Spokes upgrade

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#21
I still feel the compression, as well as hearing the engine spin.
As I still don't have the wheel on, I can't check. But I'm pretty sure it would spin it, since I tried to remove the chain with the clutch arm not pulled in, and I heard the engine spin over.
 


Jag

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#22
I would look in the pull start cover to see if anything is rubbing with it tightened. I wouldn’t want to keep it pulled off because that’s compartment needs to be pretty sealed for the magneto
 
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#23
Yeah. I'll report back in some time. My skin peeled off and it's pretty uncomfortable, so I'll check in an hour.

What am I looking for? Should I use the washer somewhere (From the magneto?)
 

Jag

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#24
Lol ok. I’m putting off getting a pull start just because I don’t want to have to deal with the compression, I’ve built my engine and it has a lot of compression. And the issue with pedals hitting it.
 
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#26
Yeah that would be easier. I opened it back up. Full of metal shavings. Not a clue where they came from, no visible marks anywhere.

The thing that bolts on the magneto magnet part, that has the 2 different screws on it, wich has the 2 metal arms held by spring (So it mostly spins 1 way) had the 2 bolts on the arms very lose, I could hand tighten it about 2 full rotations, then an other one with a wrench.

I'll put it back in a min, just eating lunch.
 
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#27
OMG you guys are funny,... did you seriously get a blister from trying to pull the cord on your engine, LOL anyways.
First of all new chain tensioner. It needs to be correct every time and if it's not correct you need to make it correct.
Plenty of YouTube videos and discussions about chain tensioners. I've had my problems with them myself but I've learned. If you check all your nuts and bolts every 10 miles you should be okay.
For an easier way to start your engines try flooding the carb with fuel. It is started like you normally would but if you're getting blisters from pulling the cord to start it, need to start doing more work with your hands or wear gloves.
 
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#28
It was not the problem with my hands. I have installed it incorrectly, and the thing got stuck. I kept trying to pull it as strong as I could- 10 times or over. And last pull I let go of the thing it ripped my skin. Don't make fun of me that I'm "weak" or anything like that. It was installed incorrectly, it didn't rotate, and I tried to get it unstuck, with pulling as hard as I can. Well I got half the metal chipped off at least.

It's not a blister, just at one place the skin peeled off (Low quality plastic grip, has little parts sticking out that ripped my skin.)
 

LewieBike

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#29
Note that of these CG engines, the clutch shaft output sprocket is made out of round on most of them, so your chain is always in a state of rapid tightening and loosening, this effectively hammers on the tensioner and after a while, if you don't check the tensioner's clamps for being tight, you're gonna have the whole tensioner twist into the spokes. With the way the tensioner is designed on these, it would be a product recall if it was any other consumer product.

The problem with the 'CNC' spring tensioners is that as the engine unloads from acceleration and from going downhill, the upper run of chain can run slack, and that's the perfect conditions for the chain to bunch up in the sprocket cover area and break your engine's castings and lock the rear wheel up at the same time.

The best tensioners are the ones that bridge over the left side seat and chainstays in an arc. Second best would be to drill and tap the stock tensioner and left chainstay and blue locktite a 5mm allen head bolt through the tensioner clamp into the left chainstay.

Or you can keep on breaking spokes and riding a deathtrap.
 
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#31
Last time I had blisters, I was squeezing a wrench, and the thing I was squeezing broke, so the wrench closed and clipped half my palm.

Right now I'm installing the new wheel as well as the cleaned chain, wich will both be done tomorrow, just like the pull start.
The new spokes are a lot stronger.
 
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#33
I meant pliers, not wrench.
Why you laughing?

I'm now having problems with the chain "slipping?"
The ones that I drive with my leg engine. It's making a sound like it's skipping gears or in between gears. I'll check that out tomorrow, it's late and I was cleaning my bike frame and everything today (Dissassemble everything, clean, reassemble...)
 
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#34
Might be the chain guard, has to be tightened, I know that when I thought I was in 7th Gear I was actually in first and I was trying to Peddle to assist the motor and I've thrown a chain off on the pedaling side.

I was just laughing at yall's conversation it was funny and I was smoking little bit of green when I was reading it.

LoL
 
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#35
Alright then...

I've fixed the chain slipping problem (it was 1-2 parts where the chain actually touched the sprocket, it was slipping)
She's going great again, pull start fixed, easy to pull now, still can't get it to start with it tho no matter if I keep pulling like an idiot for 10 minutes
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
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#36
Try flooding carb until fuel spills out air filter. Then try starting. I flood my carb before I even try. But I dont have a pull start. Just a simple pedal start 49cc basics... Lol pic of my bike in avatar.
 
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#37
Do I press the primer (Brass button thing next to idle screw) to flood the engine?

Also wouldn't it just be harder? Or just use the choke maybe? Then I'd have to empty it or something....
 
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#38
Do I press the primer (Brass button thing next to idle screw) to flood the engine?

Also wouldn't it just be harder? Or just use the choke maybe? Then I'd have to empty it or something....
Press the brass push thing next to idle screw a few times ... Until fuel drips out air filter... Should Be easier to start. Mine usually starts in one or two full pedals immediately after releasing clutch lever... Then just throttle when you hear it starting...
flooding the carburetor just makes it easier to start without the effort. Carry extra rags to wipe off fuel and dirt around area fuel drips.... I clean my bike every 20 to 30 miles
I'm not familiar with choke. I just leave it in the down position. Up position kills engine.
 
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#39
Not for me. I just have heavy 4 stroking with choke, and a very easy start.
I also have to pedal 2-3x only. I usually don't use the throttle though. I'll try it tomorrow, if it helps! Thanks for the advice!
 

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