Sprockets Space in Rag Joint & Chain Resistance

Alot of closely numbered jets like a #69 and a #70 for example will have the same dia but the oriface on the #69 will be a little longer to slow the flow rate through it!
 
Alot of closely numbered jets like a #69 and a #70 for example will have the same dia but the oriface on the #69 will be a little longer to slow the flow rate through it!
Some are categorized only by flow ratings which seems to make the most sense.
 
I am at 5400 ft. and rejet NT's with a #68. At 9000 you should get a #66 and a #64 to find the sweet spot.
Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.

I think Crassius has the right answer. You have to file out the center hole on the sprocket so that it can settle into the wheel. Files are cheap.
Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.

I suppose I'll make a run by Harbor Freight and pick up one of those ultra cheap rotary tools. Not good quality, but I imagine I'll hardly ever use it anyway, lol. That'll be nice too because I need to grind the corner of the left pedal crank off as it currently runs into the exhaust. I actually sat down with a multitool file yesterday and started trying to grind off that corner, then realized how utterly long that would take. :D
 
Yeah maybe too much wine last night :p. I barely even looked (easier to do when sober :rolleyes:) and found this chart:
Snapshot2009-12-2718-43-05.jpg

I never did have to order jets and assumed that the jet # and drill bit # were the same...I'm a big fan of solder and drilling em out :D.

I got one of them HF rotary tools and was barely able to finish a simple job before it broke, returned within a few hours lol.
 
Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.

Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.

I suppose I'll make a run by Harbor Freight and pick up one of those ultra cheap rotary tools. Not good quality, but I imagine I'll hardly ever use it anyway, lol. That'll be nice too because I need to grind the corner of the left pedal crank off as it currently runs into the exhaust. I actually sat down with a multitool file yesterday and started trying to grind off that corner, then realized how utterly long that would take. :D

a small round file will let you file the chain side hole in muffler flange up a bit higher and the hole on clutch side a bit lower - this allows you to turn the muffler away from the pedal
 
Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.

Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.

I suppose I'll make a run by Harbor Freight and pick up one of those ultra cheap rotary tools. Not good quality, but I imagine I'll hardly ever use it anyway, lol. That'll be nice too because I need to grind the corner of the left pedal crank off as it currently runs into the exhaust. I actually sat down with a multitool file yesterday and started trying to grind off that corner, then realized how utterly long that would take. :D
Hay Jeff. Before you take things all apart could you show us a pic. of the sprocket at a 90 deg angle to the last pic. I would like to see a pic. of how the hole in the sprocket is aligning to the bearing housing on the hub.
 
this allows you to turn the muffler away from the pedal
Ooooh that's a clever idea. I'll have to try that out!

I would like to see a pic. of how the hole in the sprocket is aligning to the bearing housing on the hub.
Sure!
bicycle5.jpg


So yeah, it's just resting right on that tapered part of the hub there. If the sprocket's inner diameter were 1 or 2 mm larger, it would probably fit right over it and rest against the spokes.
 
Cool. So your right. If it's on the taper and won't go completely over the housing to the spokes the open her up a little.
 
Sweet, sounds like I'll be doing that. I'll keep you folks updated!

Today I was pushing the bike around, at very low speeds on carpet, and even then I could see the entire rag joint twisting in its current configuration. Good thing I'm planning to fix that. :rolleyes:
 
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