8:1.
    That's WAYYYYYYY too much oil!
    Headsmess is 100% correct...more oil makes the fuel-oil ratio more viscous (thicker) which will impede flow through the jet, which will actually make the air-fuel ratio leaner.
  7. shred_cred

    shred_cred New Member

    the manual said 8:1 for the first gallon so i did that, and afterwards i ran 36:1 or something around there. Much better but it's still breaking in a little.

    I also went into the throttle body and moved the washer down on that pin so there is less fuel going into the chamber and that seems to have helped. It was 3/4 open before, its now on the lowest pin at 1/4. I think i can still use a little more fuel though, so im going to try the middle option.

    Still havent fixed the Clutch, i actually stripped those screws by hand so you can tell they're cheap. But i put more tension on the cable-to-clutch arm and that alone seems to hold it in place for now. Rippppping!
    thanks for the input