Wheels Spoke breakage

i think it's the speed that's the main factor, the spokes are flexing way faster than they were to designed to...

that's just my thoughts...i always check my spokes, have 2 on the rear wheel that just love to go loose on me. the rest of the bike is fine.

edit: the pedal chainguard don't like to stay tight either, now that i think on it...
 
I switched my rear wheel, to put a new shiny steel rim on, for the ride to the coast.

I'm taking step by step pictures, to show "how to build the flat proof tire", and step one is zip tie the spokes.

GEBE is sending one of their high end, Made in America-Wired in Switzerland wheels, but I didn't think UPS would get here in time, may leave spur of the moment.

The main reason 16 gauge would snap on the GEBE installation of the drive belt ring is the ring wasn't centered properly, slight extra stress where the "bulge" occured, then high speeds and "SNAP", right at the contact point.

I imagine high speed would always stress a slightly bent or slightly loose spoke, on any type of system. including friction.

Since the spokes have the "best" arrangement right at the time of purchase (my bike shop guy checks them before sale, and GEBE gets them true within a micron or two before shipping) my ZIP TIE connection has the best chance to keep them true at step one, before I do any other work on the wheel.
 
Clearly experience speaks more loudy Bamabikeguy, but I don't see how the zip ties would help a healthy wheel that much? As long as your tension is proper then I don't see where the zip tie trick would come in. I've heard of people doing this to eliminate noise at the cross points, but is this just to help the wheel stay true/strong if the tension has grown off over time and on the road?
 
Jerry,

Here's that thread about spokes and the thinking behind 12 gauge.

Zip-ties are a variation of those BMX racing/mountain bikers, who weld/solder the spokes.

The moment after you zip tie the front wheel, you can actually FEEL a more solid ride. My idea is that at our speeds, tied spokes lessens the chance of them bending or loosening.

21_collage_10.jpg
 
Definitely gonna ziptie my spokes...they are so rusty I can even tighten them. They are not too loose, I was just checking them as I installed the sprocket yesterday and they seemed like they are gonna give me trouble after awhile.
 
I sprayed them with PB Blaster penetrating oil, gonna give 'em hell later.
It's pouring today, so I'm out of luck for working on the bike today though..... :(
 
The best bet is a hub mounted sprocket and heavy duty spokes. While your at it get a hub with a drum brake and you've killed two birds with one stone.
 
Hi fellas .
I use a belt and pulleys from a jack haft to rear wheel but was having same problem with broken spokes.
Have a look at some of my pics in gallery.
mysolution was to garner some road signs that were no longer in use from the city works yard.
These are aluminum. I cut to fit tightly inside of bicycle rim allowing for the concave'
I afixed this plate to the rim by cutting and slideing 1 inch wide,(curver to match the rim)and approx 6 inch long strips of same alunminum threw the the spokes right up against the rim.
Had to bend a little to work in but they are actually use the spoke tensioner screws as a mounting point for the plate compared to the spoke itself in traditional mountings.
I use half inch long , quarter inch bolts to fasten
i bolt my pulley' to this plate with no tension or grief to the spokes.
Havent broken a spoke in over 6 months and ride 7 days aweek, average 20 th 30 miles daily.
this solution has worked perfectly with no drawbacks i can thing of
Even looks pretty cool.

~Haggard~
 
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