Some Success But Also Intermittent Problem Cranking The Pedals.

[yuckfoo]

I took the bike out today and I got it started and was actually able to ride around a bit. The trouble with where I live is you can't go a block without having to stop for a stop sign or a red light. But every time it stalled I was able to get it started again quite easily. I have parts for a new extended manifold setup. With the current setup my leg keeps closing the choke as I pedal to get it started.

But there is also this recurring problem. Sometimes the pedals seem to be getting stuck and I can't pedal them past straight up and down without great effort. Then the bike will start and run a bit and the next time I don't have the pedal problem but then it comes back again. I thought I solved that problem when I ground down the inside of the drive sprocket cover where the chain was rubbing it.

Question: Forget for a moment that I have a shift kit. What would cause a non-shift-kit bike from binding like this? Another symptom of this problem is that you cannot easily roll the bike backwards even with the clutch in. I didn't record today as I was only going out to check for air leaks with my map torch. I couldn't detect any air leaks at the intake (either end) head gasket or base gasket.
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Side note: My chainguard broke the other day because the right side shift kit chain was loose. I glued it back on yesterday, then tightened the chain back up this morning before taking the bike out. At one point the chain came off the sprocket and broke the chainguard again. The sprocket is not designed (in my opinion) for a 415HD chain. I'm going to follow the lead of @Karl Snarl and put a regular bike chain on that side.

 

[Karl Snarl]

I took the bike out today and I got it started and was actually able to ride around a bit. The trouble with where I live is you can't go a block without having to stop for a stop sign or a red light. But every time it stalled I was able to get it started again quite easily. I have parts for a new extended manifold setup. With the current setup my leg keeps closing the choke as I pedal to get it started.

But there is also this recurring problem. Sometimes the pedals seem to be getting stuck and I can't pedal them past straight up and down without great effort. Then the bike will start and run a bit and the next time I don't have the pedal problem but then it comes back again. I thought I solved that problem when I ground down the inside of the drive sprocket cover where the chain was rubbing it.

Question: Forget for a moment that I have a shift kit. What would cause a non-shift-kit bike from binding like this? Another symptom of this problem is that you cannot easily roll the bike backwards even with the clutch in. I didn't record today as I was only going out to check for air leaks with my map torch. I couldn't detect any air leaks at the intake (either end) head gasket or base gasket.
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Side note: My chainguard broke the other day because the right side shift kit chain was loose. I glued it back on yesterday, then tightened the chain back up this morning before taking the bike out. At one point the chain came off the sprocket and broke the chainguard again. The sprocket is not designed (in my opinion) for a 415HD chain. I'm going to follow the lead of @Karl Snarl and put a regular bike chain on that side.

A shift kick bike will lock the crank if not at the right angle when starting. It essentially turns the pedal crank to a kick start. As for not rolling backwards, clutch is either to tight and dragging or your chains are loose or misaligned. It took me a few weeks to get used to the kick start. I can get it right away now. It should be a bit hard to kick or your compression is low. Its just a trade off of a shift kit. Bump start is easy, kick start takes learning when to start letting the clutch out. Standing and using your full weight on the pedal helps a lot.



Oh and my preheat method works wonders when the bike is out of tune. Really takes the friction of a cold start away. Easier to kick.

 

[yuckfoo]

A shift kick bike will lock the crank if not at the right angle when starting. It essentially turns the pedal crank to a kick start. As for not rolling backwards, clutch is either to tight and dragging or your chains are loose or misaligned. It took me a few weeks to get used to the kick start. I can get it right away now. It should be a bit hard to kick or your compression is low. Its just a trade off of a shift kit. Bump start is easy, kick start takes learning when to start letting the clutch out. Standing and using your full weight on the pedal helps a lot.



Oh and my preheat method works wonders when the bike is out of tune. Really takes the friction of a cold start away. Easier to kick.

