specialized hardrock build questions

choate

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What's up everyone? I just got "motorbike fever" recently when a buddy of mine told me about these kits. I had no idea this even existed until now but I'm hooked. I was told the "best" style bike for this would be a beach cruiser style bike so I picked one up from Wal-Mart ($99.00 Hyper 26" beach cruiser). I'm not here to argue which style is best at all but upon joining this site and researching, I found I have in my garage what would be an awesome bike to build off of but I have a couple of questions. It's a 2003 Specialized Hardrock I bought for $60.00 last year. The bike is a solid bike with I believe 15 speeds and good front and rear caliper rim brakes that work well for what they are. I would like to keep them or use disk style if the cost can be done for say under $25.00. Here are my questions.

It looks like I'd need one of the extra wide mounts for the engine as my down frame is 2" wide so I think I have that figured out but there are cables that run on the bottom of the frame for the gears. How do I get around smashing/breaking those when I install the frame mount? Also, there is a cable that runs along the horizontal part of the frame for the rear brakes. Will the gas take mount smash that or what do guys/gals do to get around this problem?

I can post pics if need be but I figure most mountain bikes are like this and plenty of experienced builders here to help. Also, I plan on keeping the beach cruiser for a 2nd build :)
 
start by looking at a lot of pics here to see how all that has been done
 
I was told the "best" style bike for this would be a beach cruiser style bike so I picked one up from Wal-Mart ($99.00 Hyper 26" beach cruiser).
OK, so you are thinking starting with a cheap Wally World bike? Give it to a kid that will get maybe a years worth of pedal riding out of it before it fails and go with your other option...

I found I have in my garage what would be an awesome bike to build off of but I have a couple of questions.
It's a 2003 Specialized Hardrock I bought for $60.00 last year.

The bike is a solid bike with I believe 15 speeds and good front and rear caliper rim brakes that work well for what they are.
I would like to keep them or use disk style if the cost can be done for say under $25.00.

Specialized are tricky to fit a 2-stroke in...

2_SpecializedShifterL.jpg


..but not bad with the right front mount.
SBP Muffler clamp system.

Here are my questions.

It looks like I'd need one of the extra wide mounts for the engine as my down frame is 2" wide so I think I have that figured out but there are cables that run on the bottom of the frame for the gears.

How do I get around smashing/breaking those when I install the frame mount?
Also, there is a cable that runs along the horizontal part of the frame for the rear brakes.
Will the gas take mount smash that or what do guys/gals do to get around this problem?

The front engine frame mount will fit under the cables so no problem there.

What I did on this build to get around all the exposed cables on the top bar was mount the gas tank different...

2_SpecializedShifterR.jpg


...I put the gas tank brackets upside down on the top bar and then drilled and taped the frame to bolt the brackets to the frame, and then the tank to that bracket mount, cutting off the excess tanks mount bolt threads.

No cable inference with any kit mounting or cables.

As for your front derailleur, rip it and it's shifter off and move your rear rotary derailleur shifter to the left side with your clutch lever.

If you want to change front chain rings do it by hand, but usually there is a best sprocket for your needs you stick with.

Hope that helps.
 
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Yes that is VERY helpful KC! Thank you very much! Not sure what year that bike is but it looks nearly identicle to mine. I'll post a picture later of mine. I've already started to modify it for motor biking (cut the seat post down) and will probably get a different cruiser style seat and maybe new handlebars. Funny thing about the front derailleur needing to be removed, is the cover is broken already so good to know I don't need the thing at all. I had to look up what a "derailleur" on a side note haha! I think I have it all now but one thing if you could clarify, and also some interesting tid bits of my interpretation of your very excellent instructions below.

So on using the muffler mount as the front engine mount, you mention the mount goes under the cable with no problems. You mean the mount goes over the cable and allows it to function without touching it right? I was thinking I might have to dremel down the bracket some but should be ok there it sounds like. Also I think I have the gas tank mounting under control now, just need a tap set. Btw at first I thought you meant you taped it, as in duct taped it. Had to re-read and think that over several times until I realized you meant you drilled a hole into the frame and tapped it for threads. Don't think I'd take the advise of someone telling me to duct tape my gas tank down. Again, thanks for your help! That was exactly what I needed
 
Oh and also, the Hyper Beach Cruiser hasn't been opened or assembled yet so it's going back to Wally World for a refund
 
Btw guys, that is the new steath 5hp small 1 stroke engine in the bottle holder. PM me for more details.
 
KC upon looking at this more, you moved everything to the right side on this bike? i guess I just need to buy the kit and start tinkering but I'm trying to figure out problems before I start
 
KC upon looking at this more, you moved everything to the right side on this bike? i guess I just need to buy the kit and start tinkering but I'm trying to figure out problems before I start
It's not precisely moved to say, but it's been upgraded with a jackshaft, which simply takes the normal single speed drivetrain and converts it using the multi gear cassette and derailleur, he's using a sick bike parts kit in the photo.

You install that and you can use a rear disk brake no problem, and you have the great multi gear drivetrain that changes the whole riding experience for the best. No more engine burning hills you need to pedal with, and the flats let you run right to the end of the gears for nice top speeds.

When he says under he means between the cable and the frame, which kinda looks like above the cable if the cable is on the underside of the frame if you think of it in litteral perspective of distance from the ground. Basically don't clamp cables, they don't work as nice when you do.

You don't have to use a tap to make tapped threads in the frame, if I'm not going to structurly bolt something on I use a self tap screw, just drill a slightly smaller hole and use the self tapping sheet metal screws to finish the job. Since the screw is under the tank it won't likely shake loose, especially with a layer of tire or innertube rubber sitting between the two.

Have fun good luck.
 
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You don't have to use a tap to make tapped threads in the frame, if I'm not going to structurly bolt something on I use a self tap screw, just drill a slightly smaller hole and use the self tapping sheet metal screws to finish the job. Since the screw is under the tank it won't likely shake loose, especially with a layer of tire or innertube rubber sitting between the two.

Have fun good luck.
Rivnuts?
 
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