Note that of these CG engines, the clutch shaft output sprocket is made out of round on most of them, so your chain is always in a state of rapid tightening and loosening, this effectively hammers on the tensioner and after a while, if you don't check the tensioner's clamps for being tight, you're gonna have the whole tensioner twist into the spokes. With the way the tensioner is designed on these, it would be a product recall if it was any other consumer product.
The problem with the 'CNC' spring tensioners is that as the engine unloads from acceleration and from going downhill, the upper run of chain can run slack, and that's the perfect conditions for the chain to bunch up in the sprocket cover area and break your engine's castings and lock the rear wheel up at the same time.
The best tensioners are the ones that bridge over the left side seat and chainstays in an arc. Second best would be to drill and tap the stock tensioner and left chainstay and blue locktite a 5mm allen head bolt through the tensioner clamp into the left chainstay.
Or you can keep on breaking spokes and riding a deathtrap.