Living on the third floor I really need the bike to roll backwards easily as that is how I get it up the steps. I pull it up on the back wheel, clutch locked in and drag it up the steps. If it doesn't roll freely it really becomes a case of doing more dragging than rolling. Since I plan on putting a normal chain on the right hand side I took the right hand side chain off downstairs. Naturally it rolled backwards very easily. Speaking of kick starting, I was able to do that several times today. I am thinking that my spark plug was too loose and that is where my air leak was coming from. The bike didn't run well (still needs to be tuned) but I was able to start it with almost no trouble today and multiple times as long as my leg didn't hit the choke lever. But it did seem pretty hot to me. Maybe I just don't know what to expect with these. I suppose they do get hot enough that you can't really touch the head or pipe for very long?

There is also a bit of a whirring sound when it runs which I had wondered at the time if it was the clutch out of adjustment.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Whirring could be intake sounds, maybe clutch. It should be hot enough you can hold you hand on it and count to 2 or 3. If its so hot you need to pull your hand away right away, your probably to lean. Different people have different pain feelings so you have to use that with a grain of salt. Shouldn't be running over 300 degrees( an actually less from what I hear here). At break in it can run a little warmer. Thats only for the first few though. All the extra friction goes away as rings set and bearings get an nice film of oil. Plug chops will tell you what's going on inside and if you are tuned right.

 

[yuckfoo]

Whirring could be intake sounds, maybe clutch. It should be hot enough you can hold you hand on it and count to 2 or 3. If its so hot you need to pull your hand away right away, your probably to lean. Different people have different pain feelings so you have to use that with a grain of salt. Shouldn't be running over 300 degrees( an actually less from what I hear here). At break in it can run a little warmer. Thats only for the first few though. All the extra friction goes away as rings set and bearings get an nice film of oil. Plug chops will tell you what's going on inside and if you are tuned right.

yeah it's definitely too hot to keep your hand on more than an instant.

 

[Karl Snarl]

To lean. Try two jets up and play with the needle. Make sure all tuning is done on a warmed up engine. Otherwise You'll end up to lean when it warms up. With a shift kit, you should rarely 4 stroke because the gears give the ability to maintain a constant load. Even if slightly to rich ( how i like jetting, perfect in winter, little rich in summer. Extra gas helps to cool) the gears give ya the ability to stop 4 stroking with a load.

 

[yuckfoo]

To lean. Try two jets up and play with the needle. Make sure all tuning is done on a warmed up engine. Otherwise You'll end up to lean when it warms up. With a shift kit, you should rarely 4 stroke because the gears give the ability to maintain a constant load. Even if slightly to rich ( how i like jetting, perfect in winter, little rich in summer. Extra gas helps to cool) the gears give ya the ability to stop 4 stroking with a load.

I'm already on a 70 jet with clip in the center. You think I should go to 72 or 74?

 

[Karl Snarl]

I'm already on a 70 jet with clip in the center. You think I should go to 72 or 74?

What's the plug saying?

 

[yuckfoo]

Aha! The blue arrows show the window I cut out a few weeks ago because the left side shift kit chain was binding there. The chain damn near chewed a hole in that section. I thought I had cured the problem at the time but it was binding again the other day. Took this cover off again, took the left side shift kit chain off, readjusted the chain tensioner arm and wheel, was all set to put it back on when I saw the area in the red circle. This spot is rubbing against the other side of the chain.

I'm learning that I have to see with different eyes than I'm used to seeing with. You have to be able to see everything sometimes, not just what you expect to see.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Aha! The blue arrows show the window I cut out a few weeks ago because the left side shift kit chain was binding there. The chain damn near chewed a hole in that section. I thought I had cured the problem at the time but it was binding again the other day. Took this cover off again, took the left side shift kit chain off, readjusted the chain tensioner arm and wheel, was all set to put it back on when I saw the area in the red circle. This spot is rubbing against the other side of the chain.

I'm learning that I have to see with different eyes than I'm used to seeing with. You have to be able to see everything sometimes, not just what you expect to see.

I think you are trying to ride a 415 on a 410 cog. Thats what my guess would be. You can use bike chain on that side too. I use 415/420 chain because I have it and really dont wanna gring my cogs. They are 415 cogs. A 415 will ride a little high on a 410 cog. A 410 will sit fine in a 415 cog.